LED doorbell push button for the M1 GOLD
- Thread starter treo650
- Start date
You could rectify the AC and regulate to 12VDC. Run that to the button and switch a relay (12VDC coil). Have the contacts switch the 20VAC to the doorbell. The relay and regulator don't need to go at the button. It would be much easier to put them at the doorbell if thats where the power and doorbell button wires come together and there would be more space.
getting it to light all the time would require you to disassemble the button. May be easy or hard - just depends on the button. Then you need a third wire to the button.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
I kind of doubt that this is possible looking at the picture of the button. But if you can get it apart, then you can pull a wire off of the lead to the bulb and rectify it/regulate it and then feed it back to the bulb provided the lead is to the bulb only and not feeding back to the chime.
tmbrown97
Senior Member
This is getting into an area I've never worked with before, but I do know relays, etc; how would one get the power from the 24VAC (or whatever it is) into 12VDC? I'd *love* to do that and just un-wire my doorbell for now - I already ran wires to the doorbell location for my zone connection. In the past I've taken apart the plungers and used an elk doorbell detector - and generally flip the doorbell to the other side of the wall - but this would be pretty simple and I could just leave the doorbell there instead of patching the wall.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
Those buttons look like they are already designed for doorbell voltage and cost about the same, so, I would say it is a no-brainer.
pete_c
Guru
Lou,
Yes; I ordered a "halo" blue one yesterday. They make three voltage designs (DC) to work with a span of AC voltages. They are just like the old style AC type lamp buttons except that they are LED.
My issue is that I have a front door with two side glass panels. That said the doorbell wiring is inside of the wood frame between the glass and the door. I do not know if I could utilize the existing pair of wires to pull up any more wire. I also had to "carve" up a hole for the doorbell buttin in place today such that it would fit.
I don't even know why I am playing with this as I am also getting estimates to redo the front entrance with a new door and side panels and building a "gable" of sorts (roof and columns) over the front door entrance. (kind of a major project). This because the front door literally bakes in the sun in the afternoon and causing some issues.
Old Old house had a wood door that had to be finished every 2-3 years because it was wood and the sun would bake it. I have a metal composite door today (that looks like wood) and the sun has warped. Could be just a cheap composite door that the builder put in.
Yes; I ordered a "halo" blue one yesterday. They make three voltage designs (DC) to work with a span of AC voltages. They are just like the old style AC type lamp buttons except that they are LED.
My issue is that I have a front door with two side glass panels. That said the doorbell wiring is inside of the wood frame between the glass and the door. I do not know if I could utilize the existing pair of wires to pull up any more wire. I also had to "carve" up a hole for the doorbell buttin in place today such that it would fit.
I don't even know why I am playing with this as I am also getting estimates to redo the front entrance with a new door and side panels and building a "gable" of sorts (roof and columns) over the front door entrance. (kind of a major project). This because the front door literally bakes in the sun in the afternoon and causing some issues.
Old Old house had a wood door that had to be finished every 2-3 years because it was wood and the sun would bake it. I have a metal composite door today (that looks like wood) and the sun has warped. Could be just a cheap composite door that the builder put in.
apostolakisl
Senior Member
Pete,
I must be missing something and excuse my lazyness, but this thread has gotten way to long for me to go back and figure it out. Why do you need a second set of wires? The buttons that you had the link to would indicate they get wired just like any doorbell button to the standard transformer. Is there something else going on?
apostolakisl
Senior Member
Depends on just how perfect of 12v you need and whether the 12v draw is always the same or if it has fluctuating draw. Something with a constant draw just needs either a single diode (or a 4 diode bridge rectifier for a steadier 12v) and a resistor of appropriate size. For example, if you start with 24vac, add a bridge rectifier which drops the voltage to maybe 22v, and you have an 11v led with a resistance of 500 ohms, then you need a resistor of 500 ohms to split the voltage.
If you need voltage that is consistent across different draws then you need a voltage regulator.
Also, you can often times find these things on ebay already assembled and ready to go for various voltages. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LTS-24-VAC-to-12-VDC-1-5-Amp-Supply-Current-Power-Adapter-DV-AT12015-D01-/270959144825?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f166c6f79
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Maybe I'm missing something here, but why would you want to take the 20 VAC from a transformer and convert it to 12 VDC? Why not just take the 120 VAC from the primary and use a standard 12 VDC wall wart instead?
I only thought about this for about 30 seconds so it is very possible I missed something!
I only thought about this for about 30 seconds so it is very possible I missed something!
pete_c
Guru
I asked rather can you connect the above 12VDC mentioned halo LED button with only two wires that carry 20VAC?
I did make the assumption that it couldn't be done with just two wires.
Apologies as my verbiage sounded like you needed more than two wires. I honestly don't know.
I don't want to change the voltage; in fact went from connecting the doorbell originally bypassing the old stuff to just plugging it into the alarm panel.
I then went back to using the old doorbell, using the Elk doorbell board, Elk debounce circuit board and still keeping a connection to the panel.
That said the voltage at the doorbell button is the original 20VAC. I guess to I can remove the 20VAC and just install a 12VDC transformer and see if the doorbell dinger works with 12VDC.
I am making a mountain out of a molehill as I already purchased a 20VAC LED halo button. Now its just more curiousity.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Ah, I forgot about the dinger itself having to run on 12 VDC. (What a dong I am)! :rofl:
apostolakisl
Senior Member
There really wouldn't be any value in putting a second wire to the button unless you needed two separate switches, especially seeing that it sounds like it would be a PITA. If you need the one button to signal two different devices that use different voltages, use relays. I put a link above for a 24vac coiled relay that would also work on 20vac. The relay can then switch any power supply you want to work simultaneous to the doorbell or close a zone on the Elk. Since you already own the Elk doorbell device that will do the trick, although you can't use that to switch another power supply.
As far as the chime working on 12vdc when it is designed for 20vac. . . unlikely. I can not off hand envision any risk of trying to hook up 12vdc to a 20vac chime to see what happens, but my speculation is it just won't ring. If you have an electronic chime that internally runs on dc current and has a built in rectifier, then it actually might work since the rectifier would just pass the dc current through, the issue would be if 12v is enough.
As far as the chime working on 12vdc when it is designed for 20vac. . . unlikely. I can not off hand envision any risk of trying to hook up 12vdc to a 20vac chime to see what happens, but my speculation is it just won't ring. If you have an electronic chime that internally runs on dc current and has a built in rectifier, then it actually might work since the rectifier would just pass the dc current through, the issue would be if 12v is enough.
The extra wire was in answer to the question about having the light on all the time (I think as opposed to having it go out when pushed). I agree that it would be a PITA and IMHO having the light go out momentarily is not that big of deal. Maybe I misunderstood the question....
I never thought a doorbell button question would generate 5 pages of posts!
But then I am thinking of replacing mine with an arduino so I can have some custom sounds. I am thinking of a traditional doorbell sound for the doorbell and a car horn (gentle beep-beep not a blaring blast) for the driveway sensor.
I used the MP3Trigger for this. It's not quite as flexible as an arduino, but well suited to the job. I had to use a relay to make a standard lighted button work with it.
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