Travis4710
Member
Is there an easy way to mount an Elk M1 in a 28" Leviton can? None of the holes seem to line up, so I'm assuming you must drill for everything. Anyone have any recomendations?
Elk M1 in a Leviton Can
- Thread starter Travis4710
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tmbrown97
Senior Member
If you're careful, you can pop the clamshell of the Elk open and remove the circuit board. Be careful - it's easy to break the plastic tabs; then remove the circuit board and just use self-tapping screws right through the back plastic. Then reassemble in place.
Think about your placement carefully - for best wire routing, battery placement, etc.
There is a UL Approved mounting bracket, but it's not great and it's more trouble than it's worth - after buying it, I still tapped my own screws.
Think about your placement carefully - for best wire routing, battery placement, etc.
There is a UL Approved mounting bracket, but it's not great and it's more trouble than it's worth - after buying it, I still tapped my own screws.
wuench
Senior Member
The main unit and a few of the others have irregular hole placement (mostly the smaller cards). I drilled for my main unit a la W2P's notes above. For the cards that didn't line up I used Leviton Security Strips, but there are probably cheaper brackets available from other vendors.
Travis4710
Member
So is there an advantage over using the Leviton can or should I just order the 28" Elk can?
tmbrown97
Senior Member
Matter of preference - the Elk cans obviously work with the Elk better, and preserve the UL Listing if you're interested in that. But - plenty of us use other cans.
I wouldn't rely on anything less than permanent screws - just having the thing fall loose - whether in a week or 5 years, would be irritating and stands the chance of breaking conductors, shorting something, etc.
Of course check your screw heads to make sure they're not exceptionally tall - but considering you'd be using the original screw holes (behind the circuit board) there's clearance as intended.
I wouldn't rely on anything less than permanent screws - just having the thing fall loose - whether in a week or 5 years, would be irritating and stands the chance of breaking conductors, shorting something, etc.
Of course check your screw heads to make sure they're not exceptionally tall - but considering you'd be using the original screw holes (behind the circuit board) there's clearance as intended.
Maybe I'm the lone holdout, but I've always used the Elk cans and fail to see the attraction to units that require extensive modification, drilling, etc. to use. Maybe if you dropped all the cabling in the same enclosure with structured, but again, I don't like mixing security and structured in the same enclosures either.
You can put a pretty big Elk system in a single 28" can, not to mention the grid is universal for 3rd party components. Even on some of our largest systems, I've only used 2 28" enclosures, with space left over (less batteries for a couple).
You can put a pretty big Elk system in a single 28" can, not to mention the grid is universal for 3rd party components. Even on some of our largest systems, I've only used 2 28" enclosures, with space left over (less batteries for a couple).
Just before I started my M1 install, HD had their Leviton cans on clearance. Coulda gotten the 42" version for 40 bux.
I still went with a 28" Elk can instead, didnt really feel like dealing with drilling new holes, and since I intended on using the vertical glides to hold circuit boards I would have had to drill those holes too.
Looking back I shoulda picked up a 42" just for batteries and external power supply.
I still went with a 28" Elk can instead, didnt really feel like dealing with drilling new holes, and since I intended on using the vertical glides to hold circuit boards I would have had to drill those holes too.
Looking back I shoulda picked up a 42" just for batteries and external power supply.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
I went with the Leviton can for 2 reasons... 1) because it was available at Home Depot when I bought the rest of my structured wiring components and 2) for cosmetic reasons - since it matched my structured wiring can and they are literally inches apart from one another.
The only thing that I've "modified" with regard to the can was for the M1 mounting... I drilled 4 holes into the back of the can.
I don't plan on this to be my final home. Unless something better is released before then, I will probably take the Elk with me... and I may choose to install it in an Elk can the next time. That said, the next owner of my home will likely have an empty Leviton can that is pre-wired for alarm (chances are they would end up having ADT come in anyway).
The only thing that I've "modified" with regard to the can was for the M1 mounting... I drilled 4 holes into the back of the can.
I don't plan on this to be my final home. Unless something better is released before then, I will probably take the Elk with me... and I may choose to install it in an Elk can the next time. That said, the next owner of my home will likely have an empty Leviton can that is pre-wired for alarm (chances are they would end up having ADT come in anyway).
KenN
Member
Work2Play said:
I didn't even have to remove the plastic backing - there are two keyholes on the backside of the Elk, and a tab at the bottom with two more holes. So with some careful measuring, I just had to drill 4 holes of the right size, and in the right locations. Put two screws in place and hang on the keyholes, then finish it off with the two at the bottom.
My Elk controller shipped with 4 screws that are self-tapping with shoulders, so I didn't have to worry about the heads protruding into electronics or tightening them down too much to hang on the keyholes.
I typically buy a SYS4S kit and then get a 28 to go with it. Use the smaller can for oddball system components, subpanel or battery can on the larger systems, couple of stubs of pipe or close nipples and you're done. Instant 42" Elk can if you really want to be in the same stud bay.gatchel said:
Again, maybe I'm alone here, but I'd prefer to have a pair of enclosures side by side and piped together over a huge tall one.
tmbrown97
Senior Member
The way I laid things out in this house, I only had one stud bay to work with - at the bottom was the existing 20" OnQ so I dropped the 50" Channel Vision can above it - and sprung for the Plexi door... yeah, I figured it'd be fun to see all the flashy lights and boards, plus the protrusion in the door allows for an optional fan to be installed and ventilation added, which I didn't see as an option any other way. These cabinets do actually get pretty warm. I'm sure a lot of people think seeing the stuff through the plexi is just pointless - and since the door has probably never been closed, I'd agree! SOME day, I should finish that out... Only been here 3 years...
I will say though that I've come to appreciate having security totally separate from the home's structured media with just some sort of passthrough to tie in phone and ethernet. Get your security system in a compact enclosure and close the door - there's no reason to be in there much. I also like having all the power separate which is what my 20" OnQ can is moving towards so it can hide everything. I hate having a huge brick of power supplies in the cabinet.
I will say though that I've come to appreciate having security totally separate from the home's structured media with just some sort of passthrough to tie in phone and ethernet. Get your security system in a compact enclosure and close the door - there's no reason to be in there much. I also like having all the power separate which is what my 20" OnQ can is moving towards so it can hide everything. I hate having a huge brick of power supplies in the cabinet.
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