Apologies and another question
- Thread starter mikefamig
- Start date
Check your network, cabling and similar. The panel is telling you where the issue is, and it's not the Elk hardware. I literally get zero ethernet troubles on my system at home or my bench. I have a customer's site that gets them relatively often (few times a year) that are reported as module failure to the CS. All has to do with their ISP (Comcast I believe).mikefamig said:
As far as speakers and the like, that's your perogative, but if it were me, I'd just do it the right way the first time. Just because you only want to use the speakers for X or Y doesn't mean that can't or won't change, and honestly, it does away with a lot of the postive items the TWA board can do. You're going to be limited in OUT1 and OUT2 and how you drive them to do what you may or may not want to do. Again, I don't know your design criteria or what is passable or not, but I deal with absolutes when designing a system.
Do you know what triggers a ethernet trouble? Is it data oriented like packet retransmission? Couldn't it be hardware in the way of the cable between the xep and control? Or trouble with the xep itself? I wish I knew what the control monitors that will trigger the error report. It's hard to just assume that the problem is outside the elk equipment.DELInstallations said:
I ran a home run ethernet cable from my gateway to the xep.
Mike.
EDIT
I also tested the cable when I terminated both ends. It could however be ATT Uverse problems if the error is data oriented.
DELDELInstallations said:
I am very close to removing the TWA permanently. I just can't justify adding a third power supply and battery to my system to support it. Can you think of any other way? I put the p212s back in the garage so I can't use it to power the twa (too far from control) and the control itself can't support it.
When I bought the TWA I made the mistake of assuming that I would be able to use it to listen-in over the internet. The audio amps are nice but were never my first concern. The only use that I have for the audio so far has been to turn the volume down low for testing an alarm condition. I think that it would be nice to have for informational voice chimes using rules but it just doesn't seem to fit my design.
Do you or anyone else have any clever ideas on making it work without adding another backup battery to the system. What does a traditional installation of the TWA look like?
Mike.
EDIT
Or maybe I'll just go get another p212s and 8ah battery and it will be there for future expansion.
Don't get another 212S.
Get something slightly better and more robust. While it's a nice device per se, it's just as easy to install a supervised power supply with enough headroom to support a large battery load and output power.
The Altronix ones I've referenced elsewhere would be what I'd suggest. I'm putting one in this weekend at a home I'm trimming out, 4A supervised with 16 PTC protected outputs/distribution board.
Only thing I can't do is drive an output and I need a hardwired zone for supervision, but it's a heck of a lot better way to fly than multiple 212S' (says the integrator with 2 in his house, on top of at least 3 other various supplies).
If you can scrounge an Altronix can, I'm sure I've got boards around. This would be more power than most systems would need, but it would take care of any need for PD-9's or the like: http://www.altronix.com/products/product.php?name=AL400ULXPD16CB
Get something slightly better and more robust. While it's a nice device per se, it's just as easy to install a supervised power supply with enough headroom to support a large battery load and output power.
The Altronix ones I've referenced elsewhere would be what I'd suggest. I'm putting one in this weekend at a home I'm trimming out, 4A supervised with 16 PTC protected outputs/distribution board.
Only thing I can't do is drive an output and I need a hardwired zone for supervision, but it's a heck of a lot better way to fly than multiple 212S' (says the integrator with 2 in his house, on top of at least 3 other various supplies).
If you can scrounge an Altronix can, I'm sure I've got boards around. This would be more power than most systems would need, but it would take care of any need for PD-9's or the like: http://www.altronix.com/products/product.php?name=AL400ULXPD16CB
DELInstallations said:
I wish that one large ps near the control in the house would work for me.
I need more than one aux power supply and battery because of the physical location of the devices. The twa needs to be near the controller because of the connectors from the control but the control does not make enough power to carry it. Therefore I need aux power there. If I put a 4 amp supply there I still have the problem of the voltage drop along the 250' line to the garage. That means that I need another power supply in the garage.
Am I missing something?
Mike.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
What gauge is the wiring to the garage?
I don't have a suitable wire to the garage and I find it easier to put the ps in the garage than to pull another wire. And even with an 18 gauge wire or so there would be a pretty large voltage drop in the case of an alarm when there is a lot of draw on the system.BraveSirRobbin said:
Mike.
EDIT
To answer your question, I have cat5e to the garage.
3-4 batteries every 5 years really isn't that much upkeep. If you install larger units, the cost can actually be offset by the scrap value, you'd be amazed.
If you're planning on putting any level of equipment in the house, then I'd put a unit like the Altronix in and call it a day.
I'd probably look at selling or returning the 212 if I were you. Wrong unit for the application.
Also, if you had an Altronix in the house, assuming you have a heavy enough pair for the total current draw, there is a trimpot on the supply to adjust output voltage. Easy enough to push the output up to get you a solid 12 or higher at the other end. Very common to do to account for voltage drops. The only thing you can't change is the ampacity of the wire feeding out there.
If you're planning on putting any level of equipment in the house, then I'd put a unit like the Altronix in and call it a day.
I'd probably look at selling or returning the 212 if I were you. Wrong unit for the application.
Also, if you had an Altronix in the house, assuming you have a heavy enough pair for the total current draw, there is a trimpot on the supply to adjust output voltage. Easy enough to push the output up to get you a solid 12 or higher at the other end. Very common to do to account for voltage drops. The only thing you can't change is the ampacity of the wire feeding out there.
Depends.
If you have the ampacity on a pair to the garage you'd be able to use the trimpot to goose the output voltage up to contend with the voltage drop. To counteract this at the near end to get the output back into spec you would add a few diodes in series with the output to drop the voltage down back to being within spec. If you have distribution boards, you'd have to pre-plan the loads out and which board or point gets the higher voltage vs. the "spec" output or if there's just a single output, it's easy. As an aside, plenty of camera power supplies have 24VAC terminals and 28VAC terminals for just this purpose.
It's not as huge of a deal as you think it is. Soldering iron, trip to Radio Shack (hopefully they have the parts) or a decent electronics store, some cable, some solder and shrink tube and it's done and you'd be on a single supply located within the house.
If you have the ampacity on a pair to the garage you'd be able to use the trimpot to goose the output voltage up to contend with the voltage drop. To counteract this at the near end to get the output back into spec you would add a few diodes in series with the output to drop the voltage down back to being within spec. If you have distribution boards, you'd have to pre-plan the loads out and which board or point gets the higher voltage vs. the "spec" output or if there's just a single output, it's easy. As an aside, plenty of camera power supplies have 24VAC terminals and 28VAC terminals for just this purpose.
It's not as huge of a deal as you think it is. Soldering iron, trip to Radio Shack (hopefully they have the parts) or a decent electronics store, some cable, some solder and shrink tube and it's done and you'd be on a single supply located within the house.
BSR and DEL
It just occurred to me that I have a 16/4 speaker wire between the buildings and I only used two of the leads for the twa speaker. I can use the other awg16 pair for power. It only runs from building to building so I'll have to extend it from the wall of the house to the M1 but that is no big deal.
Mike.
It just occurred to me that I have a 16/4 speaker wire between the buildings and I only used two of the leads for the twa speaker. I can use the other awg16 pair for power. It only runs from building to building so I'll have to extend it from the wall of the house to the M1 but that is no big deal.
Mike.
