Elk announce the ELK-WSV water shutoff valve
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Squintz
Senior Member
I saw the water valve on display at EHX and I was very impressed. This is not a cheap valve. This is a very heavy duty solidly crafted water valve. It is setup for the main line so you would not need multiples. $400 is probably right on the edge of what I would pay for it. If I was doing new construction it would be a must have. In my existing home I don't think I would go through the hassle of hiring a plumber. Thats just me tho.
These could be used for other applications as well. If you need to fill your swiming pool to a certain level and don't want to sit there and watch it all day then a sensor and this device would work pretty well especially if you had to do it several times each year.
These could be used for other applications as well. If you need to fill your swiming pool to a certain level and don't want to sit there and watch it all day then a sensor and this device would work pretty well especially if you had to do it several times each year.
Steve
Senior Member
While it is a good idea, I'm not sure too many average folks would spend 400 beans for a valve to automate filling their pool occasionally - the hose works just fine!
If I wanted a valve to hookup to my M1, I would keep it 'in the family' and get the Elk valve, even if it very a few dollars more. You can use any water sensor you want, wired or wireless. Caddx/ITI makes a nice wirless one good for under sinks, etc in a retrofit.
If I wanted a valve to hookup to my M1, I would keep it 'in the family' and get the Elk valve, even if it very a few dollars more. You can use any water sensor you want, wired or wireless. Caddx/ITI makes a nice wirless one good for under sinks, etc in a retrofit.
WayneW
Senior Member
I haven't seen under the white motor housing of the shell, but I would be surprised if they are they same. I suspect that lots of valve bodies (the visible part in th Elk picture) look alike and that the differences are in the motor and the control circuitry.CORT said:
For pool filling, I suspect most people would be happy with $15 irrigation valves.
For sensors, there are a number of wired and wireless sensors that can be used with the M1.
rocco
Active Member
My priority order:rfdesq said:
1) Behind the washing machine (those stinkin' hoses!).
2) Next to the water-heater (but away from the pressure-relief valve).
3) Under the kitchen sink.
4) Under the dishwasher.
I don't have any second floor bathrooms, but if I did, I would try to put some under the floor, above the ceiling of the floor below.
If you have a washing machine that drains into a utility sink you might want to put one there. I am doing that and tripping the M1 to tell an applaince module to shut the power off to the washer so the sink does not overflow if it gets clogged.
I agree with Spanky you are more likely to have a flood than a fire or break in and the savings from minimizing the flood damage may pay for the system a few times over in the life of the product.
I also agree that the water valve needs the torque. I tried the pencil test on mine before I installed it. Worked fine. There are probably a few good units out there and a few bad. You cant beat stainless steel though.
I do like the idea of a periodic trip. I think I will write a rule that every time the M1 is armed away and the day of the week is monday that it will close and open the valve.
I agree with Spanky you are more likely to have a flood than a fire or break in and the savings from minimizing the flood damage may pay for the system a few times over in the life of the product.
I also agree that the water valve needs the torque. I tried the pencil test on mine before I installed it. Worked fine. There are probably a few good units out there and a few bad. You cant beat stainless steel though.
I do like the idea of a periodic trip. I think I will write a rule that every time the M1 is armed away and the day of the week is monday that it will close and open the valve.
In regards to cost, I bought one of the $79 or so washing machine kits a few years ago that had a sensor and shut off the water if there was a leak. I tested it, it worked great. A year later, it was the source of my leak.
Ironic?
It looked like it was well made when I got it. That being said, the price of the watercop and this unit seems a bit more palatable after going through that. I'd be curious on the discount as well as that helps justify something like this (having not gone through water damage before).
Ironic?
It looked like it was well made when I got it. That being said, the price of the watercop and this unit seems a bit more palatable after going through that. I'd be curious on the discount as well as that helps justify something like this (having not gone through water damage before).
Photon
Active Member
"Spanky, is there a rating for the number of open/close cycles for this device?"
If it is rated for an unlimited number of cycles, one could just have it leave the valve closed any time Elk is armed away, unless there are some unattended water uses in the plan such as fill the cat's dish, water the lawn, or spray the trespasser. Then there would be little need to worry about having sufficient battery power to operate the valve if the power is out.
I wonder if the Elk should also turn off the water heater when it closes the valve. As water heats and expands, it has to go somewhere, and unless there is an expansion tank it will expand out through the main water supply pipe that this device closes.
If it is rated for an unlimited number of cycles, one could just have it leave the valve closed any time Elk is armed away, unless there are some unattended water uses in the plan such as fill the cat's dish, water the lawn, or spray the trespasser. Then there would be little need to worry about having sufficient battery power to operate the valve if the power is out.
I wonder if the Elk should also turn off the water heater when it closes the valve. As water heats and expands, it has to go somewhere, and unless there is an expansion tank it will expand out through the main water supply pipe that this device closes.
AutomatedOutlet
Senior Member
felixrosbergen
Senior Member
Spanky:
You mentioned earlier that the valve works on essentially a 5 second time. Does this mean there is no 'confirmation' of any kind on the position of the valve?
My concern is that for example when being run of the Elk battery the valve may turn a bit slower or even when run of the normal PSU but cycling often there would be a smaller error that would stack and increase so that the position is no longer predictable.
I'm sure this has been thought of during the engineering of the valve, but i just haven't seen it yet in the descriptions.
Those that have one of these, did you run it through a bunch of cycles to see if it consistently closes?
You mentioned earlier that the valve works on essentially a 5 second time. Does this mean there is no 'confirmation' of any kind on the position of the valve?
My concern is that for example when being run of the Elk battery the valve may turn a bit slower or even when run of the normal PSU but cycling often there would be a smaller error that would stack and increase so that the position is no longer predictable.
I'm sure this has been thought of during the engineering of the valve, but i just haven't seen it yet in the descriptions.
Those that have one of these, did you run it through a bunch of cycles to see if it consistently closes?
