Driveway sensors.

Very nice!
 
Please continue.
 
Here used too much cement on the footing some 6 feet with iron rods coming up into the brick structure and the base sort of elevated into the brick some 2 feet or so.  I knew nothing about the DIY and a neighbor was mentoring me a bit.
 
What is the material molded tinted cement stuff?  Is it using a mixture of epoxy and cement?
 
Personally like that whole cement / stone thing.  Cousin in EU has a home in the mountains (very old) with something that looks like huge boulders for walls with windows set in more than a foot on either side.  A bit much I guess but the little "house" was built in the 1700's.  He did modernize it a bit.  Beds were in the stone walls; never seen anything like it before.  Same family generations of owners.
 
Just a thought, but remember if you're installing probes, plan a big enough pipe for them to sit inside...while they're robust, sooner or later they'll probably need replacement and you don't want to have to dig or cut the driveway to do this.
 
The best option would be to have a pipe that goes to a handhold box side to side on the drive, but barring that, I'm sure you could use a doohickey to push the probe inside the pipe(s).
 
You can just add a tint to the water during mixing. Downside being it's very hard to get exact colours from batch to batch. So I will have to build 4 molds. I'm looking at different edging form inserts. You can get designer edges to line your mould with. I like the "chiseled" look, but might be a bit much with the stone.

I'll run an oversized capped pipe under driveway. Since I'm below grade anyway it will be easy to rough in. I also plan to run tubing in driveway for future heating. Just because it will be cheap and easy to do now.
 
Make sure you pressurize the piping and put a gauge on it....especially if you consider connecting the heating at a later date.
 
Yup here went to one of those marble and stone places.  I had the caps done with the "chiseled" edges.  Very heavy and it did take two of us to put them on the brick.  I did make a mistake in measurements and didn't notice until the caps were on.  I was maybe 1.5" off.  That said I had one redone.  I wanted an even overhang and one side of the cap was even with the brick and that was cut smooth (no chiseled look) but the the "evenness" of the other three sides were off.
 
I ended up being there and physically putting the probe where I wanted it myself.  
 
Was going to run SS endless tubing, but that's could mess with sensor. Gotta look at Pex, and run water through it while paving. Or convert driveway to all poured. Gotta talk to contractor in spring
 
Curious what you are going to do with the driveway?
 
Are you looking at cement, paver blocks or stamped cement?
 
In the old house I ended up removing the old driveway and building a new garage.  That said I asked the cement folks about longitivity of a cement driveway.
 
They said if I added an extra bag mix then it would last longer; I did.  It was fine after 20 years.  No cracks. 
 
Concurrently also did a paver block driveway with old Chicago street brick.  That too did last some 20 years.
 
I have read about issues with stamped driveways. 
 
Currently my front walk is all cement and around 10 years old.  It is falling apart.  Driveway is asphalt.
 
My walkway is going to be cement. It will run from the front steps, along the garage, across the front of the garage, and around the other side to the man door.

The remainder of driveway is scheduled to be asphalt.

I just bought home, and the driveway/walkway won't be completed till spring.

I know using salt and some de-ice spreads eat concrete. Though I'm not sure my best route, as I, and my co-workers drive heavy trucks. I have a 2012 Chev 3500HD single rear wheel, and I roll the roads at 10-12,000lbs depending on the day. So don't want ruts or low spots on driveway.

I also plan to run De-Kor Dek Dots in the walkway, and possibly down the sides of driveway in a curb
 
This is an interesting topic.  Any ideas for an existing driveway?  I do have 2x2x4 foot stone pillars approx. 8 feet from the street in place but the drive as already paved and we get a healthy dose of winter weather annually.
 
Here I suggested just trenching along the driveway.  Really initially suggested both sides for LV and HV stuff.
 
Initially adjacent to the garage some 5 feet of cement; then extended a bit.  Driveway was kept to gravel with maintenance every 5 years or so.
 
Curious if you are going to do anything special to the asphalt driveway?
 

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Nothing is planned for driveway. Was going to run tubing for heating just because. It's just standard black, rolled flat.
 
Here in the midwest I've noticed that the asphalt driveway has held up well.  That and comparing it to cement nearby driveways has held up better.  Its about 12 years old now and its been sealcoated just about every two years.  I did have one issue fixed that was much gravel had been on one side with very little topsoil along some 3 feet adjacent.  No matter how much watering the grass would dry up.  In the latter part of this last summer here dug out that side and removed much of the gravel filling it with just black dirt and flipping the grass over it (which was originally all sod).  It did better in the latter half of the summer. 
 
Yeah; might as well run tubing for heating as its easy to do with nothing in place.  In old home father had with paver blocks he put a drain / cement "gulley" adjacent to the garage running the length of the garage doors and put grating over it.  It held up very well over the years.
 
Friend (pictures above) ran tubing also; none of it is currently connected to anything; but it is in place today.  He did same for his basement which remains unfinished at this time.  Well the home is sort of big for the two of them and their dog; kids are gone; thus using mostly just the great room in the house to watch television.
 
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