Water Shutoff Valve

Mr Spock

I haven't used it long enough yet. I use it for whole house shut off and it works fine. It is a well built unit and should last a long time IMO.
 
I'm looking to install one of these valves in my new home for the main water shutoff. If I go with a 12vdc model, will I be able to connect it to my HAI OPII via CAT5e/6? I see the ELK states to use 18 ga wires. Also, is it a must for these to be installed indoors? Since my shutoff is located outside, the plumber was suggesting to install it in a sprinkler valve box in the ground. Bad idea? Should I plan on looping a line from the exterior manual shutoff valve into the garage for the automated valve and then back out to pick up the main supply ... or would that small loop restrict pressure? Wish I had investigated this BEFORE the plumbing was roughed in ...
 
I'm looking to install one of these valves in my new home for the main water shutoff. If I go with a 12vdc model, will I be able to connect it to my HAI OPII via CAT5e/6? I see the ELK states to use 18 ga wires. Also, is it a must for these to be installed indoors? Since my shutoff is located outside, the plumber was suggesting to install it in a sprinkler valve box in the ground. Bad idea? Should I plan on looping a line from the exterior manual shutoff valve into the garage for the automated valve and then back out to pick up the main supply ... or would that small loop restrict pressure? Wish I had investigated this BEFORE the plumbing was roughed in ...

I hooked my Elk WSV using CAT 5. The wire was already there and pulling a new one didn't appeal to me. So anyway, the cat5 was going almost exactly to the right place so I doubled up the wires turning 8 into 4 and hooked up the valve. No probs so far (3 years).
 
I'm looking to install one of these valves in my new home for the main water shutoff. If I go with a 12vdc model, will I be able to connect it to my HAI OPII via CAT5e/6? I see the ELK states to use 18 ga wires. Also, is it a must for these to be installed indoors? Since my shutoff is located outside, the plumber was suggesting to install it in a sprinkler valve box in the ground. Bad idea? Should I plan on looping a line from the exterior manual shutoff valve into the garage for the automated valve and then back out to pick up the main supply ... or would that small loop restrict pressure? Wish I had investigated this BEFORE the plumbing was roughed in ...
I'd run a voltage drop calculation before thinking anything was ok. How far is the run at what current draw?
Is your water main under a concrete slab or something? Why else wouldn't you be able to tap off inside? Also, I'm sure the CatX in your possession isn't outdoor rated.
 
I'd run a voltage drop calculation before thinking anything was ok. How far is the run at what current draw?
Is your water main under a concrete slab or something? Why else wouldn't you be able to tap off inside? Also, I'm sure the CatX in your possession isn't outdoor rated.
good to hear
 
I'd run a voltage drop calculation before thinking anything was ok. How far is the run at what current draw?
Is your water main under a concrete slab or something? Why else wouldn't you be able to tap off inside? Also, I'm sure the CatX in your possession isn't outdoor rated.
I haven't gotten to the whole current draw review yet. I'm a newbie in all of this and everything isn't in place yet. I'm working with an automation company (Mile High Automation) with all of this to get my feet wet. Yes, the water main is in the slab and I was simply trying to avoid any reconfig to the current installation. I doubt looping it up the exterior wall a foot or two, taking it into the garage and back out and down wouldn't be too much of an issue ... just more of an issue than simply installing it inline before it enters the slab.

You're right, the CATx currently in place isn't outdoor rated, but it wouldn't be much of an issue to run it thru some conduit. The distance between the drop and the shut off valve is only a few feet.

I appreciate the feedback.
 
You're right, the CATx currently in place isn't outdoor rated, but it wouldn't be much of an issue to run it thru some conduit. The distance between the drop and the shut off valve is only a few feet.
I'd be worried about the connections in a sprinkler box (I don't think they're gasketed?? I have a custom stainless steel enclosure so I don't recall.) You could get away with using gel caps, but is the valve sealed? You'd probably be best to design a box that is waterproof.
 
My valves occasionally get a bit wet during cleanup of a brew session, but I don't think I'd trust them to sun/water for an extended period of time. It would be best to enclose them.
 
I ended up buying the valve from oscsys as recommended here and it's installed! I am currently using the 12v from the M1G to power it because I don't have too many other things drawing current from the Elk, I suppose I'll move it to a separate power supply when I do add more. Nice setup with the output trigger, when activated it opens the valve, when it's not the valve returns to closed.
 
I ended up buying the valve from oscsys as recommended here and it's installed! I am currently using the 12v from the M1G to power it because I don't have too many other things drawing current from the Elk, I suppose I'll move it to a separate power supply when I do add more. Nice setup with the output trigger, when activated it opens the valve, when it's not the valve returns to closed.
Yeah, I was going to grab one as well, but they're currently out of stock. Did you try Bucko's mod to capture the valve state?
 
I didn't (do the mod), however I did wire two output zones to it just in case I want to monitor it in the future. It's not mission critical - it's a hot water loop. When it works the WAF is high when it doesn't I go in the basement and turn the manual valve control to open and she's none the wiser.
 
Are you saying it is working intermittently or that in the event it doesn't work you'll go turn the valve manually?
 
I'm saying I really don't need to supervise it, because it's not mission critical. It's working great now.. (but then it's 2 days old)
 
Anyone want to get in to order a few of these? I've been in communication with the manufacturer.

KLD20S B3 12Vdc 3/4” full bore 2-way stainless steel 304 valve, NPT threading, unit price is Fob Tianjin USD 39.50.
110Vac is more expensive, more than USD10.
Shipping cost by DHL for one valve is about USD30.

I've just asked if I can buy the motor by itself, as well as any discounts to getting 2-3 at the same time (any shipping break).

Although, at this price, even WITH that shipping it is still significantly cheaper than say a FortrezZ or a Elk valve.

--Dan
 
Hi Dan-

I might be interested in one. Have to take a quick look at my plumbing to see if I can get it in there where it would need to be!

Markd
 
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