ELK M1 GOLD M1GSYS4S - pre install questions and help please

[treo650]

Hello All. New to this site. ---but have been lurking for the last 1 week.

I am an IT Guy, so VERY FAMILIAR with networking and TCP/IP, but never installed an alarm before, so EOL resistors are new to me...

Doing a new construction, 2700ft two story in Southern California (San Gabriel Valley)
---anyone around this area that does ELK install?? That would save me so much time in DIY lol.

Just ordered online:

1- M1GSYS4S system (can, kp2, battery, 14 in case)
1- M1XEP ethernet to serial
1- M1BBK2 flush mount for kp2
4pcs- SP12F flush spkrs
6pieces - Bosch ISC-BPQ2 Blue Line Gen2 Quad PIR Motion 40ft

Not yet ordered:
window and door sensors -- what do you recommend?

Planning everything wired as drywall is not up yet and I have full access to studs

Okay, with the preface out of the way, here are my questions.
1) Ive read on the forums that there was a DIY guide for an M1 Gold install, anyone got the link?
2) when I recieve the M1G, I plan to dummy test before hooking it up at the construction site.. Plan on wiring only 1 magnet sensor and 1 motion detector to get a feel of the system.
Do I update firmware with the zones attached? Or does it not matter?
3) M1G has 16 zone input, does it matter if magnet sensors and motion detectors go to which zone? or simply plug it in to any open zone??
4) I plan to self monitor and have the M1XEP email me in an alarm event, I will have access to my DVR cctv and call the cops if needed BUT, if I decide on going with AlarmRelay, can I have them program all my zones for me? Saving me time not needing to program on my own.
5) And finally (for now) any guides or how to surface mount the door and magnet sensors without drilling ON the window and door? Can I drill it on the frame only and double side tape the magnet to the door? any other tricks with door and window sensors with not drilling?


------those are the basic questions....for now....
Im sure this topic/guide will help me alot - subscribed

Thanks everyone in advance

*excuse the grammer, posting from my handheld

 

[treo650]

Another question,

the bosch motion sensor install guide has +,-,T,T,NC,NC connections.

I assume T is for tamper?

Do I only wire the +,-, NC,NC connections?

And Also, if I use each sensor for each zone, do I pull ALL the + and - wires back to the same location on the elk panel?
so the power connection from the panel will have many + and - wires connecting to the screw port?

 

[video321]

First off...I'd recommend going through the articles which you can find on the homepage. From there start doing some thread searches on topics of interest and read through. Being in IT myself, you quickly find how one answer becomes another question - same here. Updating the firmware it doesn't matter what is/isn't connected. Just know this, you don't want to bench test your system with zones that were programmed, but not connected. I also monitor myself with text messages and without a 3rd party system you don't have granular options like having the message report which zone was violated dynamically. For that I setup a text for each door and some other specifics, but grouped others such as the glassbreak detectors into a single message. I also have a message if the alarm was disarmed after going off so I know it was an accident (unless someone has my 6-digit code!)

For the contacts, I have vinyl windows which I did not want to drill at all. I found contacts by Tane called "pill" which worked out extremely well for me. They are very small and sleek looking. For doors I used small 3/8" flush mount contacts. I did not install EOL. Again, you can find more info in the tutorials.

Correct on the Bosch, you don't need to wire the tamper connections if you don't use them. For wiring, I used the homerun method for everything. Further, I even wired by double-mulled windows with 4-wire but put them in series on a single zone in the can. The Elk has 3 aux. power locations to split it up and you can use terminal blocks in you prefer.

 

[jpmargis]

I'm a retired electrical engineer with just a bit of alarm experience. I live in San Dimas and I'm willing to help. I'm planning a similar installation for a friend early next year and would like to get some of the learning curve behind me. Interested?

 

[nvas]

Hi,

I am also planning to buy ELK M1 GOLD M1GSYS4S, i am new to this. Could you please let me know what you bought, where you bought and how much it cost. If you don't mind please send details to [email protected].

