Deadbolts Revisited


Active Member
In my current house I have a deadbolt lock with a keypad on the outside. It's like the ones shown here: It's nice because it toggles the state of the deadbolt and then removes current. It fails in whatever position it's in and can be opened/closed manually with a key or the lever inside.

In my new house, I want a similar thing, except I want it linked to my Elk-M1 (whenever I get that). I would like to be able to use a keypad or card reader connected to the Elk to unlock the door. This would allow, the kids to come home from school, enter their codes and get access as well as disarming the alarm at the same time.

Has anyone seen anything like this? I suppose there may be a way to hack one of these from the same company.

Any ideas?

Let us know if you find something, I wouldn't mind doing this myself. The model you have could probably be hacked, but I personally would rather not have a keypad visible if it is linked to the Elk.
Wow, my wife was giving me a hard time the other day and maybe I should get her back with this one.. She said she wanted the doors to unlock and the ELK system to Beep like her jeep does... :D

Maybe once elk releases their "new" keypad one could be mounted in an outside water tight enclosure and use the RF models of the lock and hack a remote to be connected to a elk output via a relay.

When the kids type in their code in the outside kaypad it momentarialy triggers the output which in turn triggers the relay hacked onto the buttons of a spare remote and unlocks the doors.
I've done an Elk install where I used an external wiegand keypad and an electric strike. This gives you the control you were looking for via the Elk. For example, you can program and remove entry codes remotely. This page has links to the keypad that was connected to the internal M1KP.

In this case, because it was a standard lockset with the electric strike, one could also use a key to enter and the strike could be configured to fail open or closed. I used a strike from RCI.

There are also electric deadbolts that could be used if you wanted more than a strike:
I took a look at the deadbolts from smarthome. They would almost do the trick. I need something that just toggles the deadbolt between open and closed, and still has a lever on the inside in case of power loss. I don't want the lock to require power to maintain the locked/unlocked state. The keylesspro locks do just that, but I would have to hack them. I took another look, and the locks are infrared not rf.

Still thinking about that hack though...

There are a few systems out there that arm and disarm with the deadbolt on your door. They are made by Napco and the latest one is about to hit the market in October with 64 zones. You can have up to 8 doors on it and the sensor for the deadbolts can be hardwired or wireless. There will even be the ability to do this while opening your garage door.

Its basically a no code panel (meaning you dont need to know any alarm code since your door key is the code). You can add a regular keypad if you want that uses a code. Its a neat system for those who dont want to use a code (code phobics?)

Dealers should have information on it shortly.

But............ its not an ELK (not even close).

I would put an outdoor prox reader hooked to the indoor keypad on the ELK M1. You can also program the outside siren to chirp to acknowledge the arm/disarm.
The Napco system sounds interesting. I'm checking out their website now.

What I want is just a deadbolt that I can toggle via a relay controlled by the Elk (outdoor keypad), a key (outdoors in case of power failure), or a lever (indoors for safety). Once toggled, the deadbolt should not need power to stay in its current state. I took a look at one of the keylesspro type locks in person and that's what it does. It's actually battery powered which is okay, and it looks like I might be able to trigger it via relay. If there's something out there that I don't have to hack, that would be even better.

This just in:
A hack similar to what I want to do. In my case, all I'll need is the control wires run back to the relay. If I can run them inside the door, that would be even better. I want a neater look than what's in the pictures shown at rfidtoys.

Even though I work for Napco I honestly have to say you want an ELK (I own one myself). I was just explaining the concept which is neat.

The concept is pretty much patented in a way that nobody is able to do exactly what Napco can by making it so you cannot false alarm coming in the door since the system is disarmed by the door lock. Its neat and its perfect for some people.

Again I would buy an ELK in your situation. Its an awesome system.
This looks closer.

Provides control by and monitoring from an external source, e.g. Elk. Key for power fail entry and knob for safety exit.

The one requirement it doesn't have is that it takes current all the time.
Hi stacyh3,

I've been looking for a similar device, although I also need a Prox reader built into the unit. Not easy to find.

However, I believe I might have found what you are looking for:

See bottom of this page:

Or look here:

Manufacturer's website:

Manufacturer's American website:

Note that the specs indicate connections for release by remote switch. Sounds like you would only need a relay to integrate this with your Elk.

Hope that helps.
Not sure what other options are (will become) available, but I'd be careful with anything that uses a 'standard' key for access!! There is a very simple method out there to defeat even hardend locks. I certainly wouldn't want a standard key to disarm the security system . . .

. . . basically you take a blank that fits the lock and cut each notch for max depth, and trim the shoulder a bit, insert the key, apply slight twisting pressure and then wack the key sharply . . . poof, the lock opens right up . . .

yes, this means that 99% of entry door locks and deadbolts are not worth a crap . . .

. . . google 'lock bumping' for more info . . .

Pete C
blafarm said:
Are you suggesting that this technique works with Medeco cylinders?
they claim it doesn't . . .

but it does work on typical entry and deadbolts use in residential construction (mostly schlage and kwikset here in the U.S.)

Pete C