controlling low voltage lights for my garden

[Steve]

I simply have a UPB relay that turns the transformer on/off. It is all controlled by the Elk and works great. Switching the HV side is the best way imho.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

1.) My biggest motivation for wanting to do this is the Sunrise/Sunset thing. My lights are all on timers now and they need constant adjustment throughout the year. Of course, I don't adjust them very often the result is they are almost always coming on during the day or going off too early or late. The elk and /or CQC know when sunset is, so more more adjustments.

2.) I eventually want to put motion detectors outside so they come on if someone approaches the house.

I like your number 2 idea very much! It's making me grin and my spirit inside me is saying heeheehee like gollum.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Ok folks, I need some guidance again. I want to add a separate outdoor outlet just like what BSR did. My existing outdoor outlet is just a single GFCI. That means, I can't change it. What I want to do is add a downstream to that existing GFCI outlet. I remember seeing my electrician drill a 1/2" hole to my wall in my old house. But that's all I remember.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Ok folks, I need some guidance again. I want to add a separate outdoor outlet just like what BSR did. My existing outdoor outlet is just a single GFCI. That means, I can't change it. What I want to do is add a downstream to that existing GFCI outlet. I remember seeing my electrician drill a 1/2" hole to my wall in my old house. But that's all I remember.

I need a pic, not getting exactly what you mean.

You can add a regular outlet "downstream" of a GFCI one and that outlet will be GFCI protected as well.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Hi BSR,

I found a guide on how to add an outdoor receptacle. http://www.cornerhardware.com/howto/ht054.html

However, I am not sure if the installation mentioned is secure. Looking at the pics, the white wire isn't inside a conduit pipe.

And is SR227 the outlet I need? And can I have 2 X10 outlets as downstream from the GFCI outlet?

Thanks.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Yes, you can use that X-10 outlet, but remember to do so downstream from a GFCI.

In the case of the outlet How-To you would need to replace the outlet inside the house with a GFCI, or add multiple outlets outside with a GFCI being the first one in the stream.

You can connect multiple X-10 outlets in one stream.

Make sure though that you can get an X-10 signal to an outlet first before going through all of this (do some testing). Also, you can always just use an appliance module (of any type) instead of mounting an outlet. You just have to be sure it all fits under some kind of approved rain tight cover.

Conduit is only needed where the wires would be "exposed" outside of an exterior wall or when run in the ground. This is why they don't use conduit in that installation example you linked to.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Awesome BSR!!! I was looking at AM486 manual ftp://ftp.x10.com/pub/manuals/am486-466-is.pdf
however, it does not contain the dimension. Does anyone have this module? Can someone please tell me the LxWxD?

Thanks!

EDIT:

Disregard, I found it
Dimensions: 2.25" W x 2.91" H x 1.36" D

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Looks like the AM486 appliance module will fit inside my existing outlet. But I am not sure once the transformer plug is connected to it.

I did some measurements using the height(2.91") and found out that I only have 1" left for the plug. I don't think I have enough room to accomodate the plug.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Here is an update BSR. I found the best existing GFCI outlet and it is in the basement. The distance I need from front porch is just 7'. I do have enough 12gauge solid wires. I also have the metal spiral flexible pipe as well

So my question now is when connecting the outdoor X10 outlet to this GFCI outlet. Does the wire need to be on a specific pin on the LOAD? I mean, can I swap the wires going to the X10 label A and B on the image below?

 

[Photon]

They are not interchangeable. Look at the face of the outlet and notice how one of the openings in the socket is narrower than the other. The narrow slot is for the "hot" lead, usually, but not always black. It usually connects to a brass-colored screw on the back or side of the outlet. The wider of the pair is the "neutral", and it is usually a white wire that attaches to a silver-colored screw. The bare wire goes to the green screw and is called "ground". That is the one that prevents you from getting fried if a white wire comes loose. The bare wire may be replaced by the armored conduit depending on where you live, and if the other end of the conduit is properly grounded.

I am no expert, and I mean no disrespect, but there are lots of books out there at libraries and home centers that explain the basics of residential wiring. If you make a mistake and smoke some low-voltage item like your Elk, you'll be really upset. If you make a mistake on the high voltage stuff, you won't care nearly as much as your survivors. This is serious stuff. It can kill someone. Maybe you should take a break and check out the library before you get too far along on the outlets. Especially the outdoor outlets where it gets wet.

Best wishes. . . . John

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Thanks for the advice and I will follow it.