Total Home Surge Protector

That Eaton device is the same one I've been looking at. I've been putting this purchase off for too long.

http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/18245-whole-house-surge-protection-and-inteon-compatibility/#entry151411

Just bringing this post back up to the top.  I have noticed a few friends have had issues with lightning lately.
 
Topic is a good read and was sort of buried.

Anyone know (or have an educated guess) on the statistics as to how rare/common the occurrences are where even excellent grounding and whole house surge suppression prove insufficient (e.g. due to lightning or similar)?  We all have different risk tolerances, but I'm just generally wondering whether the odds of damage are reduced by 50% or 80% or 90% or 95% or 99% or 99.99%?  Is there any way of knowing, either through statistics or other means?

No on the statistics. 
 
Here just recently (last week) had another power issue.  Not really related to lightning; but rather an on and off power thing (1-2 minutes).
 
My outside HVAC unit capacitor started to burst (dual capacitor).  It messed up the starting of the AC compressor (it wouldn't start).
 
The unit is a bit less than 2 years old.
 
What was explained to me was that the capacitor burst due to an on and off (quickly of power) and the compressor kicking on too soon.
 
Now this happened some 2-3 times in a one hour span last week.  AC compressor quit working.  Well it would start then fail.
 
Googling issue indicated a bad compressor, contactor or capacitor.
 
I've never seen this before.  (old zoned home with 2 units worked fine for almost 30 years).
 
I have the Omnistat hooked up to the HAI OPII panel.  The defaults are set to the startup of the AC.  I am wondering if I should adjust these times?

What is it about the power cycling that causes the capacitors to fail?  Do they overheat or something?  Capacitors and heat often don't seem to get along well.  Maybe you could use your automation to add progressively longer delay if there was already a recent startup.
 
Either that, or replace the capacitors with equivalent ones that are rated to handle higher heat.  Maybe military grade capacitors would survive better?

Would you choose capacitors that were built to spec by the lowest bidder? 

I think most programmable thermostats have a built in delay for cooling on power up to prevent "short cycling". If the compressor has pressure built up and tries to restart it is very hard on it. It may not start and trip the overtemp protector several times before the pressure reduces enough to allow it to start. I am not sure what effect this has on the capacitors - I haven't heard of short cycling being an issue for them but I have limited experience with this. Short cycling protection is to prevent damage from short drops of the utility power. The problematic short off cycles could also be caused by someone adjusting the set point.

This feature has been a standard thing on most commercial and high end residential programmable thermostats for years so I am guessing even the cheaper ones have that now.

As I recall the delay is about 15 minutes.

Thanks guys.
 
The way it was explained to me is that the capacitor became dysfunctional due to short cycling relating the quick on and off power during a storm or some sort of surge.
 
The Omnitstat has been left at defaults. (set points et al).
 
Yup; never seen this before.  I saved the capacitor and will post a picture of it here.   It only shows a bulging of the top of it. 

Curiosity question:
 
Helping an automation peer with the installation (or not) of a similiar Eaton #160 TVSS as I documented in this thread.
 
We did a skype video call yesterday and I looked at his panel via the video.
 
It came with the 18" pigtails.
 
The top of the fuse panel has free breaker spots.  (well 3 - 2 on one side and 1 on the other side).  The fuse panel is between two 2X4's (flush). 
 
The neutral bus bar is on the bottom of the fuse panel.   The ingress of power is also on the bottom of the panel. (main 2 phases of electrical feed).  (mine is on the top of the panel).
 
This is what has been looked at for installation.  It appears that it can only be installed on the top or the bottom of the fuse panel.
 
1 - Installation of the PTX160 on the top of the fuse panel.  The issue here is that the neutral pigtail is 18" long and will not extend to the neutral bus bar on the bottom of the fuse panel.  I do not think you can extend the neutral pigtail at all (not sure though).
2 - Installation of the PTX160 on the bottom of the fuse panel.  Here the pigtails will be fine but all of the fuses will need to be moved up a notch.
3 - abandon efforts for installation of the PTX160 and get a smaller TVSS.
 
Top installation example drawing - which will not work because neutral bar is on the bottom of fuse panel unless neutral can be extended.
 

I moved my breakers accordingly to mount the SPD as close to the mains as possible, while keeping the pigtails as straight and short as possible.

Going through the side panels can also be an option.  7/8" hole for a 1/2" conduit fitting.

Going through the side panels can also be an option.  7/8" hole for a 1/2" conduit fitting.

Click to expand...

 
So just cut out a section of drywall next to the 2X4, drill 7/8" hole through the 2X4 and mount the PTX adjacent to the 2X4; eh?
 
Guessing that maybe the 18" pigtails would reach to the neutral bar and two breakers this way maybe?
 
Current hole in the PTX160 case is on the bottom (or top).  He would need to put a 90 degree bend conduit in place for this.
 
My PTX160 case was deeper than my panel such that I had to fit 2 90's in place for the cabling (which I read was not correct).
 
The back of his fuse panel is attached to a masonry wall.  Looks like the PTX160 mounted on the masonry wall would still be extending past the drywall.  The hole in the PTX160 case is closer to the front than the rear of the case such that he might have to utilize 2 90's too in such an endeavor.

I'd just move the breakers to allow for it at the bottom.  It seems worse than it is - only takes a couple minutes.

Thanks guys!
 
Decision is split right now relating to going in from the side or the bottom.  I have suggested to make a few measures and pencil in on the drywall what looks OK.  Whichever way it is installed the depth of the PTX160 is more than that of the fuse panel; so it will stick out a bit.
 
I installed mine at eye level maybe mostly just to see the LED status indicators on the device? 
 
Peer's PTX160 has the more functional status indicator (think it also shows voltage).
 
I did move breakers to install the tandem 30 AMP breaker for the TVSS.
 
I am adding another surge protector outside by the AC unit on just the AC unit circuits (for additional protection again surges?) in the next week or so.

Ordered a Supco SCM150 Surge Protector for AC stuff yesterday.   The peer that I am helping purchased one for $20 on Ebay.  Best I could find was $40 on Amazon. 
 
SCM150--SURGE ARRESTOR 100k WITH LED
Protects electro-mechanical equipment from potentially damaging power surges and lightning strikes
Features/Benefits

• Weatherproof housing
• Easy installation at disconnect or panel
• Warranty registration required within 15 days of install @ www.supco.com
• Does not protect against over current nor dropped neutrals
• Does not protect against continuous over voltage
• Does not protect against DIRECT lightning strikes
• Green LED to indicate surge protection is present
• 3-year connected equipment guarantee from date of installation
• Limited lifetime warranty
• UL® & cUL® Listed

 
http://www.supco.com/web/supco_live/products/SCM150.html
 
I am DIYing the install and will take pictures and attach it to this post.
 
Here is a you tube video for the installation.