Electrical Code Question
- Thread starter GadgetBoy
- Start date
Normally, pulling 110v electric through an open (exposed) area needs to be in conduit. You should check your electrical codes for your area for details on the type of conduit. Some will allow plastic (PVC) and some require metal.
I'm not familiar with the term "BX", but I'll assume you mean what we call ROMEX here in Ohio. 2 conductors with a ground in a sheathed cable. Be careful here... Most states don't like romex INSIDE conduit because of potential heat issues.
Anywhere that the wire is out of harms way (inside a wall cavity or between joists), it can be exposed. All splices (or connections) need to be in a box with some sort of access (cover plate screwed on, etc.).
Check your local codes as they vary state to state.
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, however, I've done quite a bit of electical work over the years (even worked for an electrician for a bit) :blink:
dtperk
(yea! my first post!)
I'm not familiar with the term "BX", but I'll assume you mean what we call ROMEX here in Ohio. 2 conductors with a ground in a sheathed cable. Be careful here... Most states don't like romex INSIDE conduit because of potential heat issues.
Anywhere that the wire is out of harms way (inside a wall cavity or between joists), it can be exposed. All splices (or connections) need to be in a box with some sort of access (cover plate screwed on, etc.).
Check your local codes as they vary state to state.
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, however, I've done quite a bit of electical work over the years (even worked for an electrician for a bit) :blink:
dtperk
(yea! my first post!)
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Hi dtperk, welcome to CocoonTech, excellent first post!
You are correct in the fact that you can not pull "romex" through conduit (if that's what BX really is). I believe it has to deal with heat dissipation, but not 100 percent sure.
We have a lot of professional installers who I am sure will chime in with further details.
Regards,
BSR
You are correct in the fact that you can not pull "romex" through conduit (if that's what BX really is). I believe it has to deal with heat dissipation, but not 100 percent sure.
We have a lot of professional installers who I am sure will chime in with further details.
Regards,
BSR
TonyNo
Active Member
BX is flexible metal conduit. As I understand it, it was invented for NY to keep the rats from eating through the lines!
Pic courtesy of Google...
http://www.seatekco.com/images/rs-101a-1c.jpg
Tony
Pic courtesy of Google...
http://www.seatekco.com/images/rs-101a-1c.jpg
Tony
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Ya just gotta love people that live in NY! I stand corrected on my earlier post then!
Normally, you would be okay with the 3" pipe, as long as it's the grey PVC made specifically for electrical work.
Unfortunately, the words "NY" and "normal electrical codes" do not belong in the same sentence. NYC and Chicago both deviate (or exceed depending on your point of view) from the NEC. In the case of NY, I don't know if it's the entire state, or just the city. In either case, unless someone with a NY license pops up on the board, I think you need to talk to your local inspector.
Unfortunately, the words "NY" and "normal electrical codes" do not belong in the same sentence. NYC and Chicago both deviate (or exceed depending on your point of view) from the NEC. In the case of NY, I don't know if it's the entire state, or just the city. In either case, unless someone with a NY license pops up on the board, I think you need to talk to your local inspector.
I may just use the PVC for speaker wire, cameras and alarm connections (for the future).
I have been using a closet to run many of my speaker wire and camera connections up into my attic. I am now thinking of moving my setup under my basement stairs (out of the way) and then running the PVC from floor to ceiling in a back corner of the closet to run the new lines. Since I just installed a new 200 amp service in the house, it will be easier to run dedicated lines under my basement stairs as opposed to running them up to my main floor to get me better x10 distribution throughout the house.
I have been using a closet to run many of my speaker wire and camera connections up into my attic. I am now thinking of moving my setup under my basement stairs (out of the way) and then running the PVC from floor to ceiling in a back corner of the closet to run the new lines. Since I just installed a new 200 amp service in the house, it will be easier to run dedicated lines under my basement stairs as opposed to running them up to my main floor to get me better x10 distribution throughout the house.
You are correct David. I don't know of any state that allows low voltage with line voltage in the same conduit; and YES, you will get interference from the line voltage "spilling" into the low voltage stuff especially if they run in parallel to each other.
That's what I would do. Run your electrical separate and your low voltage stuff in the conduit. Run a "pull string" also and leave it in the conduit in case you have stuff in the future you want to pull through!
If BX is metal clad, then you should be fine running it exposed. You will have to secure it about every 12" to the wall. Again, I don't know the specific NY codes, but I would tend to believe that would be O.K.
Side Notes:
As for the new panel, Excellent! I've done a couple of panels in my day and you'll be happy with the new service. Go get youself an AMP meter (the kind with the jaws that clip around a wire; $50 at home depot) and turn on the stuff that would normally be on while your family is occuping the house. Clip the amp meter around one phase of the main line (before your main breaker; coming from the pole) and read the reading. Go over to the other phase line and check that reading. The key is to keep both phases of the line into the house balanced. If you are drawing more amps over one phase than the other, you would want to start measuring the individual circuits to see where you could move something over to the other phase to equal (as closely as you can) the other phase.
Most ppl don't know it, but you're meter will spin and clock up your bill if one phase is drawing more than the other.... Ummm... How do I put it simpler...
If you're one phase is drawing 70 amps, and the other 30 over 1 hour, then your meter is clocking 70 ampers per hour.
If you move some of the load from the 70 amp leg over to the 30; let's say 20 amps worth, then you would have 50 amps on the first phase and 50 on the second and only clock 50 ampers per hour. Make sense??? (Saves money and electrons! <-(not YOU oh great one... you're already on top of the world with this great board!) :blink:
Good luck with your project.
Dtperk (Thanks for the welcome BSR!) :blink:
Little off track, but found this interesting FAQ on home electric circuits / problems:
http://www.tangible-technology.com/power/POWER_1.html
http://www.tangible-technology.com/power/POWER_1.html
electron said:
Thanks for the welcome master! .... I ran a BBS back in the day and know what a challenge it can be keeping everything running smoothly. Looks like you have a handle on things! (but these days technology and software has come a long way... in my day, I had to draw ANSI screens with "TheDraw" hehe.
Great board with great info and great ppl conversing.
Hope I can add (and take away) some good info and help as I progress in my hobby. Maybe I'll post a bit over in the newbie forum with my specs in case anyone is interested in my background.
Brief history: Network WAN engineer by day for a medium sized bank in Cleveburg, Ohio, husband and woodworker; experience in electrical, low voltage, security (camera and wired systems) and an obsessive compulsion to spend more money than I can afford at home depot! :blink:
