POE security camera system?
- Thread starter newalarm
- Start date
drvnbysound
Senior Member
Curious to know what Axis models you've been looking at.
I just went through the product selector on their website, and choosing 1) Outdoor ready, 2) Built-in IR, and 3) Day/night functionality narrows down the list of offerings GREATLY. Of the dome style cameras, the P3225-LVE is the only dome-style 1080p model I see. I didn't bother looking at the P3364 models as they are 6mm and 12mm.
I then went to B&H Photo (an authorized reseller of Axis cameras) and searched for the P3225-LVE camera and it's listed at $722. Granted, it is a PTZ camera and not just a fixed camera.
If I change the "camera type" to fixed, only bullet style cameras are listed. I'm not a fan of the bullet style personally, as the dome-style seems more aesthetically pleasing to me mounted in a soffit.
I just went through the product selector on their website, and choosing 1) Outdoor ready, 2) Built-in IR, and 3) Day/night functionality narrows down the list of offerings GREATLY. Of the dome style cameras, the P3225-LVE is the only dome-style 1080p model I see. I didn't bother looking at the P3364 models as they are 6mm and 12mm.
I then went to B&H Photo (an authorized reseller of Axis cameras) and searched for the P3225-LVE camera and it's listed at $722. Granted, it is a PTZ camera and not just a fixed camera.
If I change the "camera type" to fixed, only bullet style cameras are listed. I'm not a fan of the bullet style personally, as the dome-style seems more aesthetically pleasing to me mounted in a soffit.
ecborgoyn said:
1. Even non-PTZ cameras start coming close to the 15W maximum....the more processing power, heaters, etc. it's better to plan the port power to be higher and then limit by class or what is negotiated by the device.
2. The pairs wouldn't even be connected to the NVR, however it's a good idea to turn off the POE on a port that doesn't need it. Best practice.
3. Probably not going to really see the need for gig links on cameras unless you're really pushing a very large stream and many of them at the same time. Even 20MP cameras we're running now don't come close to making the port scream and need a gig link.
It's not for PTZ purposes. It's for setup and maintenance. You aim the camera once and then hit autofocus on the camera or via the browser configuration. Done. Even the best standard varifocal lenses that are locked down physically, drift over time. Far easier to web into the camera and then focus than drag the ladder out.d.dennerline said:
ddennerline
Active Member
DEL Can the motorized varifocal lens operate like a zoom camera?
Can I set the initial field of view to wide angle, have the camera send me an alert when someone comes into area, and then zoom through phone web app? I realize that subject may have moved too quickly that fixed zoom may not be effective.
For $500 what kind of camera is best to cover a large area? Dahua has a 2mp PTZ (http://www.dahuasecurity.com/en/us/pro_details.php?pid=995) for ~$500. Is it better to get a fix lens with higher resolution or a PTZ with lower resolution when covering a large area?
Can I set the initial field of view to wide angle, have the camera send me an alert when someone comes into area, and then zoom through phone web app? I realize that subject may have moved too quickly that fixed zoom may not be effective.
For $500 what kind of camera is best to cover a large area? Dahua has a 2mp PTZ (http://www.dahuasecurity.com/en/us/pro_details.php?pid=995) for ~$500. Is it better to get a fix lens with higher resolution or a PTZ with lower resolution when covering a large area?
I am glad I am asking all these questions before I jumped into this. Learning a lot.
Del, so if I understand this right, for my switch, I should go ahead and pickup a POE+ with decent wattage. Turning off the POE on a port would be done through a managed switch I assume, so for simplicity sake, I can just pick up a 4POE and 4ethernet. combo switch. I can add an injector if I need more than 4 cameras.
The Gig switch is not really needed for the cameras, BUT would it be required for the NVR/PC? since that connection would be throttling through all of the data from the cameras.
The varifocal option seems very useful since Having to refocus, on top of a ladder, does not seem too appealing. Especially when you drop the screws and have to look for them...
Del, so if I understand this right, for my switch, I should go ahead and pickup a POE+ with decent wattage. Turning off the POE on a port would be done through a managed switch I assume, so for simplicity sake, I can just pick up a 4POE and 4ethernet. combo switch. I can add an injector if I need more than 4 cameras.
The Gig switch is not really needed for the cameras, BUT would it be required for the NVR/PC? since that connection would be throttling through all of the data from the cameras.
The varifocal option seems very useful since Having to refocus, on top of a ladder, does not seem too appealing. Especially when you drop the screws and have to look for them...