Best,
Vas

 

[apostolakisl]

Hi,

I am also planning to buy ELK M1 GOLD M1GSYS4S, i am new to this. Could you please let me know what you bought, where you bought and how much it cost. If you don't mind please send details to

Best,
Vas

I would remove your email address from this post. Spammers search the web for email addresses and they will find yours.

 

[treo650]

@video321 thanks for your detailed response

1)--for the zones, can I mix and match the door sensor and motion sensors on to the zone input? port 1-16?
and are there any polarity on the zone inputs?

2) I plan to use a GSM fixed terminal for gsm sim card backup, do I simply plug into the ELK board? any special setting?
What I wish to do is, IP monitor and email/text when an alarm even occurs and CALL me or neighbors (or cops) if internet is down


side note: anyone have problems replying to this forum on android OS/>?

for some reason I canot reply on my android

 

[video321]

1. You theoretically can, but in no way would I ever do that. A better idea would be to group like sensors, such as all the windows in a room. Motion sensors can be grouped together, but then you loose the ability to use the cross zone pooling option of the M1 - which requires 2 or more zones to be tripped within a defined period of time before sending an alarm. Avery useful feature for motion sensors.

2. Can't say, but would assume you need to add a serial port expander.

 

[tmbrown97]

Here's some answers in no particular order:

1. You can combine zones, but as said above, they should make sense... like combining 2 kitchen windows. Don't combine motion/contact - they're also defined as different zone types (motions are off when armed in Stay vs. Away). Also if you want to get into more automation, sometimes it's nice to know exactly which window is open... just depends on if knowing which one is worth the cost of buying more zone expanders as needed.
2. If you don't have a land line, there are options - such as the Uplink GSM products; or if you want to use the Elk's built-in voice dialing, you'd probably be better with the HAI C3 (I prefer the Uplink products for pure monitoring, but if you want to be able to use Voice, the HAI C3 acts just like a POTS line to your panel).
3. For replying via Android - download Tapatalk... much better for mobile access.
4. Don't voice-dial the cops... that needs to go through a monitoring station via a properly-monitored system. In my area it's blatantly illegal and will result in a.) no-show from the cops; and b.) a fine.
5. If you want to use the tamper, check out the 4-way wiring options on the M1... you can use a single zone and get EOL supervision as well as tamper supervision, all on the same zone. I think there's a 3-way to skip the EOLR as well.
6. When you bench test, only configure what's connected; and you'll need to put a resistor across the Zone 2 terminals or it'll annoyingly announce trouble on the siren. You should hook up any accessories (serial expanders, ethernet, input expanders, keypads, etc) and firmware update all of them; this can easily be done once installed though. I did very little during my first bench test other than get familiar with everything and figure out what I needed to order still... then when I put it together it was easier to get into the programming more.
7. The M1G isn't a totally supported platform for AlarmRelay IIRC... of course they'll monitor it, but you'll need to program it correctly. They can help guide you, but won't just do it for you.
8. Of the onboard zones, they're basically all the same with a couple things to note... 2-wire smokes can only go on Zone 16 if you even use them... and only the onboard zones work for analog or temperature zones; so if you're using those and need more than 16 zones total, keep those onboard first then fill around them. Also I like to group doors, windows, motions, interior-doors, non-alarm zones... all together respectively. Depending on the application you use to manage the system many group by zone number so this keeps things logically grouped together.
9. For the windows I know they often use double-sided tape - but I personally wouldn't do that for a door... even if they're small screws, use screws to secure the sensors... there's nothing you can't patch with a little fill later. Further more for doors, either a hinge-side plunger or the traditional style where you drill the sensor into the top of the jamb and the magnet into the top of the door out of sight - but I don't want to see sensors anywhere in my house... Every one is concealed.
10. Only one keypad? There's different schools of thought on this, but mine is to have a keypad by each main entrance (front door, garage door/mudroom, and Master Bedroom. Then I combine the KP2's with the flushmount box and SP12 speaker and with enough keypads well distributed you get nice coverage with the audio as well.
11. Even if you self-install, familiarize yourself with local laws/restrictions around alarm installation. Different jurisdictions have different requirements, such as the need to listen-in and hear something; or the need for multiple zone activations within a set period; etc... you may need to buy/install something extra to keep them happy; and in may areas you need a permit even if self-monitoring (even if it doesn't alert authorities, if it sounds an alarm and the neighbor calls and they respond - you need the same alarm permit)

