Cordless phone wall wart removal

[Neurorad]

I have a cordless phone, hanging on a wall. Uses a 'wall-wart' transformer, from 110V. Brick says 9V (don't recall amps, will check).

Can I run the power supply through the wall, from the closet? Do I use a power distribution module for this? Seems like all are 12V (at least from Leviton).

Options:

1. Move the 110V outlet next to the phone. Wall wart still visible. Currently at floor level, a couple feet away.
2. Put the transformer behind the drywall (open unfinished space behind, no big deal). No outlet currently nearby in the mechanical room - entails draping an extension cord across the mechanical room.
3. Home-run the 9V power supply, and possibly add a power distribution module to an enclosure. What size wire for this? How is the wire passed through the wall? I don't recall ever seeing a keystone for this. Would a mini-coax double for power?

Thanks.

Edit - after more searching, it seems a recessed bulk cable single gang "nose" wall plate could easily pass the power supply and data cables, possibly covered by the telephone unit.

Edit #2 - I would only need a distribution module if I want to get rid of many 9VDC wall warts.

Thanks for helping this noob.

 

[tmbrown97]

you could just cut the end off and splice it through some longer cable... there likely won't be enough loss to matter if you use adequate gauged cable. Transformer in the wall or extension cords through the wall would certainly be against code - but the LV wouldn't.

And your assesement of the power distribution is correct - you could use a module like that to reduce supplies - but if your goal is just this one, I'd just splice in more wire in the middle.

 

[Neurorad]

you could just cut the end off and splice it through some longer cable... there likely won't be enough loss to matter if you use adequate gauged cable. Transformer in the wall or extension cords through the wall would certainly be against code - but the LV wouldn't.

And your assesement of the power distribution is correct - you could use a module like that to reduce supplies - but if your goal is just this one, I'd just splice in more wire in the middle.

Thanks! Do you have a suggestion on gauge for the run? ~20 feet LV.

 

[amirm]

Thanks! Do you have a suggestion on gauge for the run? ~20 feet LV.

Can you see how many amps the transformer puts out? That would let us compute the voltage drop and give a more precise answer. Otherwise, 20 guage wire will have 0.2 volt drop assuming 1 amp current usage and will likely work. Of course, be sure to test it before running it behind the wall .

 

[Scott12v]

I use this and it is perfect:
Leiton Out of Sight Phone Mount

Obviously you'd need to run power to this.

 

[Neurorad]

I use this and it is perfect:
Leiton Out of Sight Phone Mount

Obviously you'd need to run power to this.

I wasted hours yesterday searching for this.

I even searched Smarthome.com for phone wall plates!

If I use this product, I'll have to move the 110V outlet, and the hole nees to be patched and painted. I have a rather large hole 2 feet away already, though, from an intercom station that I pulled out, so a little more drywall work and paint shouldn't be a big deal.

If I home run the power supply, I won't.

Difficult decision, but I think the easiest choice would be the home run.

However, that combo wall plate would be ideal for the kitchen. Thanks so much for the tip!

 

[Neurorad]

Thanks! Do you have a suggestion on gauge for the run? ~20 feet LV.

Can you see how many amps the transformer puts out? That would let us compute the voltage drop and give a more precise answer. Otherwise, 20 guage wire will have 0.2 volt drop assuming 1 amp current usage and will likely work. Of course, be sure to test it before running it behind the wall .

The 9V transformer is .5 amps.

Should I use stranded or solid 20 guage? Would there be a disadvantage to using 18 guage? I have many longer runs to plan for, and I'd like to buy one spool of cable.

What type of splice should I use?

I haven't cut the transformer wires yet, so I don't know the guage, but it feels flexible (most probably stranded), and I'd estimate 20-22 guage. I have an inexpensive soldering iron (don't know the wattage offhand). I could invest in some sort of crimping tool.

 

[Monk]

Thanks! Do you have a suggestion on gauge for the run? ~20 feet LV.