I don't see myself needing PTZ. I would rather get a bigger MP camera that I can digitally zoom later.
My eave is short on south, so I would imagine it would be best to not have a bullet that would be exposed to elements. I am also worried about winter sun that may make it useless for the majority of the day. I could try to build a sun shade with sheet of alum.
I don't know that I will be able to do Axis camera. I will do more research.
My eave is short on south, so I would imagine it would be best to not have a bullet that would be exposed to elements. I am also worried about winter sun that may make it useless for the majority of the day. I could try to build a sun shade with sheet of alum.
I don't know that I will be able to do Axis camera. I will do more research.
pete_c
Guru
BUT would it be required for the NVR/PC?
By default over the years here have upgraded older home network switches to 24 port Gb managed switches. A separate switch for just the cams will take the traffic off of the main switch. VLANs can separate traffic but not change the ding on the back plane of the switch. Managed Gb and managed POE switches are reasonably priced these days. My older Speco domes are fading a bit these days. They are heavier (aluminium metal) versus plastic.
It is a PITA to adjust a camera on a ladder. If need be here removed the camera and adjusted it manually. Typically though they are pre adjusted and focused. Having digital to analogue lens adjustments are a good to have feature.
Here utilize bullet and dome cameras. The 2nd floor eaves are about 1.5 feet of overhang?. It is easier for me to use a bullet as there is wood trim (on brick) on the eave and the bullet cam is attached to the wood trim. Domes are attached to boxes. Domes do look nicer than bullet cams. Here I wouldn't hang a dome on the aluminum overhang (eaves). I used one of those fiberglass wire pulllers (look like fishing poles) from the outside in to the attic and connected the cat5e wire to the end of the fiberglass pole and pulled it back out. Still a PITA to do while standing on the top of the ladder. Use a tool belt and take all your tools up with you. I used my cell phone wireless to adjust the position of the camera. After a bit you get comfortable working on the top of the ladder. Check for any little wasps nests under the eave that can cause you some issues. (I just removed them before doing any work up there). Many many years ago my first IP HD camera was in a large bullet style housing (old style analog housing). It was so big that birds used it as a perch and hangout and totally covered it with their droppings (lens though was OK cuz it was under a hood of sorts). A dome stays cleaner longer. A spider / spider web and food trappings can cause you grief.
For a dome I would suggest a base / box. Users here have built a wood base over the aluminum eave. There are dome hangers too.
Utilize also sun /snow exposed domes. The good ones do not deteriorate from the sun; the bad ones do. > 10 year old Optex combos still look new.
Look at the IP ratings of the cams.
IP = ingress protection
#1 digit = solids protection
#2 digit = liquids protection
Ingress Protection (IP) and what it means
The IP Code (or International Protection Rating, sometimes also interpreted as Ingress Protection Rating*) consists of the letters IP followed by two digits and an optional letter. As defined in international standard IEC 60529, it classifies the degrees of protection provided against the intrusion of solid objects (including body parts like hands and fingers), dust, accidental contact, and water in electrical enclosures. The standard aims to provide users more detailed information than vague marketing terms such as waterproof.
The digits (characteristic numerals) indicate conformity with the conditions summarized in the tables below. For example, an electrical socket rated IP22 is protected against insertion of fingers and will not be damaged or become unsafe during a specified test in which it is exposed to vertically or nearly vertically dripping water. IP22 or 2X are typical minimum requirements for the design of electrical accessories for indoor use.
By default over the years here have upgraded older home network switches to 24 port Gb managed switches. A separate switch for just the cams will take the traffic off of the main switch. VLANs can separate traffic but not change the ding on the back plane of the switch. Managed Gb and managed POE switches are reasonably priced these days. My older Speco domes are fading a bit these days. They are heavier (aluminium metal) versus plastic.
It is a PITA to adjust a camera on a ladder. If need be here removed the camera and adjusted it manually. Typically though they are pre adjusted and focused. Having digital to analogue lens adjustments are a good to have feature.
