Dryer buzzer automation?

[swaggy]

We have an old(er) gas dryer that has a very annoying and loud buzzer that comes on at the end of every cycle. I would like to replace it with something a little more user friendly. I have an OmniPro controlling a Nuvo whole house audio system so ideally I would like to:

1) make an overhead announcement on the speakers when the dryer cycle has finished
2) send an email alert when the dryer cycle has finished

I would say #2 is more important than #1. Looking at online schematics, the buzzer looks to be an OEM Whirlpool buzzer that runs off 120VAC. I suspect I will need a 120VAC relay but looking for some input here on how to further integrate. I do have a CAI webcontrol at my disposal so I suppose I could use that to fire off an email, just not sure about how to integrate the relay with the webcontrol board.

Thanks

 

[Rupp]

You could use the CRMagnet to detect the power spike. This is what I used for my washing machine in this post.
http://board.homeseer.com/showthread.php?t=128756&highlight=CRmagnets

 

[tmbrown97]

If you were working with a new dryer and didn't want to tamper with it, I'd go Rupp's route and detect the current turning on, then off again later. Since that's not the case for you, I'd use a 120VAC relay (after confirming that it really is a 120V buzzer) and hook that to either a zone on your HAI, or as a contact closure on the CAI board - or even a contact closure on a wireless security sensor (if you're set up for wireless). Seems like the simplest thing you could do.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I did this EXACT method for monitoring my dryer. I just removed that buzzer and wired in the coil of a 120 VAC (coil) 'ice cube' relay and use the normally opened contacts to my Elk M1.

One caveat: I had this running for about seven years and I used to monitor those contacts with my Ocelot's SECU16i inputs. I noticed that the relay did not have a long enough 'on' time and wired in an Elk 960 Timer delay relay to 'extend' that trigger to my Ocelot.

I just kept that system in place when I installed the Elk M1 so I don't know if a 'fast loop' non-alarmed setup would work with an Elk M1 without the Elk-960 in place. I know you don't have an Elk M1, just giving you some examples so you can translate to your current setup.

I would at least try it as those relays are cheap.

I just removed the dryer's back panel of the console, located the buzzer and removed it. There was plenty of room to install an ice cube relay with its socket.

I think something like this should work fine for you (just did a real quick search as I have no idea what I actually used since this was so long ago. I swear I posted a pic of this setup but I can't seem to find it)

Relay
Socket

There are many other options, but this one was the easiest as it had screw terminals and was easy to secure in the back of the dryer with some sheet metal screws.

If you need any help, let me know! I've had this system working for many years.

 

[swaggy]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and thanks BSR for the tip. The relay that you linked to seems to have a 20ms pulse width (if I am reading the data sheet correctly) and from what I remember, the zones on the OmniPro need at least a few hundred ms so the ELK-960 sounds like the solution to that problem. Did you have yours wires like in diagram #11 here:
http://www.elkproducts.com/_literature_63600/ELK-960_Hookup_Examples

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I had it wired more like something shown below I believe. There are a LOT of ways to wire this in. Also, you can use any type of 'one shot' device (you don't have to use the Elk-960). I just happen to have the Elk-960 and that type of relay/socket around my home at the time.

I do like the Elk-960 as it is very robust and versatile though.

 

[apostolakisl]

If you want to use your cai board instead of pulling wire all the way back to your security panel, it is quite easy to do. However, you will need an ethernet connection for the cai board which may be more work than running a wire back to the panel. Also, a wireless bridge will do the trick, but now it gets pricier.

You use the 5v output pin on the cai and run that to the common on your relay. Then run a wire from the NO contact on the relay to one of the digital inputs on the CAI board. Then write a program to send you an email. I used ram1 as a block to prevent it from sending email after email while the buzzer is on. It will only send 1 email per buzzer regardless of how long the buzzer stays on (or in your case how long the relay stays on).

START
TSTEQ IP1 1
CALLSUB DRYMAIL
TSTEQ IP1 0
SET RAM1 0
END

DRYMAIL:
TSTEQ RAM1 1
RET
SET RAM1 1
EMAIL EM1
RET

 

[swaggy]

BSR - what type of fuse is that in your diagram?

Lou - for the email alert, I think the CAI is the easiest solution. For the overhead voice announcement on the Nuvo system, I think I need to get the HAI 10A11 Voice Module for the Omnipro? Either way, I would probably just run a cat5 to the laundry room as it's on the first floor and I can easily get to it from the basement.

 

[Ishmael]

I use a Brultech ECM-1240 energy monitor to monitor a number of circuits in my house, including the washer and dryer. I have CQC monitor the wattage of each circuit, and when it drops below the right threshold for the right amount of time, it can announce that the cycle is complete. I have an Elk keypad in the laundry room, and I've assigned a function key to enable/disable voice announce when the washer completes and when the dryer completes.

For a cheaper solution in the same direction, although I haven't worked with the CAI, depending on the access to your electrical panel, you might be able to just install a CT (current transformer) on each circuit and them into your CAI for monitoring, giving you an "energy monitor light" solution to the problem.

Just food for thought.

Chris

 

[swaggy]

Thanks Chris.

The Brultech may be a bit overkill for this application so I think the CAI along with the relay suggested by BSR above would be the low cost solution for me.

 

[apostolakisl]

Thanks Chris.

The Brultech may be a bit overkill for this application so I think the CAI along with the relay suggested by BSR above would be the low cost solution for me.

You can actually do a very low cost home made current sensor. If you have access to the wires in their separate form (each wire independent), then you can take a strand of cat5 about 1 foot long and wrap it around the wire a whole bunch of times fairly tightly on the OUTSIDE of the insulation (just one strand of the wire going to the dryer but not stripped). Add a diode to the wire to rectify the ac current to dc. Turn on the dryer and put the two ends of the cat5 to a volt meter and see what you get. If you need more voltage do more wraps or vice-versa. Cai digital input will register anything between 3 and 5 volts as "on".

 

[swaggy]

That's interesting, I'm guessing through inductance I will get current in the cat5? I didn't realize you could do that with a wire wrapped around an insulated conductor though.

 

[cornutt]

Another possibility, if you have any UPB, is to use a UPB I/O device, e.g., the Web Mountain CM-01.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

You don't 'have' to use a fuse. I have an Elk power distribution box that I use for 'fused' inputs for running 12 volt sources around my home.

You can just add any inline fuse, or just not worry about it if your wiring prowess is good.

 

[apostolakisl]

That's interesting, I'm guessing through inductance I will get current in the cat5? I didn't realize you could do that with a wire wrapped around an insulated conductor though.

That is exactly how you get. It all has to be insulated or it will just become part of the primary wire. The tighter the wrap the better the result, so you want thin insulation. You could also get laquered wire like a real transformer, but the point isn't to make a transformer, just get a few volts. You don't need any current, just a few volts of potential for cai to measure.

It has been known to happen where very desparate (and somewhat stupid) people will climb electric poles and wrap wire around the utility lines to steal electricity.