And NVAS - there's a million threads on CT about newbie's gathering parts lists for their new system - it's a pretty personal decision in a lot of cases what all to go with... then you can go to a CT approved vendor such as AutomatedOutlet and price things out... and even give them a call when you're ready for a large package to see what they can do. Or if you really want to have fun some of us could send you our parts/price lists after being in this for years! But, then there's the risk of the wives seeing them...
:blink:

 

[treo650]

Thanks again for the very detailed response, and taking time to reply Work2Play

The alarm system will be dleivered by UPS Monday, yay!

More thoughts/ concerns/ questions

**I decided to purchase TWO M1KPAS single gang keypads, so now I have a total of 3 total keypads.

At this poiint, I have a basic setup so do not see the need for extra $$ on the bus hub, so question is:

1) How do I wire the 3 total keypads? Series or Parellel?
I am looking through the manual and it says to home run the + and - to the panel, but the Data A and Data B wires, needs to be series?

2) is it WRONG OR BAD to home run all the four wires, all three keypads?

Whats the correct way and wire scheme/color to connect the 3 keypads using cat5s at each keypad?

3) Can I use the RP software to enroll the keypads??

Thanks guys....

 

[video321]

1) How do I wire the 3 total keypads? Series or Parellel?
I am looking through the manual and it says to home run the + and - to the panel, but the Data A and Data B wires, needs to be series?

2) is it WRONG OR BAD to home run all the four wires, all three keypads?

Whats the correct way and wire scheme/color to connect the 3 keypads using cat5s at each keypad?

3) Can I use the RP software to enroll the keypads??

1. Correct. This is to keep voltage drop on the power lines down, but the data lines need to be in series.
2. Home run is the prefered method - you can series in the panel. This also gives you the ability to add/move/change things around. The manual will list the CatX color codes.
3. Yes. But only connect the main keypad to enroll that one first. Once that is done you can wire up the KPASes and use RP to enroll them.

 

[video321]

At this poiint, I have a basic setup so do not see the need for extra $$ on the bus hub

I have a small system as well, but decided to purchase the DBH only to ease any troubleshooting issues that may arise - which I had to do when I was experiencing issues with my KPAS.

 

[treo650]

@video, thanks for the response.


1)How do you (or anyone reading this), feel about the wireless module? Is GE or Honeywell preferred? (both in terms of cost and performance?)
Are honeywell sensors cheaper than GE?

 

[wuench]

I would avoid wireless if at all possible because you have to replace the batteries,they are much slower to respond than wired zones, and the cost is much higher. That being said make sure you get sensors where you can replace the batteries (as opposed to having to replace the whole sensor). Make sure to test your sensors before you install them, some have been sitting on the shelf for years and may have weak or no battery life left.

I put my wireless receiver in the attic for maximum coverage. And I am in the process of replacing my wireless sensors with wired. I have the CADDX wireless receiver not the Elk one so I can't really comment on sensor preferences...

 

[treo650]

Re: DOORBELL

I need 4 seperate doorbell buttons for the house

1) Can I home run 4 seperate wires to the panel? If yes, would you go with 22/4 or cat5e wire?

2) How do I wire the 4 doorbell buttons? Series? Or parallel is okay? Any EOL resitor needed? And do I wire them to zone 1-16?

2) My goal is to have the alarm sp12 speakers chime when the button is pressed, how do I go about this? Do I setup a rule in RP software? how?


Basically, I want the doorbell buttons SEPERATE from the alarm. I want it to only act as a doorbell, to let me know someone is at the door.
Of course, I do not want it to sound the alarm when pressed.

thanks in advance