Here utilize bullet and dome cameras. The 2nd floor eaves are about 1.5 feet of overhang?. It is easier for me to use a bullet as there is wood trim (on brick) on the eave and the bullet cam is attached to the wood trim. Domes are attached to boxes. Domes do look nicer than bullet cams. Here I wouldn't hang a dome on the aluminum overhang (eaves). I used one of those fiberglass wire pulllers (look like fishing poles) from the outside in to the attic and connected the cat5e wire to the end of the fiberglass pole and pulled it back out. Still a PITA to do while standing on the top of the ladder. Use a tool belt and take all your tools up with you. I used my cell phone wireless to adjust the position of the camera. After a bit you get comfortable working on the top of the ladder. Check for any little wasps nests under the eave that can cause you some issues. (I just removed them before doing any work up there). Many many years ago my first IP HD camera was in a large bullet style housing (old style analog housing). It was so big that birds used it as a perch and hangout and totally covered it with their droppings (lens though was OK cuz it was under a hood of sorts). A dome stays cleaner longer. A spider / spider web and food trappings can cause you grief.
For a dome I would suggest a base / box. Users here have built a wood base over the aluminum eave. There are dome hangers too.
Utilize also sun /snow exposed domes. The good ones do not deteriorate from the sun; the bad ones do. > 10 year old Optex combos still look new.
Look at the IP ratings of the cams.
IP = ingress protection
#1 digit = solids protection
#2 digit = liquids protection
Ingress Protection (IP) and what it means
The IP Code (or International Protection Rating, sometimes also interpreted as Ingress Protection Rating*) consists of the letters IP followed by two digits and an optional letter. As defined in international standard IEC 60529, it classifies the degrees of protection provided against the intrusion of solid objects (including body parts like hands and fingers), dust, accidental contact, and water in electrical enclosures. The standard aims to provide users more detailed information than vague marketing terms such as waterproof.
The digits (characteristic numerals) indicate conformity with the conditions summarized in the tables below. For example, an electrical socket rated IP22 is protected against insertion of fingers and will not be damaged or become unsafe during a specified test in which it is exposed to vertically or nearly vertically dripping water. IP22 or 2X are typical minimum requirements for the design of electrical accessories for indoor use.
No.d.dennerline said:
As far as what is best, really a PTZ is only good if it's got a tour programmed or some basic intelligence involved and even then, really only when you've got human intervention. Otherwise, a higher MP camera would get a better resolution (barring the need for optical/digital zoom) until you deal with pixel distortion or the distance being too great and the pixels too big to really see detail. You need to consider mounting height, distance to objects and overall FOV.
I'd buy a cheap managed switch. We just built our own network at a site with a Sisco core and etherwan switches over fiber trunked to the core and none of the camera ports are greater than 10/100. With high quality Axis MP PTZ's. (about 300 I recall). The bandwidth to the server would suggest either dual NIC or get a switch with a couple of gig management ports and go there.newalarm said:
The key for the cams would be to get the light to work with you and pick a camera that does good with ATW/HLC settings and performance.
@ Pete,
The dome vs. bullet is an argument that happens all hte time. I'd suggest bullets where there's no overhang or anything to keep the weather from running across the camera. I've also used the turret cams a few times over the years with success. I'd suggest that the end user look at what conduit backboxes the manufacturer offers and consider that with their application. Sometimes they're more work than just mounting the camera properly to the soffit.
The dome vs. bullet is an argument that happens all hte time. I'd suggest bullets where there's no overhang or anything to keep the weather from running across the camera. I've also used the turret cams a few times over the years with success. I'd suggest that the end user look at what conduit backboxes the manufacturer offers and consider that with their application. Sometimes they're more work than just mounting the camera properly to the soffit.
pete_c
Guru
I have had good luck with el cheapo TP-Link managed Gb switches.
Today I have three 24 port TP-Link managed switches on line at home. I have one of these in a 42" Leviton can today.
TL-SG1024DE
Have a look at their managed POE + switches here and purchase them from Amazon.
TL-SG108PE
TL-SG3424P
Today I have three 24 port TP-Link managed switches on line at home. I have one of these in a 42" Leviton can today.
TL-SG1024DE
Have a look at their managed POE + switches here and purchase them from Amazon.
TL-SG108PE
TL-SG3424P
I have never dealt with a managed or semi managed switch before. That first switch seems to not be a POE switch?
I don't really want to invest in an expensive 16 or 24 port switch until I am confident i know what i am doing. The injector will allow me to play with my existing set up, either with my existing network, or my spare switch. Plus when i am ready to have that many cameras, I will really need some serious computing power.
My home network switch is an un-managed 16 port switch gigabyte(energy efficient).
I don't really want to invest in an expensive 16 or 24 port switch until I am confident i know what i am doing. The injector will allow me to play with my existing set up, either with my existing network, or my spare switch. Plus when i am ready to have that many cameras, I will really need some serious computing power.
My home network switch is an un-managed 16 port switch gigabyte(energy efficient).
