Controlling an Outdoor Electrical Outlet

[mtwalsh367]

I am installing outdoor low voltage lighting where the transformer will hang on the exterior wall next to an outlet. The transformer has an internal timer but I would like to tie this in with the rest of my Elk and Insteon controlled home so I have more control than just the built in timeer. I am looking for advice on the best way to proceed. My existing outdoor outlets are GFCI and are installed in a single gang box with large weatherproof covers that allow room for a plug and cord. I live in Missouri so we have some cold weather and much humidity during the summer.

Here are some of the approaches I am considering.
- Use a appliance linc plug in type controller, assuming one will fit under the weatherproof cover. I don't know how well one of these will hold up to cold and humidity
- Use an in-line controller and wire it in directly before the outlet (I might have to install a bigger box to hold both the in-line controller and the outlet). This would be more protected than the appliance linc but would still be subject to some cold and humidity.
- Install new outside outlets and wire them to be controlled by switches located inside the house. Obviously this is more work than the past two options.
- Other options?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Matt

 

[WayneW]

I mounted a couple Icon (Insteon) on/off switches outside in a weatherproof box with the bulky, translucent in-use type covers. I cut the end off the low voltage transformers and hardwired it. I wanted local control for testing and the in-line modules weren't available when I did this. The Icon switches are fed power from a GFCI and work fine. These are now controlled via the HA system and multiple keypadlincs.

FYI, I am in Florida, so have to deal with heat, humidity, rain and lightning, but no cold. they have only been in for a few months, so I cannot give long term durability reports yet.

 

[upstatemike]

I have used plug-in modules and they were fine for a year or two but eventually started to corrode.

My current setup is Relay switches in the garage to control the outdoor outlets. It is a lot easier to do this from a garage than it would be to run a wire into the house. If you have a basement, that might be a good place for the switch since you don't need to operate it manually. You just need it to be accessible for service and programming. A new outdoor outlet fed from a basement switch should be pretty easy to do.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I did this (using X-10 and not Insteon) so I'm not sure how the sized of the units vary. If you are interested though there are some pics in THIS How-To.

Also, I did an in-line module for controlling outdoor floodlights as shown below (in-line module is housed in that octagon box). Again, this was for X-10.

Sorry there were not any specific Insteon examples .

 

[BLH]

Smarthome is now accepting orders for the new InLineLinc. It is made to go into a fixture or electrical box.
http://www.smarthome.com/2475d.html Dimmer
http://www.smarthome.com/2475s.html relay

 

[pete]

not sure how your GFI is setup, but as long as one GFI outlet is on the same circuit and closer to the panel box, all those downstream are protected . . .

. . . this was how I was able to use standard X-10 recepticles outside . . .

Pete C

 

[mtwalsh367]

Thanks for the input. After seeing that Insteon is taking orders for their inline linc relay I think that that will be the best way to go. I should have room in my electrical boxes to wire these in prior to the outlet and then can control my outdoor lights and fountain from my insteon keypad as well as my M1 system.

The fun never ends (-:

 

[un-wired]

You could also use a non-dimming X10 or UPB switch and wire the outdoor outlet to it. This way you have automated control of the electric going to that outlet.

 

[RAM]

Here are some of the approaches I am considering.
- Use a appliance linc plug in type controller, assuming one will fit under the weatherproof cover. I don't know how well one of these will hold up to cold and humidity
- Install new outside outlets and wire them to be controlled by switches located inside the house. Obviously this is more work than the past two options.

I use these two versions myself. I have an outside outlet controlled by an X10 switch in the house. Never had a problem with this one obviously.
I also have a plain X10 appliance module which I placed in a ziplock bag and pushed the plug prongs through the plastic to plug the module in. That is in a pretty sheltered area under the edge of my deck (just like you, controlling low voltage deck lights). After the first one failed after just a year or so from internal corrosion, I left the bottom of the ziplock bag open on my next try. Kinda like an umbrella to keep the rain off, but not bottle up any moisture inside the bag. That has worked fine for over 2 years now. This is in Minnesota where we see 90+ in the summer and sub-zero temps in the winter.

 

[BLH]

Black and Decker [X10 OEM] made a weather resistant module. Looked like a 3' extension cord with a black box in the center. Programmed like an X10 Socket Rocket by sending the address to it three times in 30 seconds at power on. Was called a Lamp Module and responded to All Lights on etc, but sounded like the typical X10 relay clunk. Also had ratings typical of an X10 Appliance Module.

 

[electron]

I did used the appliance module in a ziplock bag method as well, but eventually the ziplock bag started looking ugly, so I simply removed it. This appliance module is exposed to all the elements (including being covered with several feet of snow in the winter, exposed to the sun all day in the summer), and it is still working (running 3+ years now).

 

[un-wired]

The Freewire Outdoor Lamp Receiver is rated for 500 watts of incandescant and 300 watts of halogen or fluorescent. They work really well for Christmas light type situations because you can plug the module in and train it indoors (send the X10 code three times while the unit is in training mode) and then unplug it and bring it to wherever you need to plug it in outside.

$11.95 (remember to use the special Cocoon forum discount code "cocoon" or for the Father's Day season 10% off with discount code "S071806A")
http://www.smarthomeusa.com/ShopByManufact...er/Item/FWLROD/

 

[huggy59]

When I lived in south Florida, I also used an appliance module plugged into an outside outlet, but that outlet was inside a plastic timer box for my sprinklers and on a GFCI. It would last about 6 mos. to a year before I'd have to replace it due to the relay contacts going bad, which I assume was due to corrosion and weathering. I had to replace the cheap sprinkler transformer more often because it would die much sooner - about every 3-4 months.

 

[elcano]

Dielectric grease. Use it as much as possible to protect your outfoor devices. The dielectric grease does not conduct electricity, fills in the air gaps and prevent water and moisture from accumulation. Whenever there is metal to metal contact, it displaces the grease and conducts without problems. I use a large syringe (previously used to administer oral medicine to my child) to inject the grease into receptacles and data drops.

 

[upstatemike]

Dielectric grease. Use it as much as possible to protect your outfoor devices. The dielectric grease does not conduct electricity, fills in the air gaps and prevent water and moisture from accumulation. Whenever there is metal to metal contact, it displaces the grease and conducts without problems. I use a large syringe (previously used to administer oral medicine to my child) to inject the grease into receptacles and data drops.

Probably OK for a relay module but I would think a dimmer module would have trouble staying cool if it was packed with grease.