Wow - so many strong feelings - I know I should just quietly walk away but for some reason I'm not...
Tangent alert...anyone else find certain LED tail lights truly bothersome? Some tail lights strobe - specifically Cadillac, Nissan Leaf. I cannot drive behind them.
Either Toyota or Honda had one - although I'm thinking it was a highlander - so bad I refused to drive behind them because they truly hurt my eyes... haven't seen any issues in the last couple years though.
Why would you settle for Cree? Regardless, the easiest thing to do is get one of each, test it, and return those which aren't good enough.
"Settle"? Cree is a pretty well made bulb that's actually affordable - and some of their bulbs have the best CRI available - and for their price points there's just no comparison. They are priced similar to cheap no-name chinese junk and yet the bulbs are pretty consistent and quite nice. I've tested a lot of brands and Cree has been the best as far as dimming curve, color reproduction, and overall color/quality. What makes you feel that using Cree is "Settling"?
hat is weird. I tested every bulb local stores had - clamshell packaging be damned - as well as ordered a few online - there are online stores which welcome test & returns - and settled on a bulbs I like most. I mean, why would you spend good money on a few dozen bulbs and then find out it does not work bad? It's better to test them out first.
Never had an issue returning to Costco, Lowes, or Home Depot - like I said above, I've tested a LOT of bulbs. I live in a city with about the most expensive electricity in the country so this is important to me.
UPStart can tell you if a UPB device is "repeater enabled" because UPStart can't "see" it otherwise.
Doesn't seem 100% accurate... there are plenty of cases where Upstart sees switches on both phases without any phase couplers or repeaters. Not all installs require anything like that - my last house didn't despite pool pumps and all electric homes with all electric appliances.
So if you want to be safe, just don't use Simply Automated things, and you won't have any problems. Some of their stuff MIGHT work also, but it will take trial-and-error.
"MIGHT" work? SA is quite common among CT and works just fine for a lot of installs. They saw the problems and addressed them on their own without going back and paying more licensing feed for "Gen 2" and "Gen 3" while solving many of those issues. And really I can promise there isn't another UPB company out there that even compares when it comes to their support - it's probably the best I've seen. I think their faceplates look cheap and leave plenty of room for improvement - especially with that whole "print on paper and put in the insert" - that's just hokey right there... but as far as actual function goes, their products are extremely reliable, functional, and flexible - and yet for a fraction of the cost of something like PCS.
If a switch doesn't "support" a repeater, you don't have to replace it, just realize to program it with UPStart, it will need to be on the same phase as the ZIM, otherwise it should work O.K. but you won't receive status back if your PIM and switch are on opposite phases. But you CAN control it on the opposite phase.
Same as above - that's only true in some cases... in a lot of cases phase couplers and repeaters are completely not needed. It must be quite the story of what made you have such strong feelings on the topic.
At this point in time they can do pastel colours where white and RGB can be mixed White colour temperatures can be simulated. MiLight cannot mix W and RGB due to controller or software?? Strip can do it with individual conductors.
Hue bulbs do not have the white power brightness, MiLight bulbs are 9W and can light up a room like a 120 W incandescent.
Hue bulbs cannot produce all the colours. Best green is like a cheap old fluorescent light colour and blue cannot be produced unless you call Indigo = blue. Reds and oranges are rich. MiLight bulbs and strips produce every colour with amazing deep colour richness. The RGB does not have the power the white LED does.
Both use power cycling as a work-around to use with a regular hardware switch. This results in all light being on after power failure recovery. Intelligent HA needs to turn them off in the middle of the night after a power blink.
I have found no issues with the colors - although the app can make it hard to access certain corners. I haven't found much it can't do, and with 3rd party apps I've seen some pretty cool functionality... there are some apps that will let you know when your favorite team scores; or do a fireworks show with multiple bulbs simultaneously creating a nice effect; etc. I don't think their app gives the bulbs the justice they deserve.
The color temperature is one of my favorite things - from bright white for visibility to basically the effect of a candle-light dinner, flickering and all. You absolutely can dim the bulbs while on white settings, although I'd like to go much dimmer - it seems like you get to about 20% and that's it, at least with their app.
I think the price of the Hue bulbs is obscene and yet one day when I felt like wasting money, I bought the starter pack and put one bulb in each kid's room in their table/night lamps. I have standard scenes that drop light levels but from time to time they'll get on kicks where they want green or white and bright or dim... They've been fun. Also over-priced, there's a disney version of the bulb which interacts with their ipads when reading bedtime stories that changes the color of the room with a wallwasher as you go page by page - as wasteful and stupid as it is, I'll probably get one before long just because it'll excite them and it's fun.