It doesn't solve everything you asked, but you can tie the F-key to an unused output and then use rules to set the output to follow whatever logic you want. In my case I have a single F-key flashing to indicate any of my garage doors being open. Pressing it closes the open ones.
Alarm status indicator LED with ELK M1G?
- Thread starter dgarnett
- Start date
It doesn't solve everything you asked, but you can tie the F-key to an unused output and then use rules to set the output to follow whatever logic you want. In my case I have a single F-key flashing to indicate any of my garage doors being open. Pressing it closes the open ones.
123
Senior Member
The point of my first post was that if you're going to run a wire to the garage, a speaker, as opposed to an indicator light, offers a great deal more flexibility. I put small speakers being the KP1 keypads, one in the hallway and two in the garage (noisier environment). Blinking function keys are fine (I use them too) but rather limited in what they can convey. Speakers are cheap and allow you to be informed of a multitude of conditions.
True, however speakers are only suited for a certain enviroment, and they're great for a dynamic event, or if you tie a rule to fire an announcement (such as after X time if door Y is open, announce B) but if the event has the possibility to be static for an extended period, then speakers tend to lose effectiveness.
In the case of bolt monitoring, it's a tough item to weigh compared to what else would be monitored, but I've found that automating the OHD's and then providing indication on the F key for status to be a pretty nice thing to offer most. In the case of deadbolt monitoring, you could leave the F-key function as the normal panic events and then use an illumination event for monitoring, but then it becomes a balancing act for sensory overload and having "normal" people decipher what's going on, but in the case of the M1, then you could just spit text based on rules so the KP displays bolt status instead.
Guess it depends on how much information you want to throw out there, just like a car....idiot lights vs. gauges.
In the case of bolt monitoring, it's a tough item to weigh compared to what else would be monitored, but I've found that automating the OHD's and then providing indication on the F key for status to be a pretty nice thing to offer most. In the case of deadbolt monitoring, you could leave the F-key function as the normal panic events and then use an illumination event for monitoring, but then it becomes a balancing act for sensory overload and having "normal" people decipher what's going on, but in the case of the M1, then you could just spit text based on rules so the KP displays bolt status instead.
Guess it depends on how much information you want to throw out there, just like a car....idiot lights vs. gauges.
I use the Iris system that utilizes zwave and other similar technologies. One of the items they sell is a "smart plug". It plugs into any electrical outlet and then you can plug any electrical device into it. You can schedule a timer with it, turn it on or off via phone or by rule. Simply plug a light into the outlet then set up a rule to turn the outlet on or off based on the status of the alarm.
This is what I do. (Note its plugged into a Zigbee outlet so no wires.)
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/anog2/media/8fe95053-dc0b-4f41-bc60-bcc15bbac3d2_zpswegxxkfj.jpg.html
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/anog2/media/8fe95053-dc0b-4f41-bc60-bcc15bbac3d2_zpswegxxkfj.jpg.html
I like to pick up this older post as I have a similar situation. The back door does not have a keypad in sight and we always use this door to let the dogs out. I like to run a wire to the door (simple) to display a green/red representation of the armed status. A few questions.
jpmargis mentions that this can be wired directly while DELInstallations recommends to use a relay. I have nothing yet on the OUTPUT from the main M1, only a few outputs are managed from the M1XOVR in a different building. Would I still be needing to use relays for these two LED's?
How would a wiring diagram look like if I follow DELInstallations recommendation. I would need a separate power supply for the LED's - right?
jpmargis mentions that this can be wired directly while DELInstallations recommends to use a relay. I have nothing yet on the OUTPUT from the main M1, only a few outputs are managed from the M1XOVR in a different building. Would I still be needing to use relays for these two LED's?
How would a wiring diagram look like if I follow DELInstallations recommendation. I would need a separate power supply for the LED's - right?
DELInstallations said:
jpmargis said:I like the Dialight 607 series. No resistor required and they can be driven directly from a programmable output.
tonti said:
I have two LEDs wired directly off my M1XOVR programmable 12 VDC outputs without relays and without a separate power supply.
One LED is on whenever the system is armed (and off if disarmed), and the other LED is on if non-alarm announcements have been muted. I can't remember if I used a resistor or not, but I think they were rated for the Elk's 12 volts.
As jpmargis (and others above) suggested, you could also wire LEDs directly into one of the outputs of the M1 J16 Programmable Outputs without relays (and subject to any current draw limitations on your M1) without external power.
You could also use the relays on your M1XOVR (or a separate relay like the Elk-924). The M1XOVR relay would be triggered by the appropriate M1XOVR output, and you'd run positive from the M1XOVR or the Elk to the CMN on the relay, the NO on the relay to the positive (anode) on the LED (with resistor if necessary), and the LED negative to the ground on the M1XOVR or the M1. With a separate relay, you'd bring both positive and negative from the M1 AUX to the relay positive and negative, and the the positive would also be jumper-ed to the CMN on that relay. The NO from the relay would be wired the same way as above. The trigger (positive) for the relay would come from the appropriate programmable output on the M1.
In any case, you'll need to write the appropriate rules.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
A co-worker uses OUT7-16 (?) to power LEDs for this exact purpose; no additional hardware added. He placed the LEDs in his garage - they can see the status as the enter/exit the home and use their keyfob to arm/disarm accordingly.
If you are going to go to the trouble of pulling to the entrance a cable to illuminate an LED then why not just pull a cat cable and install a keypad at the entrance where you are having the problem? In my mind a keypad should have been installed at the busiest entrance/exit in the first place. Then you can install an LED outside the entrance and connect it to the output on that keypad.
Mike.
Mike.
KPAS would be my suggestion, easy enough to see status and cheaper than a full KP. Bicolored LED's for me. I have a bunch sitting on my counter at the moment. Integral resistor and high domed units. Think they're about 5/8 in diameter press fit panel type. Just need to solder a pigtail to them.
I've been trying to put something together to act as an alarm indicator for quite some time and finally got around to doing it. Mine is based on a SparkFun Thing Dev and a multicolor LED. I have a couple of spots in my house where I can't easily run wires for a keypad, and these little guys ran me less than $25 including the case as opposed to over $100 for one of the slim-line keypads. I don't really need a keypad at the three locations where I put the indicators, I just need something to warn me not to accidentally open the patio doors (and one particular window) if the alarm is armed.
The build is really simple, here's a photo of what I did (click the image for a larger version):
The LED leads are connected to pins 4, 12, and 13 and the common lead is connected though a resister to 3V.
The Arduino code that drives it is fairly simple as well. This uses my ISY994i to talk to the Elk, but it should be pretty straight-forward to have this talk directly to the M1XEP as well. Most of this code is to play with the LED color, the bit that talks to the ISY is really straight-forward. You can see the code on github.
The build is really simple, here's a photo of what I did (click the image for a larger version):
The LED leads are connected to pins 4, 12, and 13 and the common lead is connected though a resister to 3V.
The Arduino code that drives it is fairly simple as well. This uses my ISY994i to talk to the Elk, but it should be pretty straight-forward to have this talk directly to the M1XEP as well. Most of this code is to play with the LED color, the bit that talks to the ISY is really straight-forward. You can see the code on github.
BaduFamily
Active Member
that's a sweet little Thing right there. Thanks for all the comments in your .iso
how are you powering that puppy?
how are you powering that puppy?
