Zones Not Used

I powered up my M1G today, essentially for a bench test. The keypad was recognized but then I had a number of "Zone violated" messages (11 zones that are not connected to anything) plus "Area 1"/"Output 2 Trouble" messages (see thumbnails).

To address the Zone messages, do I need to short the connections on the panel that are not used?

Output 2 is for a "horn" in my attic (currently not hooked up). So the system either needs a horn connected or some other problem exists. Is there a way to run the system without a horn or is there another potential issue?

I assume "Area 1" refers to defined locations, by default all zones/outputs fall under area 1 until I define others. Is my assumption here correct?
 

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As for the input zones, you should be able to disable them in ElkRP. That should prevent those warnings.

As for OUTPUT 2, that is a supervised output so I had to put a resistor across OUTPUT2 until I was finally ready to wire up the speaker. Check the install manual but I think that would take care of the OUTPUT error condition.
 
2nd DotNetDog - just grab one of the included resistors and put it across the out2 terminals. Remember to set it to Voltage when you hook up the horn and not Speaker.
 
Thanks DotNetDog & Work2Play. You guys are better than the installation manual. I did not find anything about this in that document!

I should fly you two to the Northwest to get my system running!
 
In looking at my horn, it is a two tone (3 wire) siren (6-12VDC). One pair of wires = yelp and another pair is a steady horn (not sure which I would use). However, when I put my ohm meter across the wires, both pairs are totally open.

I could put a 2200-Ohm resistor across the pair, but I'm not sure if that would render the siren useless. I can try this approach and see if it works.
 

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Yelp and negative. Output on the panel would be set to voltage, not speaker. If connected, no supervisiory resistor would be needed.

You may be reading M-ohms and your meter might not see it properly, as you would be reading the driver internal to the siren and not the voice coil.
 
OK. Hooked up the horn for "yelp". Same Output 2 Trouble message shows up on my keypad. Next time I'll add a resistor across the wires to see if I can get past that error message.
 
Yeah it depends on the horn... in my case, without the resistor was making the siren run constantly at a very low volume - just enough to hear at night; the resistor cleared that up. Later I switched to a speaker... I'll spare the details, but I prefer how speakers work with the Elk over a siren - has to do with the siren driver and keeping things in sync, and making voltage calculations easier.
 
That would work.

Speakers are generally used because more can be installed (with attention paid to observed load and ohm's law) without having to consider the total voltage draw of all attached loads....not to mention they're cheaper.

You also have to observe the rules of 10X when considering volume and an amplifier/audio. To make a speaker twice as loud, for example, on a 1W amp, the amplifier would need to supply 10W.
 
Thanks for the tip Work2Play. Something like this horn speaker? I would imagine a speaker opens the possible of custom alarm sounds compared to a siren.
Indeed and ELK makes devices for this sort of thing - for example:

http://www.elkproducts.com/_webapp_2981388/ELK-120_Multi-Channel_Recordable_Voice_and_Siren_Driver_module
 
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