Drilling large holes for central vac

Thanks for the info guys, guess it's time to find a rental. There are no other bits out there which would do the job with my current drill, correct? I have a hole saw, but it won't be able to handle that kind of thickness, plus they suck in general.
 
Thanks for the info guys, guess it's time to find a rental. There are no other bits out there which would do the job with my current drill, correct? I have a hole saw, but it won't be able to handle that kind of thickness, plus they suck in general.

You could use a standard Forstner bit, they are really made for making ultra clean holes, but are similar to the one you have. They don't self feed, so you can get away with less power.

Brian
 
sic, you are SO right there, LOL.

think we have all twisted an arm or two as well. not to mention smashin the knuckles on an adjacent stud.
 
Here's a vote for buying rather than renting. I bought a right angle, geared low rpm Milwaukie drill several years ago.. The great thing about having it around is that any wiring job you need to do is sooo much easier. Really lowers the threshold for taking on a project. And you're less tempted to cut corners on routing wire. With one of those bits that you've got boring through a ceiling plate is no work at all....
 
A good right angle drill is something I wouldn't mind buying, but I can't find one that is affordable (read: around $60), and be powerful enough.
 
Thanks for the info guys, guess it's time to find a rental. There are no other bits out there which would do the job with my current drill, correct? I have a hole saw, but it won't be able to handle that kind of thickness, plus they suck in general.


I did 3 holes with a regular hole saw, was a real pain, drill in an inch then break out the wood from either the hole or the hole saw and then continue. All of my holes had to go through 6 inches of wood. I it took a lot of patience, and of course I had to have it done when everything was closed.

StevenE
 
If you are only driling 3 holes, it may take a bit longer, but wouldn't this work? (purchasing the diameter you need of course) In the case with the High RPM drill you purchased, that should let you speed right through the wood. I have never drilled into walls like this personally, Yet :blink: but have used bits like this to cur through 2 x 4's as well as plywood in the past without any problem.
 
Damn, that drill has a bidder already, I will watch it, thanks for the tip! I already have a hole saw that has the right diameter, I just can't imagine using it. I don't think I have as much patience as StevenE :blink: I am thinking about using my auger bits (which chew through wood really fast) to drill a circle, and punch it out if I can't find a good deal on a good drill soon.
 
Patience had nothing to do with it, determination was the incentive.

I wanted to get it done, I had limited time and everything was closed.

:unsure:
StevenE
 
my 2 cents:
I've used a 2-1/8" Forstner bit to drill holes for 2" vac pipe. Thickest material was 3" (sandwiched 2x4's forming a wall header) and the going was tough. I found that simply pressing hard and keeping the bit dead-straight isn't nearly as effective as wiggling the bit around a little. It appears to help the bit's teeth get a better bite.

I used a drill with more than enough torque to get the job done. From personal and painful experience, don't wear grippy, neoprene-faced gloves; wear well-fitted, heavy leather gloves. If the damn drill wants to tear out of your hands, the leather gloves will let it happen. Grippy rubber gloves want to hang on and take your hands for a wild ride. A fractured thumb taught me this ...
 
I ended up using a large auger bit to drill a circular shape. Worked really well, so I brought the $40 drillbit back and saved lots of money.
 
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