controlling low voltage lights for my garden

v1rtu0s1ty

Senior Member
Hi folks,

I need help again. :o

I bought last year few low voltage lights for my garden. The box says "Malibu Low Voltage Lansdcaping CL4". Anyways, I don't have the power/timer for the lights since I just got it on sale from Intermatic warehouse.

On the box it says, "Use ONLY with low voltage outdoor landscape lighting products with power packs that have a max output rating of 12 volts, 300 watts per circuit."

Also outside the box, it says, "Features: Energy efficient 7w bulb".

Can I use my ELK M1 to power these lights? Can I also use my M1RB? If so can someone please guide me how I will do it.

However, if it's not possible, what should I buy for my ELK to make it work?

Thanks.

Neil
 
I hope you mean "Can I use my ELK M1 to switch these lights?".

And it seems as though the M1RB would be fine for controlling a 300W circuit. You can switch the 120V going to the outlet by routing it through one of the relays but it seems like you would be better off using a switched outlet or inline module from UPB, Z-Wave, or Insteon... or even X-10. This will give you a good opportunity to expand into lighting control.
 
I hope you mean "Can I use my ELK M1 to switch these lights?".

And it seems as though the M1RB would be fine for controlling a 300W circuit. You can switch the 120V going to the outlet by routing it through one of the relays but it seems like you would be better off using a switched outlet or inline module from UPB, Z-Wave, or Insteon... or even X-10. This will give you a good opportunity to expand into lighting control.

There is a good thread on this out there, search for Malibu. You still need a transformer to power the lights. A single elk relay may not be enough to switch the entire load, you may have to split the lights into multiple runs on different relays depending on how many you have. The other option as pointed out is to switch the high voltage side using a appliance module of some sort as pointed out above.

I am actually considering switching my outdoor LV lights also using the Elk, but it will involve digging, therefore procrastination... :o
 
I've a little recovery now from 3 wisdom tooth operation. I was put to sleep(g. anesthesia) due to 1 impacted wisdom tooth. I've been vomitting all day yesterday after the operation. :)

Anyways, thanks guys. I'll look into your projects again. :o
 
hi BSR,

I read your howto. However, what do I need on the M1 side to control the x10 outlet? And also, like what wuench said, what type of transformer do I need to buy to power the LV lights?

Thanks!
 
Something like THIS will power the lighting. Make sure to use 12 gauge direct burial wiring.

You then need a PSC05 and plug that into your Elk to control the X-10 outlet. Of course, your electrical system needs to be "X-10 compatible" which means maybe a phase coupler, low noise (noise blocks on the signal sucks), etc... You could also just plug in an appliance module, though sometimes it will not fit underneath the watertight cover.

If you don't want to go the X-10 route you could possible use a heavy duty relay on the output of the 12 volt from that transformer and have that controlled via the Elk.

FYI, most low voltage lighting transformers come with a timer so you can control when they turn on and off independent of any other system. :o
 
If you don't want to go the X-10 route you could possible use a heavy duty relay on the output of the 12 volt from that transformer and have that controlled via the Elk.

I think this would be similar to the pencil drawing you gave to me for the poor man's sprinkler. Can you please draw me another one? What would that heavy duty relay be?

Thanks.
 
I hope you mean "Can I use my ELK M1 to switch these lights?".

And it seems as though the M1RB would be fine for controlling a 300W circuit. You can switch the 120V going to the outlet by routing it through one of the relays but it seems like you would be better off using a switched outlet or inline module from UPB, Z-Wave, or Insteon... or even X-10. This will give you a good opportunity to expand into lighting control.

So will this drawing work?

lowvoltagediagram.gif


Also, BSR, I just noticed that you mentioned PSC05. How and where does it connect to the M1?

EDIT:

I still don't get it using X-10. When I bought this, http://www.x10.com/automation/sr227_s.html , how does my M1 control it?
 
No, that doesn't switch the circuits, and it puts a direct short across the transformer secondary. It will let the smoke out of the relay.
 
I tried my best to understand your drawing :)

Is this correct now? And am I correct that I will be able to use my M1RB?

lowvoltagediagram2.gif
 
I simply bought a non-timed transformer with a photocell that detects dusk/dawn. The photocell connects with two wires and is basically a NC switch (resistor really) that goes open when it gets dark. So I replaced the photocell with a connection to my Omni relay. It even had nice screw terminals for photocell replacement so no soldering.

Works great, still have manual control with switch on the transformer and it handles the high power switching instead of my relay. Only bad thing is it is not instant control as the transformer has what looks to be 60 second delay to prevent false light/dark tripping.

Justin
 
Yes, that drawing is correct, but I need to know the total current draw (how many lights you will have) on that circuit AND the max current that the Elk RB Relay's can handle with their contacts.

Another thing that affects outdoor lighting is the amount of cable and the gauge you use. There are some instructions and recommendations on Malibu's low voltage website.

http://webapps.easy2.com/cm2/flash/generic...age_id=35755041

http://www.malibulights.com/inc_division_l...did=1&pid=0

http://www.malibulights.com/kbase/users/kb.php?category_id=4
 
What I have here now are two 100ft 16 gauge low voltage bury wires made by Yard Scape. I also have 25 pieces of Malibu CL4 low voltage lights which totals to 175watts(7watts each low voltage ligts) when all lights are used. I've read in Malibu that I can only have two max wire runs per transformer and a max of 300watts combined. But looks like I am good since it's just 175watts.

Also, I was hoping if there was a 12vac transformer that doesn't have a timer. Maybe, if there was no timer, it can be a little cheaper than the Malibu.

Thank you so much! :)
 
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