LED doorbell push button for the M1 GOLD

[pete_c]

I do a "few" other "events" when the doorbell rings and/or other stuff by the front door related to this or that via the alarm panel (events there) and take events over to the home automation server.

Just a thought though; it would be kind of fun to mount a Chumby screen next to the door bell and have it do "stuff" when someone would ring the bell. I have side glass panels and they are layered in such a way that I could mount one inside of the side panel.

 

[tmbrown97]

Just a thought though; it would be kind of fun to mount a Chumby screen next to the door bell and have it do "stuff" when someone would ring the bell. I have side glass panels and they are layered in such a way that I could mount one inside of the side panel.

For some time now, I've really wanted to figure out how to come up with a "smart doorbell" touchpad of some sort. Something industrialized and not overly expensive, but that I can control the face of - it'd be nice if it was just a simple RS232 interface. My goal is to be able to do a few things:

1. Eliminate multiple doorbell rings - give a "Hold your horses - it's a big house!" message
2. My wife is a nurse who works long nights/sleeps during the day, and on the off days will still often nap when the kids do. I want to be able to change to "Do Not Disturb!" while she's sleeping.
3. On party days, switch to a simple "Come on it!"

I've even considered doing it via an old ipod touch mounted in a secure/flush fashion in a box outside. Added bonus if it were a new enough one to have a front-facing camera! And if you're really creative, include a SIP phone to ring the phones inside!

 

[pete_c]

Yup; right now sending a CID to the phones via a W2C box when the doorbell rings. An animated talking character on a display would be neat.

 

[treo650]

I'm thinking of ordering this one, for the white color led

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Metal-Switch-Momentary-Push-Button-White-Led-12mm-R-/251041323248?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a733a98f0#ht_6243wt_766

Do you know if I need a different resistor? Is so, which ohm?

The stainless definitely looks cheap, and not galvanized, so you raise a valid concern.

I plan on using this small led12mm button into a real oil bronze doorbell housing frame, so hopefully if it does rust, it doesn't show too much. --as long as the button still lights, I think I will be okay

@wuench, thanks for the reply. Yes I remember reading your posts a few months back about loop response, so I noted that.

I recieved the push buttons from the above link today, hooked it up to a zone on the M1, and YES it does in fact light up

It lights up nice and bright

Only problem I see now is, the size, 12mm, is too small for my needs, I plan to exchange it for a bigger 16mm button size.

 

[pete_c]

I received and installed doorbell button mentioned above. It is well constructed. I had to carve out a bit deeper hole for the doorbell button which took a couple of minutes.

http://www.expressions-ltd.com/Push_Button_Stainless_Steel_p/stainless-pushbutton.htm

Meanwhile thinking of taking apart my Infocast 3.5 device and turning it into a kind of entertainment door bell device. This though to be done during reconstruction of my front entrance. (side panels and roof will be a bit wired).

 

[treo650]

These are the sample 12mm buttons I purchased on ebay.

Lights up nice and bright, no ohm resistor needed, hooked up directly to the M1

--Button is too small for my needs however, so I will be upgradng to a 16mm size

 

[treo650]

I received and installed doorbell button mentioned above. It is well constructed. I had to carve out a bit deeper hole for the doorbell button which took a couple of minutes.

What did you use to carve out too make the hole bigger? Was your doorbell plate metal? or plastic?

 

[pete_c]

I'll take a picture.

I used a screwdriver to make the hole in the wooden side panel a bit deeper. It was kind of PITA because I couldn't move the wire. I think that the wire is stapled inside of the door frame.

The electronics (resistors etc) are in epoxy behind the button. The doorbell plate is metal and the replacement button was the same size as the hole in the doorbell plate.

The wire does carry 20VAC on it. (using the Elk doorbell circuit board and Elk debounce board such that I have a connection to the panel as well as the regular doorbell).

 

[treo650]

"The doorbell plate is metal and the replacement button was the same size as the hole in the doorbell plate."

---thats good, was the button 16mm in size?

 

[jpmargis]

Lights up nice and bright, no ohm resistor needed, hooked up directly to the M1

Check the zone voltage and you will see why two external resistors are required.

 

[pete_c]

Here are the specifications of the doorbell and pictures. I should have probably gone to the black one instead.

Product Specifications:

• Push Button Measurements: 11/16"W x 5/8" Thread Diameter x 1 3/4"L. (Non Lit is only 7/8" total Depth)
• Voltages: Available in 3 Voltages: 12V (8-12 Volts AC), 16V (12-16 Volts AC), or 24V (8-24 Volts AC). Match to your doorbell/doorchime transformer output, or use a voltage tester on your existing wires to determine voltage.
• LED Power Consumption: 12V: 0.24 Watts, 16V: 0.32 Watts, 24V: 0.48 Watts.
• These are LOW VOLTAGE buttons- Do NOT connect directly to standard 110V Power. Exceeding the button's voltage rating will burn out the LED in the button.
• Low voltage (16 Volt) power transformers sold separately here.
  
  

 

[treo650]

Looks good Pete!

 

[treo650]

Check the zone voltage and you will see why two external resistors are required.

Yes, I figured the voltage was out of spike thats why you called for resistors.

I dont have a Multimeter handy, but I see what you're saying.

 

[soccerob]

edit: solved - see next post

so i'm ready to intercept the doorbell being pressed and then send the output to the doorbell depending on the elk rules (baby sleeping). i have a 24VAC transformer in the same work box as the doorbell.
i'm not positive about whether or not i can use the SPDT relays for this or if i need to use the voltage outputs?
if i can use the SPDT elk relay, can i have the Normally Open red wire output go into the transformer and white Com wire go to the bell, then a wire from the output of the transformer run to the other terminal on the bell? pardon my ignorance.

 

[soccerob]

solved. here's how i ended up running this. i'm guessing that my doorbell has a resistor built into it, unless the led itself is acting as one (not sure if that's possible). anyway, all of my other zones with an EOLR are reading 7.1 - 7.2 volts but the doorbell zone is reading 6.3 volts. i bought a heath zentih led doorbell from lowe's a while back, not sure of the model number. but it seems to be lighting up just fine with the voltage provided from the m1 board.

i have a rule for whenever "Doorbell Zone" becomes Not Secure, turn on "Doorbell Output" for 1 second which is using one of the Normally Open SPDT outputs from the M1XOVR relay board.