A newbies question about ActiveHome Pro
- Thread starter scubaguy699
- Start date
Guy Lavoie
Active Member
GLT, I'm trying to understand the exact intent of your question... do you mean "what type of relay is built into these modules"? The SECU16 has very small signal relays, that can only switch low current loads (0.5 amps). For higher currents, you can use an external relay. You can also get the RLY8XA which is a module with 8 built-in high current relays (up to 10 amps at 120 volts).
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
If you want to reliably switch something on and off with a relay and don't want to worry about its inductive nature, go with the Rely8 and DO NOT use the SECU16. As a matter of fact I would go so far as advise you NOT to even purchase an SECU16 and instead get an SECU16I for the digital input and use the RELY8 for the relay outputs.
Martin sells all of this stuff on his site.
Martin sells all of this stuff on his site.
scubaguy699
Member
Ok, its slowly coming together. I have read the manuals for both the Ocelot and the Powerlinc 1132. Aside from the fact that the ocelot can handle more complex commands, I don't see much different. And, unfortunately, price is a big factor in this project. I dont see myself using the controller for anything other than the tank, and becuase everything there will be a simple timer related event I dont think I would need the extra power available with the Ocelot. Am I missing something important that I should be looking for?
At this point I think I am leaning toward the Powerlinc, can anyone give me a reason to avoid this product? Thanks again for all of the guidance and advice you have given to far. Brett
At this point I think I am leaning toward the Powerlinc, can anyone give me a reason to avoid this product? Thanks again for all of the guidance and advice you have given to far. Brett
The Powerlinc is a great device, I use the 'dumb' version, and it is pretty reliable. The reason the Ocelot was recommended is because it is much more reliable to control your lights using relays, than X10. If you do want to stick with X10, the Powerlinc is probably the way to go.
rocco
Active Member
Brett, the big difference is that the Ocelot does not rely on X10. If you look closely at the setup that B. S. Robin described, you will notice there are NO X10 devices. This is where the reliability comes from.scubaguy699 said:
The Ocelot and it's I/O could be mounted with with the aquarium, with its relays directly controlling the pumps, valves and lights. You could then hookup push-buttons to inputs to invoke the CMAX programs to do things like change the water. You can be assured that when the Ocelot turns on a pump, it WILL go on. Believe me, there is no such assurance with the PowerLinc.
I don't know how much experience you have with X10, but it can be problematic. You may finally get everything working, and then one day a pump doesn't turn off because you plugged in the charger for your laptop. Those of us that have used X10 for years dream of situations where we could hardwire our application. You have that opportunity.
scubaguy699
Member
Rocco, I dont have very much experience with relays, so please bear with me. I am looking for something that is reliable, so maybe I should take another look at Oceot. Here is a link to what I am working with right now, http://www.bretthaldy.com/images/panel finished.jpg what would you do if you were in my position?
edit by electron: fixed url
edit by electron: fixed url
scubaguy699
Member
that should be "/images/panel finished.jpg" to see the picture
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
I think we are going about solving this problem backwards. Please list what you are trying to do, then lets help you with a soluton.
A schematic would be nice, but if you would rather list what needs controlled and monitored that would be OK, as long as it was detailed enough.
For example:
Control 120 VAC Pump based on time of day
Control two each 120 VAC fluorescent lights based on time of day
Control heater (120 VAC run) based on temperature of water (temp sensor range is 1 to 10 volts DC).
Control Valve X (24 Volt DC) if such and such sensor is reading below 5 volts.
etc...
A schematic would be nice, but if you would rather list what needs controlled and monitored that would be OK, as long as it was detailed enough.
For example:
Control 120 VAC Pump based on time of day
Control two each 120 VAC fluorescent lights based on time of day
Control heater (120 VAC run) based on temperature of water (temp sensor range is 1 to 10 volts DC).
Control Valve X (24 Volt DC) if such and such sensor is reading below 5 volts.
etc...
While the picture did not give details, it did lay out the thought process. I think that this guy needs something that does not require dealing with 120V raw, instead someting that plugs in. I don't know if there is such a device.....
Perhaps something that allows AC to flow through based on a contact closure - yet plugs into the wall and the device to be controlled? Is there such a thing? In conjunction with an ocelot or other device could be powerful.
Perhaps something that allows AC to flow through based on a contact closure - yet plugs into the wall and the device to be controlled? Is there such a thing? In conjunction with an ocelot or other device could be powerful.
scubaguy699
Member
Ok, a detailed 'what I want' list. I would like to have a controller automate some systems, while also allowing me to control macros manually.