Can you see how many amps the transformer puts out? That would let us compute the voltage drop and give a more precise answer. Otherwise, 20 guage wire will have 0.2 volt drop assuming 1 amp current usage and will likely work. Of course, be sure to test it before running it behind the wall .

The 9V transformer is .5 amps.

Should I use stranded or solid 20 guage? Would there be a disadvantage to using 18 guage? I have many longer runs to plan for, and I'd like to buy one spool of cable.

What type of splice should I use?

I haven't cut the transformer wires yet, so I don't know the guage, but it feels flexible (most probably stranded), and I'd estimate 20-22 guage. I have an inexpensive soldering iron (don't know the wattage offhand). I could invest in some sort of crimping tool.

Great idea of a product.... If I am reading it right, it provides the voltage to the phone, to include extra tips, etc. Seems as you might only need to run the 110 to the box and it should supply the rest.. possibly even using your existing tip and wire?
OK - just looked again - I read it as you having to supply 110v to the product - then it has a built in xformer that supplies the phone - apologies if I am backwards on this.

 

[amirm]

The 9V transformer is .5 amps.

Should I use stranded or solid 20 guage? Would there be a disadvantage to using 18 guage? I have many longer runs to plan for, and I'd like to buy one spool of cable.

I would go stranded since that is probably what is in your current transformer. Solid wire and stranded are harder to mate but certainly workable.. And no, there is no harm at all in using 18.

What type of splice should I use?

Since it is low voltage, as long as you can access the splice should it go bad, you can do anything. I am lazy so I would probably just twist the wires together and slap some high quality electrical tape on it . Tape each leg seperately and then tape the two together. If you like, you can also use small electrical (high voltage) wire nuts. Or crimper per below.

I haven't cut the transformer wires yet, so I don't know the guage, but it feels flexible (most probably stranded), and I'd estimate 20-22 guage. I have an inexpensive soldering iron (don't know the wattage offhand). I could invest in some sort of crimping tool.

Your estimate sounds right to me.

Unless you have another reason to buy any of the above they really are not needed. Also, a soldered connection can break off if you play with it too much.

And yes, a crimp would be the most solid connection. Be sure to use the right setting on the crimper though. Pull the wire strongly and if it comes out of the connection, then do it again. Make sure none of the wire is exposed much past the end of the crimp so that it doesn't short out.

 

[Neurorad]

Thanks! Do you have a suggestion on gauge for the run? ~20 feet LV.

Can you see how many amps the transformer puts out? That would let us compute the voltage drop and give a more precise answer. Otherwise, 20 guage wire will have 0.2 volt drop assuming 1 amp current usage and will likely work. Of course, be sure to test it before running it behind the wall .

The 9V transformer is .5 amps.

Should I use stranded or solid 20 guage? Would there be a disadvantage to using 18 guage? I have many longer runs to plan for, and I'd like to buy one spool of cable.

What type of splice should I use?

I haven't cut the transformer wires yet, so I don't know the guage, but it feels flexible (most probably stranded), and I'd estimate 20-22 guage. I have an inexpensive soldering iron (don't know the wattage offhand). I could invest in some sort of crimping tool.

Great idea of a product.... If I am reading it right, it provides the voltage to the phone, to include extra tips, etc. Seems as you might only need to run the 110 to the box and it should supply the rest.. possibly even using your existing tip and wire?
OK - just looked again - I read it as you having to supply 110v to the product - then it has a built in xformer that supplies the phone - apologies if I am backwards on this.

I think it's just a recessed outlet, with allowance for the phone conductors to pass though the top of the plate. Native phone transformer/wart plugs into the recessed outlet.

Edit - no, you're right. Transformer included, variable 7-12V.

Instruction sheet download link from Leviton:

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmD...p;section=11007

 

[Neurorad]

And thanks a bunch, Amir!

I think I'll go with the 18-2, and try my hand at butt splices.