Wiring Gang Boxes

Ximat

Member
Does anyone use Wiring Gang Boxes for thier products like their keypads, speaker, Wireless expander, etc... Im curious if this would allow future work easier, or overkill, or what.

Im also curious if you use low voltage gang boxes which are open to the back, or high voltage which are actuall boxes.


Thanks!

X
 
I have used both and in my friend's house, just used blank cover trim plates until the box location was needed. This saves having to coil the wire to a nail and then poking through the drywall trying to find it later.

The only problem can come when your sensor is smaller than the gang box. You can easily custom the blank mounting plate to accomodate though.
 
IMHO, it depends on the application. If using flush speakers (ELK) I use boxes, MPLS's or LV rings. For KP's , I usually prefer to mount to sheetrock, since most of the times, it's easier to center the unit above the switches rather than trying to monkey around with a box that may or may not line up (or scab in wood). Also, retro boxes and rings tend to stick out from the wall, not allowing the units to sit flush with the walls.

I can't say I do the same with system boards, but the Elk enclosures do mount to them nicely.

PIR's are a "never" and GBD's depend on the unit, but I usually use G-techs, which are a lot smaller than a single gang plate. Smoke detectors in new construction are an always. I tend to use boxes only in "exposed work" where I'm dealing with studs and joists and no mounting areas, but retrofits are a different story. A lot of time, especially when devices aren't chosen prior during the rough, a gang box makes it more difficult since the footprint is already chosen, so if a smaller unit is chosen or the dimensions are different than the gang box, you're stuck.

Conduit and systems are a different game, such as installing KAM's (Elk) and readers.
 
I run more conduit than most in my systems.

Generalizations, but anywhere the wiring is subject to physical damage or compromise, conduit or metal wiremold is involved, which brings me up to 1-1 1/4" EMT that can be bent using a hand bender. Anything larger you are looking at using a hydraulic bender. If I am only working for asthetics, then panduit or wiremold is involved. If I have a large mass of wires and weather a concern, barring extreme sunlight, I am looking at grey sched. 40 PVC.

As an example, if I have to bring a wire down from ceiling level in a basement to a floor for something like a flood detector, I am looking at 1/2" EMT. If I am tying in a WSV, then I am looking at 1/2" EMT to a box and then I switch to sealtite or greenfield for a whip to the unit itself.
 
Thanks for the input!

I have determined im going to affix most devices to gang boxes... I.E. my speakers, wireless expander, keypads, CO2's, Smokes, Etc... I got to looking as well, and I cannot find a company that sells a single gang, old work box that will accept ENT adaptors. I'd like to use the ENT to keep the wire secure/safe in the wall.

Any input on that?
 
Carlon makes "mud rings' that accept trade conduit fittings. Arlington as well. I doubt you'll find them in the big box "blue" and "orange" stores.

Unless you can foresee the need to pull in cabling after the fact as technologies become obsolete (video distribution, network, etc.) and construction doesn't dictate the need for flex (concrete, adobe, etc.) I wouldn't spend the money for flex. Also, I wouldn't be surprised if your AHJ does not allow it unless more steps are taken regarding firestopping with it.
 
At least out here, home depot carries the mudrings with a tab for the flex to snap into... it's open backed, not a closed box.

For my last house I had a bank where a lot of wires came into one place - basically 4 x 4-gang boxes along a wall... I used the normal blue gang boxes and drilled my own hole that was the perfect size for the flex snap connector - it worked beautifully.
 
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