Incorporating Older ADT Sensors into New DIY Security Sys

My home was built in 1997 at which time Brinks (subsequently Broadview, subsequently ADT) installed a wired in system of magnetic open close sensors in all the doors and first floor windows, motion detectors, and smoke detectors.  I had a billing dispute with ADT some months ago concerning their monitoring fees, and the system has been deactivated (by me).  It cannot even be used for standalone monitoring due to the long ago agreement with the installer (which predated my ownership of the house in 2001).  EVERY question about why it can't be used in that mode has been asked and answered many times, so we don't need to revisit the subject here.
 
Ideally, I would like to install a new box and touchpad and just connect it up to the existing sensors via the existing (in wall) wiring, and find a new monitoring company (I understand the sensitive elements in the smoke detectors are probably beyond their useful life and would need to be replaced).  No professional I have called will even come to the house to quote a job --- some say it can't be done.
 
On another forum, I got several --- sort of cavalier -- recommendations to just acquire a system from Smarthome and do it myself.  Over at Smarthome, they weren't all that helpful, and recommended this forum as the place where I might get some help and advice.
 
Anyone out there know if this can be done?  If so, what system is recommended?  Can an advanced DIY guy who can handle a soldering iron and a multimeter figure it out?  (note: I am ambivalent about the motion sensors; if I could get everything else to operate, but not those, that would be OK).

Anyone out there know if this can be done?

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Definitely!
 

If so, what system is recommended?

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Too many choices given what you have shared.  How many zones?  EOLRs at the panel or not installed?  POTS service?  Geographical location?
 

Can an advanced DIY guy who can handle a soldering iron and a multimeter figure it out?

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Are you prepared to read every word in the installation manual three or four times, then yes!

Well, this is encouraging.  I believe there were seven zones under the old system.  To best illustrate what a low level of understanding I am starting with, what is an EOLR and POTS service?
 
I live in the DC metro area.
 
And I love reading instruction manuals.

Welcome to the Cocoontech forum Curmugeon10. Lots of friendly folks and lots of information here.  I too now consider myself a curmugeon these days. 
 
Here (well there) I volunteered to help a neighbor (windower) to upgrade her alarm panel which was installed in the 1970's (?).  It had been off service for some time.
 
It was some 3-4 years ago. It was a ranch house such that there was no basement/crawl space and just an attic to work with (limited access to it).
 
I did install an HAI OPII panel in her home.
 
Mostly used what was in place.  I went really slow though; baby step wise; testing the windows, door switches et al a zone at a time.  The zones where done in "room" fashion where as one zone covered all the windows of one room.  The doors though had all separate zones.  I did "update" a few of the switches mostly just because they looked old.  They functioned fine.  I used the old keyboard wiring for new keyboards.  I did have a bit of stuff to do in the attic; but not much.  I left the smokes alone as they were 120VAC wired with batteries.  It was in the summer and she was into not using her AC much; such that I did crank it down a bit while working there.
 
I did have one issue with the electric.  The original installation had the HV wiring (120VAC) via bx twisted around the transformer terminals and taped.  I did remove and redo the electric; putting it in the adjacent wall and used a regular single duplex box, outlet and cover.  It was a bit more time than I figured.
 
She did have a parrot; more like her child and the parrot kept me company as I did this alone while she was out of the house.  Interesting that she gave the parrot the run of the house and she did dedicate a "play" room with toys for the parrot.  It would though fly over to me and watch as I did stuff; talk a bunch and was into singing.
 
She did also have her VOIP services via her combo router box; the telco was rewired and back feed to the original phone line stuff.
 
The system is fine today and connected to central service monitoring at a reasonable monthly cost. 
 

Anyone out there know if this can be done?  If so, what system is recommended?  Can an advanced DIY guy who can handle a soldering iron and a multimeter figure it out?  (note: I am ambivalent about the motion sensors; if I could get everything else to operate, but not those, that would be OK).

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Yup; do baby steps; read a bunch here on the forum; ask questions.  I did the neighbors house in about two days; going really slow.  Most of the time was to check the older wiring and switches; fastest was to connect everything and test the panel.  EOL's took some time to test and or replace.  Connecting and testing to a new central service took 5 minutes; literally.  You will need to upgrade the panel.  I went with what I was familiar with.  The cost of an upgraded panel is very reasonable.

Curmudgeon10 said:

Well, this is encouraging.  I believe there were seven zones under the old system.  To best illustrate what a low level of understanding I am starting with, what is an EOLR and POTS service?

