Argh! Life was simple when it was only x10, now I am lost
- Thread starter Jvivek
- Start date
If you have your Harmony 880 drive an IR blaster it is very easy to interface with UPB using the PCS 6 button UPB controller with IR (table top) Here I do not know why Automated Outlet doesn't list this. It can be purchased from Home Controls, San Diego. A little Pricy but the only thing with direct IR to UPB control. Just place the blaster and the UPB controller a few inchs apart and you have IR control of 6 "scenes". I have a Pronto 1000 with RF-IR doing this in a AV rack. ( I just read Steves Post on an IR UPB solution. Sound like there are 2 options)
I would suggest the Simply Automated products for versitility and options. If you have a Fry's near by you could pick up switches, Lamp Modules, and Appliance Modules for under $40 each. The Fry's near me still has them.
Download the FREE UPstart software Here Once you program your devices your system does not need a computer. There is a short learning curve to program the switches. But there is a lot of experience Here on Cocoontech, so ask a lot of questions. We will get you through it.
Before jumping in with both feet I would sugges you purchase an evaluation kit with a computer interface module and at least a lamp module. With that and UPstart you can do a quick survey of your home. The software will give you signal strengh infromation around you home. UPB is a robust protocal that can work trouble free out of the box. There are a few items that can cause a problem but most homes do not have them. Devices with large capacitors such as whole house power backup systems. As you probably have read a few here have had problems with outside interference.
Dave
I would suggest the Simply Automated products for versitility and options. If you have a Fry's near by you could pick up switches, Lamp Modules, and Appliance Modules for under $40 each. The Fry's near me still has them.
Download the FREE UPstart software Here Once you program your devices your system does not need a computer. There is a short learning curve to program the switches. But there is a lot of experience Here on Cocoontech, so ask a lot of questions. We will get you through it.
Before jumping in with both feet I would sugges you purchase an evaluation kit with a computer interface module and at least a lamp module. With that and UPstart you can do a quick survey of your home. The software will give you signal strengh infromation around you home. UPB is a robust protocal that can work trouble free out of the box. There are a few items that can cause a problem but most homes do not have them. Devices with large capacitors such as whole house power backup systems. As you probably have read a few here have had problems with outside interference.
Dave
Do not think of a virtual 3 way as a 3 way circuit. think of it as two separate switch installs. One switch handels the load and the other switch only is powered with Line hot and neutral. You can make any switch control any UPB load in the house as long as you have room in the box. I used the US 240 with a top rocker and 4 buttons. The top rocker controlled the local load and the 4 buttons control any UPB devices or scenes. this confiuration is pictured Here
Dave
Dave
Steve
Senior Member
Probably because you can do the same thing a bit nicer at AO. Just buy the keypad and an SAI tabletop enclosure and you're set. The SAI tabletop enclosure is nicer than the PCS one imho.
Steve,
I totally agree that the SA table top case is much more attractive and the PCS (wall mount) controller will fit in it fine. PCS says the IR receiver in the table top unit is more sensitive than the one on the wall mount. Also pointing an IR blaster at the wall mount in a table top SA table top unit my be problemmatic. I use the PCS table top inside a rack so it is not visible.
Dave
I totally agree that the SA table top case is much more attractive and the PCS (wall mount) controller will fit in it fine. PCS says the IR receiver in the table top unit is more sensitive than the one on the wall mount. Also pointing an IR blaster at the wall mount in a table top SA table top unit my be problemmatic. I use the PCS table top inside a rack so it is not visible.
Dave
AO-Brandon
Active Member
they now use the same table top enclosure, both now have the IR reciever in the front. :blink:
I am in Canada, I wish Fry store existed here. those prices are cheaper then anywhere else.
We have clean power here, the street lamps are off a different circuit then the home lines, the house is 4 year old, I don't really want to spend too much money on this stuff, makes me want to drop upb and just choose Insteon but reading this forum, I know I will be better off with UPB but its expensive. I am still little worried of what I should do with the remote, either use ir or get a rf remote. jury is still out, I am going to read this thread over again.
how close to the border are you?
far, I am in Calgary, Alberta. Canada
The X10-RF to UPB converter is shown here.
The RF remote can be any X10-RF remote, from the standard Palmpad remote that controls only the lighting, to one that goes on your keychain that controls only lighting, to one that controls both lights and AV equipment.
Furthermore, the converter allows greater flexibility by reading other RF sources besides remotes, such as motion sensors. However, be aware that the receiver does not read X10 RF Security codes, so those that require a "security transceiver" will not work with the converter.
The RF remote can be any X10-RF remote, from the standard Palmpad remote that controls only the lighting, to one that goes on your keychain that controls only lighting, to one that controls both lights and AV equipment.
Furthermore, the converter allows greater flexibility by reading other RF sources besides remotes, such as motion sensors. However, be aware that the receiver does not read X10 RF Security codes, so those that require a "security transceiver" will not work with the converter.
