Wife wants security in new home...I agree!

[lewisjd]

Use 110 blocks. Same idea, but cat5e compliant if you decide to patch a couple of network runs through it. Plus, it's what most people are using now, except for the old guys that have been doing it for a LONG time and don't want to switch.

I used 110-block style punchdowns for my patch panel but 66-block for my ALC wiring and security. The bridging clip concept makes more sense to me for debugging potential ALC and security sensor issues, plus there is no need for RJ45 in these applications.

I think I'm going to terminate all my sensor wiring on 66 blocks in one can, then run a small conduit over to the next can for ELK termination. I think cable management will be easier that way, plus like you added, sensor debugging.

MavRic-

what do you mean by coax splitting?

 

[AceCannon]

I think I'm going to terminate all my sensor wiring on 66 blocks in one can, then run a small conduit over to the next can for ELK termination. I think cable management will be easier that way, plus like you added, sensor debugging.

Oh yes I forgot to mention that Elk databus devices (keypads, input expanders, XSP's) I have terminated at the patch panel so as to facilitate easy connection the databus hub with cheap Monoprice patch cables. I haven't crimped a single rj45 plug as of yet, and I don't intend to.

 

[felixrosbergen]

For consistency sake i probably would have put the keypads on the 66 block as wel. A piece of cat5e with RJ45 on one end will make the connection to the DBH just fine. Similar for any remote (i.e. not in the wiring room expanders, etc.), but to each his own. Like i described above, anything that ends up in the field on a device that on or in the wall and will not likely change would be terminated on a 66 block, or terminal strip in case of speakers or somethign like that. Anything that ends up with a jack in the field (and thus highly likely to change function) would end up on a patch panel.

I didnt quite follow this 'rule' but would if i had to do it again. If you sell our house and want to take ELK and Whole house audio stuff with you then you can just disconnect everything at the 66 blocks and terminal strips. If the 'field' end is labelled decently then it should be easy for any alarm or stereo guy to hook up new 'head end' gear.

A possible expection to the above rule might be whole house audio keypads. In my case i have Nuvo and they communicate via some sort of proprietary protocol to their keypads via cat5e. I probably wouldnt want to connect that via a 66 block since thats not really rated for higher speed data communication. Since my Nuvo E6G comes with an 'All Port' which is a plate that fits in a 2 gang LV mudright and is intened to connect to all the speakers and keypads I terminated everything directly on that.

I havent worked with either 66 or 110 blocks, but for troubleshooting it does seem that 66 block is bit more flexible.

With regard to coax splitting i just meant the distribution of coax (via splitters and amps if needed) to all your TV locations. In the showcase are a few pics of this, I had to squeeze it in later and wish i had taken a more systemic approach to it.

 

[lewisjd]

With regard to coax splitting i just meant the distribution of coax (via splitters and amps if needed) to all your TV locations. In the showcase are a few pics of this, I had to squeeze it in later and wish i had taken a more systemic approach to it.

Ah, I get ya. We aren't sure whether or not we are going Dish or Cable yet. We have cable now, and I like it, but we are cancelling service while we are in temporary housing until our house is done. So the option is open on either. I'm running 6 RG6QS to the attic area with a 50' or so service loop just in case we get satellite.

As for splitting, my original plans had called for demarc to a 2 way splitter. one goes to cable modem, other to 4 port coax (amplified if needed), then out to tv locations. We only have 2 TV's right now (our kids are 1month old and 2yrs old) but are putting a theater in the basement.

if we go the dish/directv route, I will do the same essentially... satellite in to 4x8 multiswitch at panel, then out to tv locations.

 

[signal15]

If they haven't done the roof yet, have them put in one of these:

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Commdec..._Dish_Mount.htm

I installed one a few months ago, and it rocks.

 

[TXFlatLander]

If they haven't done the roof yet, have them put in one of these:

http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Commdec..._Dish_Mount.htm

I installed one a few months ago, and it rocks.

Cool find, thanks. That has always been my gripe with dish installers is they want to screw right through the shingles into the decking. If you remove the dish, you have ruined the shingles and holes in the decking. Just never gave me warm fuzzies even after patching. I will have to look into one of these in the future.

 

[felixrosbergen]

As for splitting, my original plans had called for demarc to a 2 way splitter. one goes to cable modem, other to 4 port coax (amplified if needed), then out to tv locations. We only have 2 TV's right now (our kids are 1month old and 2yrs old) but are putting a theater in the basement.

if we go the dish/directv route, I will do the same essentially... satellite in to 4x8 multiswitch at panel, then out to tv locations.

If you plan to do anything along the lines of SageTV you will need some additional ouputs to your server.

I woudl also recommend an extra Coax to the attic for FM/AM antenna. In any case i got a Nuvo system with a FM/AM & XM tuner. The FM / AX and XM can all run over the same Coax, Nuvo provided a special splitter for the attic. The FM/Am antenna is inside in the attic and the XM one is outside (signal was to weak inside). Either suppliers may not do the combined thing so maybe 2 separate coax woudl be better. In the end if you did 6 for the sateline and 2 for the radio stuff maybe a conduit woudl have been easier and cheaper.

No matter how much you pre-wire, ALWAYS ALWAYS put at least 1 or 2 2" of bigger conduits from your wiring room to the attic. You WILL find a use for them.!!

 

[lewisjd]

No matter how much you pre-wire, ALWAYS ALWAYS put at least 1 or 2 2" of bigger conduits from your wiring room to the attic. You WILL find a use for them.!!

thanks for the pointers. my house is a ranch, so i never really thought about putting conduit to the attic/crawlspace area above, but it makes sense now since the basement will be finished. i will be able to drop wires from above. i'mm have to spec out some pvc. will pvc work, or is that against standards?

 

[felixrosbergen]

PVC is usually fine, they may need to cap it to pass inspection. Ofcourse after inspection you will NOT remove the cap or anything like that right?

 

[sic0048]

It's not so much that you cannot remove the cap, you just need to add fireblock or something similar after adding wires to the conduit. A conduit without caps acts like a mini chimney during a fire. Not only can it give the fire needed fuel (air), but it also acts as a nice pathway for the fire to reach another section of the house unimpeded.

The code isn't there to be a ball breaker, it's there because trial and error (read "what we've learned from other's mistakes") has shown this is a safer method.

 

[signal15]

In some places, you have to use the grey colored PVC that is meant for electrical conduits. The stuff I bought had a flared end already on it to fit over another one, so I don't have to buy couplers.

 

[Neurorad]

Flexible PVC conduit alternatives include Carlon Resi Gard and the blue Smurf tube.