You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Another HA technology thread...
- Thread starter roussell
- Start date
UPC also has this portable programmer available (Simply Automated and PCS make them) to allow you to program devices without a PC. Also, a HAI panel can program HAI UPB switches without a computer.
I had a large X-10 installation and have switched to UPB. My X-10 switches were getting old and wearing out, so it required a change. UPB switches can be in the $55-75 range which is on the expensive side, but like I say, Frys carries a "cheaper" switch from Simply Automated. Its funny because the Fry's switch is labeled with a different model number than the US11-30 Simply Automated Switches that cost about $20 more, but they both are actually the same thing. UPStart software recognizes the differences, and restricts the cheaper switch to a single paddle, whereby the US11-30 switches support two paddles.
UPB is nice because, once set up, it can do a whole lot without any controller. Its been pretty reliable, but you most likely do need a bridge in your panel box, and there are lots of tricks to this.
If you go with UPB, be very careful if you decide to go with the UPB Simply Automated remotes. They are junk in my opinion. Plastic case that deforms when installed, and they couldn't even figure out how to make the remote's green LED match the color and brightness of their normal switch LEDs. There must have been some language barriers in Taiwan when these were build. The solution is simple. Use a regular switch instead (w/o hooking up the load) and link that switch to any other switch. This means you can change the linking with programming, which is pretty cool, so your remote can now be a remote to any switch in your house.
On the switches, I think the HAI UPB switches seem the most solid and have the best feel, but they are a bit more expensive. The Simply Automated switches have changable button configurations, which is handy, but the switches have a very cheapish click feel. A few other companies now make switches also.
UPB works fine with X-10, but you need to remove any X-10 repeaters, and add a UPB bridge which works for X-10 as well.
UPB has many types of switches, and one of the best features, in my opinion, was that many switches can be set to dimmable (for regular lights) or non-dimmable for ceiling fans and fluorescents with just some quick programming. Nice for someone used to different X-10 switches for dimmable and non-dimmable.
Would I do it again? I think so. Z-wave has lots of options so that may be an alternatives. Insteon I'm not so sure about because only one company supports it, so if they ever discontinue, ...
I had a large X-10 installation and have switched to UPB. My X-10 switches were getting old and wearing out, so it required a change. UPB switches can be in the $55-75 range which is on the expensive side, but like I say, Frys carries a "cheaper" switch from Simply Automated. Its funny because the Fry's switch is labeled with a different model number than the US11-30 Simply Automated Switches that cost about $20 more, but they both are actually the same thing. UPStart software recognizes the differences, and restricts the cheaper switch to a single paddle, whereby the US11-30 switches support two paddles.
UPB is nice because, once set up, it can do a whole lot without any controller. Its been pretty reliable, but you most likely do need a bridge in your panel box, and there are lots of tricks to this.
If you go with UPB, be very careful if you decide to go with the UPB Simply Automated remotes. They are junk in my opinion. Plastic case that deforms when installed, and they couldn't even figure out how to make the remote's green LED match the color and brightness of their normal switch LEDs. There must have been some language barriers in Taiwan when these were build. The solution is simple. Use a regular switch instead (w/o hooking up the load) and link that switch to any other switch. This means you can change the linking with programming, which is pretty cool, so your remote can now be a remote to any switch in your house.
On the switches, I think the HAI UPB switches seem the most solid and have the best feel, but they are a bit more expensive. The Simply Automated switches have changable button configurations, which is handy, but the switches have a very cheapish click feel. A few other companies now make switches also.
UPB works fine with X-10, but you need to remove any X-10 repeaters, and add a UPB bridge which works for X-10 as well.
UPB has many types of switches, and one of the best features, in my opinion, was that many switches can be set to dimmable (for regular lights) or non-dimmable for ceiling fans and fluorescents with just some quick programming. Nice for someone used to different X-10 switches for dimmable and non-dimmable.
Would I do it again? I think so. Z-wave has lots of options so that may be an alternatives. Insteon I'm not so sure about because only one company supports it, so if they ever discontinue, ...
Its funny because the Fry's switch is labeled with a different model number than the US11-30 Simply Automated Switches that cost about $20 more, but they both are actually the same thing. UPStart software recognizes the differences, and restricts the cheaper switch to a single paddle, whereby the US11-30 switches support two paddles.