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EOLRs are End Of Line Resistors, which are placed in series or parallel with the contact, depending on the type of contact, to allow the alarm panel to detect a fault in the wiring.  You can test for them with a multimeter by disconnecting the wires for a zone from the alarm panel and seeing if you measure a resistance rather than a simple open or short.  EOLRs are not always used in a residential installation, so you may find that you don't have any, which would give you more options for a replacement panel.
 
Different alarm panels use different values of resistors, so if they are used in your system, you will need a replacement panel that is compatible, or you will need to replace the resistors. That may or may not be an easy task depending on how the installation was done.
 
You can read more about EOLRs here:
 
http://cocoontech.com/forums/files/file/168-end-of-line-resistors-faq/
 
POTS is Plain Old Telephone Service, i.e. a hard wired land line from the phone company vs other forms of phone service such as Voice over IP (VoIP) from your internet service provider, or cellular service from a wireless provider.

Great!  Very much appreciate this info, as it allows me to take at least a baby step forward on this project.  I have lots of time and am in no hurry.  I think I'll post a photo of my existing box to see if it provides any further clues for the next steps...  Thanks again.

Depending on which Brinks unit you have it's either a rebranded proprietary version of a Scantronic panel (lid hinges up top/bottom) or a beige metal enclosure (OEM Honeywell unit). You already know that it's a boat anchor so that's done.
 
There should be a schematic inside the panel door. All spelled out there for connections. Resistors may or may not be in the panel. Should be an easy 1:1 swap and only other part that might need consideration would be if you needed a siren driver or not, a sub $20 part.

Yup; in the old 1970's setup that I upgraded she had a very old "siren" in a box outside. 
 
It still functioned.  The box was pretty rusted but I could still open it and test and replace the siren.
 
I put in a small and louder piezo thing which was inexpensive.
 
Whatever you puchase in the upgrade; just make sure you get all of the programming stuff. 
 
Ask the gurus here as you will see most commonly utilized systems. Today you can purchase these just about anywhere.
 
I am thinking and depending on the panel that all of the programming is via numeric keyboard entries; its proprietary to the mfg of the alarm.
 
Others may have a serial computer link with software to program the panel; making it a bit easier.  Easier too is a network interface and software.
 
Most of the panels / programming is straight forward and typically written for the alarm installation company. 
 
The standards; "language" utilized to call the monitoring central station has been around forever; such that configuration is truly plug n play.

Hopefully, I've uploaded a photo of my current panel.  Does it present any particular problems or opportunities?

It would be easy for you to get a drawing of what the terminals go to for your update. 
 
Knowing the MFG/Model; just google for drawing; they will be out there somewhere in internetlandia if its not on the inside door of the alarm panel can.
 
Basically you will want to label the wires before removing the panel. 
 
You can test the wiring without the wires being screwed to the terminals by the pair one at a time.
 
You want to find a diagram like this for your specific model (unless there is one in the door).
 

Proprietary Scantronic panel.
 
Pete's "bubbles" are incorrect and could be confusing to the OP.
 
The battery, RJ31X and major system components are valid, but the rest aren't

I have a schematic, as suggested on the inside of the cover, where it is listed as a BHS-2000D control panel.  Also, below the schematic on the door, the installers taped a pre formatted 5 x 7 card that lists the zones and type of zone (exit/entry, fire, etc.).  There is a third column, labeled "number" which apparently lists the number of sensors in that zone  At the top of the card, besides the address, phone, etc., there is an entry for a CSN#.
 
The schematic shows EOLRs, 4.7K.

Deleted my JPG with bubbles.
 
I think you will be fine now regarding replacing your panel.  I mean if you know what and where on the wires you should be good to go.
 
BTW - many installers would hand write the master codes right inside or on the schematic in the door.
 
Here are a couple of manuals.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/db9hbe2jxi346e9/brinks.bhs-2000a.pdf
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ey7phuxggnxryt6/brinks.bhs-2000quickreference.pdf

Not faulting you Pete, just helping the OP get clarity.
 
The panel posted is a proprietary Scantronic unit. Also marketed in the UK. Not very common over here (I have only seen 1 other company install the non-proprietary version "in the wild").
 
There is nothing that can be done to that panel without the handheld Brinks programmer, as the OP is already aware of.
 
From memory, transformer/AC connections on far left, bell is about 1/3 of the way over on the board. Inputs are on hard right, should be 5-6 zones from memory with a hard coded fire zone.

Understood Del.  Yup; did a very quickie drawing and did label it not knowing where anything was on the panel board.