LED doorbell push button for the M1 GOLD
- Thread starter treo650
- Start date
treo650
Active Member
solved. here's how i ended up running this. i'm guessing that my doorbell has a resistor built into it, unless the led itself is acting as one (not sure if that's possible). anyway, all of my other zones with an EOLR are reading 7.1 - 7.2 volts but the doorbell zone is reading 6.3 volts. i bought a heath zentih led doorbell from lowe's a while back, not sure of the model number. but it seems to be lighting up just fine with the voltage provided from the m1 board.
i have a rule for whenever "Doorbell Zone" becomes Not Secure, turn on "Doorbell Output" for 1 second which is using one of the Normally Open SPDT outputs from the M1XOVR relay board.
I think many users on this board will benefit from your off the shelf zenith doorbell...
Can you somehow grab a model number or picture of your doorbell?
That will save future users lots of headache with an off the shelf solution
pete_c
Guru
The LED doorbuttons already are made for a standard AC type transformer door bell button. That said the resistors are sealed in the epoxy behind the switch.
When you order the LCD doorbell button you specify the voltage of the doorbell transformer.
You can also just manually build the button for a lot less. My doorbell setup is different where I kept the conventional doorbell tranformer and button and added the Elk Doorbell circut boards (one for the doorbell and one for just debounce.
The above drawing uses an Elk output to drive the doorbell ringer switch and a separate Elk zone input zone plus uses the voltage on the zone to drive the LCD.
W2P,
It would be "more fun" to have a little speaker outside and have a computer talk to whoever is ringing the doorbell with a bit of intelligence or a fake animated plant greeting the doorbell ringer, just moving enough to see it with the corner of your eye; but not really noticible. Maybe just moving a bush or something towards the doorbell ringer between all of the rest of the bushes.
treo650
Active Member
Guys, I have a break-through for this thread.
Today, I recieved my doorbells, ordered off the internet.
My goal was to use a 16mm LED pushbutton (stainless steel) inside the hole. -it fits nicely.
--------------------------------------------------------------
BUT the breakthrough here is:
For the ORIGINAL lighted button on the doorbell, you can SCREW IT and remove the bulb from the slot.
-So essentially, all you need to do is purchase a 12v led bulb and replace the original light and you got your lighted doorbell that works with the M1 (which is the original post/question of this thread)
*I uploaded a photo so you guys can see how its done. Note the new stainless steel button, and the original button opened up.
*****Caveat: I know there are others on this site that mentions replacing the bulb in the original doorbell, but not one has a specific model of the doorbell.
This model is a NUTONE branded doorbell for future readers whom wants a lighted doorbell. Simply twist the button pull out the light, and replace it with an LED
Today, I recieved my doorbells, ordered off the internet.
My goal was to use a 16mm LED pushbutton (stainless steel) inside the hole. -it fits nicely.
--------------------------------------------------------------
BUT the breakthrough here is:
For the ORIGINAL lighted button on the doorbell, you can SCREW IT and remove the bulb from the slot.
-So essentially, all you need to do is purchase a 12v led bulb and replace the original light and you got your lighted doorbell that works with the M1 (which is the original post/question of this thread)
*I uploaded a photo so you guys can see how its done. Note the new stainless steel button, and the original button opened up.
*****Caveat: I know there are others on this site that mentions replacing the bulb in the original doorbell, but not one has a specific model of the doorbell.
This model is a NUTONE branded doorbell for future readers whom wants a lighted doorbell. Simply twist the button pull out the light, and replace it with an LED
Attachments
Sorry to dig up an old thread, but in case anyone is searching for additional LED lit switches this might be helpful.
I've been mucking around with one of these Spore doorbell buttons that have an LED built in http://sporedoorbells.com/aluminum/ They aren't cheap though, so look for sales.
When I check the KPNAV it says the current draw that this adds to the M1 is 0.01 Amps to the overall system. Doorbell button works perflectly on a main board input with Type set to EOL Supervised/RF and Fast loop response (global fast loop response is set to 0.04ms).
I did notice when mucking around with this that there is about a five second delay between when you click on the "Send to Control" and the doorbell starts working properly. Not sure if thats normal yet as this is the first input I've been playing with. Glass breaks next, then Occupancy sensors and Motions.
Joz
I've been mucking around with one of these Spore doorbell buttons that have an LED built in http://sporedoorbells.com/aluminum/ They aren't cheap though, so look for sales.
When I check the KPNAV it says the current draw that this adds to the M1 is 0.01 Amps to the overall system. Doorbell button works perflectly on a main board input with Type set to EOL Supervised/RF and Fast loop response (global fast loop response is set to 0.04ms).
I did notice when mucking around with this that there is about a five second delay between when you click on the "Send to Control" and the doorbell starts working properly. Not sure if thats normal yet as this is the first input I've been playing with. Glass breaks next, then Occupancy sensors and Motions.
Joz
apostolakisl
Senior Member
I have just put 2 led doorbells on my system and they work great. These are off-the-shelf LED push-button doorbells at Lowe's and are sold under "utilitech" brand. They come in a bunch of styles. They are designed for AC doorbell transformers but the DC current works just fine provided you get the polarity correct. I put these on my office system which is a DSC. I suspect they would work just fine on the Elk as well. The DSC runs at 6.5v, while the Elk is at 13.8v, but the bulbs are rated for 24vac, so I suspect 13.8vdc shouldn't cause troubles, certainly the 6.5vdc at the office is not. They aren't super bright at 6.5v, but I suspect at 13.8 they are likely brighter. The cost about $20.
I tried a Utilitech #0163358 from Lowe's and can confirm that it does work with the ELK M1G. The resulting zone voltage is close to 7 volts; however, the appearance is VERY poor. There is a roughly square lighted blotch in the middle of the round pushbutton and the lighted ring is very non-uniform. Most of the light appears to be going out the back of the switch.
tmbrown97
Senior Member
I guess that's the good thing about this thread still living on - somehow I missed that line from 5 months ago.
That would be absolutely hilarious - and with some minor adaptation, you could make one hell of a halloween prop!
In this house I can very easily access a bunch of inputs/outputs via my garage sub-panel and run right to the bushes next to my door. Plus in this house, I have the W800RF32 and the GE wireless receiver giving a lot more flexibility. This year time/money are tight, but I may have to start planning for next year!
apostolakisl
Senior Member
I bought 2 different styles but do not have the packages anymore to tell you the model number and they don't seem to list them on the website. But neither is as you describe. The lighting is even all the way around the "glow collar" and the button itself glows uniformly. There are no square shapes at all. Almost no light comes out the back. They had at least 4 styles to pick from at the store. Either the model you have is very different from mine, or something was twisted/broken/or otherwise knocked out of whack.
Similar threads