For example: I have 6 different lights that come on during the day to simulate the rise and set of the sun. I would like the controller to turn these lights on in sequence at specific times of the day. This is the primary goal that I am striving for.
A secondary goal that I have for the controller would be to execute macros only when I want. Example: during a water change I would like to have the heaters turn off, the return pump turn off, and the top off pump turn off, I would then like to be able to run a different macro after I have finished the water change to reverse these steps.
All of the lighiting systems are 120 V AC, as is the return pump. I can get specific electrical information if that is required. Right now I do not know much about relays, so if there were something that I could simply plug the lighting ballasts into that could be controlled that would be best. I can learn about relays and connecting them if I have to. I am familliar enough with working with electricity to have done all of the wiring in the basement remodel that I did.
Thank you again and again for your patience and your help so far.
Brett
Using a controller to adjust the heat would be a nice feature, but is not critical as the heaters themselves have thermostats onboard.
For example: I have 6 different lights that come on during the day to simulate the rise and set of the sun. I would like the controller to turn these lights on in sequence at specific times of the day. This is the primary goal that I am striving for.
A secondary goal that I have for the controller would be to execute macros only when I want. Example: during a water change I would like to have the heaters turn off, the return pump turn off, and the top off pump turn off, I would then like to be able to run a different macro after I have finished the water change to reverse these steps.
All of the lighiting systems are 120 V AC, as is the return pump. I can get specific electrical information if that is required. Right now I do not know much about relays, so if there were something that I could simply plug the lighting ballasts into that could be controlled that would be best. I can learn about relays and connecting them if I have to. I am familliar enough with working with electricity to have done all of the wiring in the basement remodel that I did.
Thank you again and again for your patience and your help so far.
Brett
Using a controller to adjust the heat would be a nice feature, but is not critical as the heaters themselves have thermostats onboard.
scubaguy699
Member
One more thing, this is a system that is pretty popular with the reef keeping community to automate their tanks. Just thought you would like to know what has been developed for aquariums specifically.
http://www.neptunesys.com/index.htm
http://www.neptunesys.com/index.htm
E: I edited the post, so nobody knows what we are talking about.-anyways you fixed it =thanks.
Guy: Apparently, I don't even know enough to ask the question - try #2:
1. I have the ocelot with the TW523 and nothing else.
2. I don't want to use x-10.
3. I want to turn a 120V 60 watt lamp on and off, on a schedule, with cmax programming.
What PHYSICAL equipment is required to do that? How do I hook it up?
Probably a dumb question.
BSR - Yep backwards.
Scuba people - rent the stuff - or I'll buy it on ebay. NAUI certified 34 years. (God I'm old. But I started REALLY REALLY young.)
Brett - powerlinc is PRETTY reliable. If failure won't kill the fish I would use it. I like the fact you can program it and disconnect it from the computer (1132CU). Cost is always a factor - you can buy anything. Although the ocelot is mostly failsafe - and better than X-10 - nothing is really failsafe - what if the pumps break? Your link uses EXPENSIVE X-10.
Thanks all.
GLT
Guy: Apparently, I don't even know enough to ask the question - try #2:
1. I have the ocelot with the TW523 and nothing else.
2. I don't want to use x-10.
3. I want to turn a 120V 60 watt lamp on and off, on a schedule, with cmax programming.
What PHYSICAL equipment is required to do that? How do I hook it up?
Probably a dumb question.
BSR - Yep backwards.
Scuba people - rent the stuff - or I'll buy it on ebay. NAUI certified 34 years. (God I'm old. But I started REALLY REALLY young.)
Brett - powerlinc is PRETTY reliable. If failure won't kill the fish I would use it. I like the fact you can program it and disconnect it from the computer (1132CU). Cost is always a factor - you can buy anything. Although the ocelot is mostly failsafe - and better than X-10 - nothing is really failsafe - what if the pumps break? Your link uses EXPENSIVE X-10.
Thanks all.
GLT
scubaguy699
Member
GLT- yeah, everything is expensive when you put the word Aquarium in it. Just like scuba equipment, as soon as it is marketed it to a specialized group, they feel like they can jack the prices up. I dont think a light not coming on would be a disasterous situation, I mean in the real world eclipses do happen, right??
Guy Lavoie
Active Member
GLT, the two relay modules I mentioned use the adnet bus between the Ocelot and themselves, so no X10 is involved. Just go to www.appdig.com and follow the links to the Adicon modules and you will see the SECU16, RLY8XA and other expansion devices available, along with downloadable datasheets. The modules are available from anyone selling ADI products, such as Automatedoutlet, etc.