There's a thread on this board that shows you how to work around that. It involves using an older UPStart version that can be set to make the HAL switches look like SAI switches. I don't remember the details.
I've been really happy with the UPB switches. The Automation Panel vendors have some more work to do in order to fully utilize the technology's features, but that should come along as both products mature.
There's a thread on this board that shows you how to work around that. It involves using an older UPStart version that can be set to make the HAL switches look like SAI switches. I don't remember the details.
You have to add the switches with an older version of UPStart, that doesn't know the hardware is different. The new versions of UPStart will honor it. I didn't mention that because its a bit of a kludge, besides I rarely use they double switches anyway, and where I do, I just use a US11-30 switch.
But on an interesting note, the HAL switches aren't even sold on the HAL web site. They are only sold at Fry's or Outpost.com (they are currently backordered at Outpost.)
Simply Automated has a UPB controller/scheduler. It takes 5 minutes to learn and a timer can be created in less than a minute. No computer interface needed. Check it out:
http://simply-automated.com/products/sa_UCS.htm
I am currently converting a 10,000sqft home from x10 to UPB. We are doing it in stages, starting with the problem areas. We are not using a central controller at this time. In order to control the x10 and the UPB together I purchased the Foard x10 to UPB bridge/controller. I am controlling all the x10 now with the UPB timer through the Foard bridge. If you are thinking about getting the bridge I would suggest the Bridge/controller. It is a little more money but you can keep your computer connected to it while it is connected to the UPB PIM and use it's troublshooting tools. You can track x10 and UPB signals side by side.
http://www.homecontrols.com/cgi-bin/hci.pl...earch_id=107246
I was considering the Chameleo x10 to UPB translater however it currently does not handle links. (They say that will happen soon and the unit will be upgradeable)
http://www.smarthome.com/22270.HTML
http://simply-automated.com/products/sa_UCS.htm
I am currently converting a 10,000sqft home from x10 to UPB. We are doing it in stages, starting with the problem areas. We are not using a central controller at this time. In order to control the x10 and the UPB together I purchased the Foard x10 to UPB bridge/controller. I am controlling all the x10 now with the UPB timer through the Foard bridge. If you are thinking about getting the bridge I would suggest the Bridge/controller. It is a little more money but you can keep your computer connected to it while it is connected to the UPB PIM and use it's troublshooting tools. You can track x10 and UPB signals side by side.
http://www.homecontrols.com/cgi-bin/hci.pl...earch_id=107246
I was considering the Chameleo x10 to UPB translater however it currently does not handle links. (They say that will happen soon and the unit will be upgradeable)
http://www.smarthome.com/22270.HTML
A few more thoughts on the x10 to UPB project I am working on.... The x10 swiches in this home can receive up to 16 x10 codes and therefore whole house scenes can be created with each x10 code.
Is this how you use x10 or do you have to send individual codes to each switch?
In this house I have several 4 button x10 controller/wallswitches that sends 4 scenes, Party, Evening, Entertain, and Bedtime.
With the new x10 to UPB bridge the codes sent by the 4 button controller go to the bridge and the bridge sends both UPB Links and also x10 to devices that can not be connected to the x10 scene control. This added functions not availabe before on the x10 side.
Currently the house has approximately 70 x-10 light switches (PCS Scenemaster), modules, and receptacles. And now a dozen UPB devices.
Is this how you use x10 or do you have to send individual codes to each switch?
In this house I have several 4 button x10 controller/wallswitches that sends 4 scenes, Party, Evening, Entertain, and Bedtime.
With the new x10 to UPB bridge the codes sent by the 4 button controller go to the bridge and the bridge sends both UPB Links and also x10 to devices that can not be connected to the x10 scene control. This added functions not availabe before on the x10 side.
Currently the house has approximately 70 x-10 light switches (PCS Scenemaster), modules, and receptacles. And now a dozen UPB devices.
I also have the UPB "controller/schedular" I guess I was expecting a bit more user friendlyness for $100+ Its certainly a work-in-progress, at best. For example there is a button on the right labeled "function." What does it do? It controls the backlighting. So why didn't they label it "backlighting?" Duh.
Similar threads
- Replies
- 17
- Views
- 3K
- Replies
- 1
- Views
- 1K