Choosing door strikes

[Del91574]

Mike, you can give me a call sometime if you want. I'll be a safety net if you need it.
 
@ driven: The only item you really need to look at in the case of access control on the door is the physical hardware and it's operation. The rest, such as cut out, size, type, etc. can be worked around. In your case, the solution for the strike would be to get a thumbknob override on the hardware itself. Inside always free but outside locked unless overridden. What you don't do is have the door automatically unlock for an extended period, 3-5 seconds is plenty to say the least and you use the contact as the DSM (if you're not using an Elk KAM) to trigger the relock once the door opens.
 
After working on the first hundred doors or so it becomes much easier.

 

[mikefamig]

You need to consider if you're going to have something push the deadlatch back and have the bolt clear the face of the door or if you're going to be dependent on a ramp design or make a face cut for the bolt to pass through. Also something that allows for some slop or misalignment.

 
I don't understand what you are saying about pushing the deadlatch back or being dependent on a ramp design. On first sight I would assume that you need to push the deadlatch back.
 
Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

I think that I see the big picture now. I should use a run of the mill handset that is of the type that is  always unlocked from the inside (as most residential handsets are). Then leave it normally in the locked position and install a fail-secure strike that unlatches the door when power is applied. I am also aware that pre-load on the door can interfere with the operation if the strike.
 
What I don't understand is how to deal with the dead-latch plunger. Won't that prevent the strike from working or can the proper strike handle a dead latch?
 
Mike.

 

[pgray007]

This is extremely helpful as I'm looking at solving the exact same problem (detached shop, wood framing, etc).

 

[mikefamig]

This is extremely helpful as I'm looking at solving the exact same problem (detached shop, wood framing, etc).

 
and it's more complicated than I expected it to be, another can of worms.

 

[pgray007]

I don't think I've ever said "wow, that was easier than I thought it would be!" With this hobby!!!

This is extremely helpful as I'm looking at solving the exact same problem (detached shop, wood framing, etc).
 
and it's more complicated than I expected it to be, another can of worms.

 

[Del91574]

and it's more complicated than I expected it to be, another can of worms.

Give me a call, really.

I'd suggest the Securitron unit I posted, unless you're OK with a face cut on the door.

 

[pgray007]

Is the Securitron unit you mentioned this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Securitron-UnLatch-Mortise-Electric-Strike/dp/B000HQAR82 (Unlatch mortise electric strike)
 
 
 
or "
Securitron UnLatch Motorized Strike for Cylindrical Locks, 12VDC"
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HQ4I3C/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000HQAR82&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=09W40QYM413BC3EJ4BF9#descriptionAndDetails
 ​
 
 
Do these units basically "push in" the cylinder of the door, thus popping it open a if it's under pressure even with a momentary activation? This seems like exactly what you'd want for our application (wood-frame, AL door on a detached shop/garage). Would you basically install this unit, and then leave the door knob "locked" and the deadbolt "unlocked" for this unit to do its thing?
 
​Thanks, this is very helpful.

Give me a call, really.

I'd suggest the Securitron unit I posted, unless you're OK with a face cut on the door.

 

 

[Del91574]

Since Mike is relatively local to me and in proximity to a large account I work on, it's easy for me to either peek at his application or just discuss the installation with him.
 
As far as the lock itself, it depends on the hardware at the door. I have a '50's ranch with Yale mortise locks/handlesets and retrofitted cylindrical locks on my attached via breezeway garage, so it really comes down to the application itself.

Any time you're dealing with hardware/strikes, the long and hard rule is the interior handle must operate the bolt no matter what and allow free egress; you are not allowed to inhibit or restrict egress or have it done via electronic means.
 
The downside of the Securitron units would be they require constant power in addition to a separate trigger input, so 3 conductors vs. 2 for a normal strike.
 
Deadbolt usage varies. If you have electric, wifi or battery, you could do as you wish, assuming no pressure on the door to hamper the bolt moving. I've modified some older Kwikset units to get rid of the battery and allow remote trigger input, but not something I'd do anywhere else but my own house (I have an outdoor knox box with keys in it for override).

 

[mikefamig]

Give me a call, really.

 
I'll do that today, it'll be good to talk to you after all this time.
 

I'd suggest the Securitron unit I posted, unless you're OK with a face cut on the door.

 
I'm not ready to do the job just yet, I'm busy with things but plan to get to it before too long. I like the simplicity of the Securitron Unlatch but am curious what kind of cut would be necessary in the door for the other two strikes that you mention? Would it require special tools and skills? The door is made of wood and has a standard cheapo cylinder latch that was installed poorly by the builder.
 
One concern that I have at this point is that the strike requires constant power to keep it open. Initially I was thinking of something more like a bolt that I could open with an Elk rule and it would stay open. On the other hand it would be fine if it could stay open for a few minutes to give me time to walk down to the garage and get in before it returns to the locked position.
 
Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

DEL
 
I read the install instructions for the Securitron Unlatch and it requires 3 amps peak current while I only have 2 amp supply to the garage. I have a Altronix 6 amp supply at the house with three 2-amp outputs (distribution board) but only have one of the 2-amp outputs supplying the garage. Do you know if the Altronix supply would allow me to connect two of it's outputs in parallel to create a 4 amp supply for the garage without damaging the power supply?
 
Mike.

 

[pgray007]

For anyone else following this thread, the instructions on the Unlatch really helped understand what is going on:
http://www.securitron.com/Other/Securitron/Documents/InstallationInstructions/ElectromechanicalLocks/UNL_Series_500-18300.pdf

 

[mikefamig]

For anyone else following this thread, the instructions on the Unlatch really helped understand what is going on:
http://www.securitron.com/Other/Securitron/Documents/InstallationInstructions/ElectromechanicalLocks/UNL_Series_500-18300.pdf

 
Yes it is from that that I learned about the power requirements. The strike uses a peak 3 amps when the motor is running and 40ma when it is "at rest" and I am wondering if it returns to 40ma when held in the unlocked position as well as in the locked position.
 
Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

For anyone else following this thread, the instructions on the Unlatch really helped understand what is going on:
http://www.securitron.com/Other/Securitron/Documents/InstallationInstructions/ElectromechanicalLocks/UNL_Series_500-18300.pdf

That documentation is so well done that it has put the Securitron on the top of my list at this point.
 
Mike.

 

[Del91574]

DEL
 
I read the install instructions for the Securitron Unlatch and it requires 3 amps peak current while I only have 2 amp supply to the garage. I have a Altronix 6 amp supply at the house with three 2-amp outputs (distribution board) but only have one of the 2-amp outputs supplying the garage. Do you know if the Altronix supply would allow me to connect two of it's outputs in parallel to create a 4 amp supply for the garage without damaging the power supply?
 
Mike.

Save the headaches. Put a separate supply in the garage just for the lock. Doesn't need to be common with the host panel. All you'd need to do is trigger via relay using the field supply. Look at the AWG and distance requirements. Locks don't need battery backup either.
 
You really wouldn't be using these to keep the door unlocked but closed. Not really designed for it. You'd need a face cut strike to allow the bolt to pass through it.