Elk M1 Keypads

[potts.mike]

I am in the process of buying a second hand elk panel and trying to figure out what I need to add. I know I need I power supply, battery, and ethernet interface. Does the ELK require a keypad? If so is the basic arming station suffice or does it need to be the M1KP2?

 

[jpmargis]

A keypad is not required. You can use a key switch to arm and disarm and a bi-color LED to indicate status, but this is a bit primitive. Unless you are really strapped for cash, buy a KP2.

You should also add a siren or two, window and door contacts, and maybe a speaker to your shopping list.

 

[Del91574]

While most here have seemed to suggest and press for the KP2, I would recommend going with a normal KP just for the simple fact you do get a temperature sensor and 2 more F-keys. The display and keys are also easier to read/have larger printing.

IMHO, I'd take the normal unit before the non-standard trade size cutout KP2 in 95% of the times, although the only plus I give a KP2 is you can mount a SPF-12 behind the keypad, though I'd rather have my siren noise come from elsewhere instead of where I'm trying to silence the system.

 

[tmbrown97]

My feelings about the keypad are exactly the opposite of DEL - the extra function keys are nice as is the temperature sensor and even the spot to hide the prox reader inside... but it's just ugly in comparison to a nice looking KP2 flushmounted. And I prefer having the sound come specifically from the points where I interact with the alarm vs. somewhere else in the house. And the whole trade-size thing means nothing to me - drywall is cheap.

And it's true that a keypad isn't completely required, I believe, but for most things like Elk RMS, M1ToGo, eKeypad, etc - they all follow an installed keypad - function keys, area, etc. This can be KP, KP2 or KP3 - I'm not sure if the KPAS counts - it may.

 

[gatchel]

There are times when you need a keypad for things. Definitely install a KP that can access the Elk menus...

 

[apostolakisl]

I think you should consider what it is you plan on doing with the keypad(s).

If you are simply arming/disarming then a kpas will do the trick just fine and practically be invisible. I have one of these.

The new nav one looks pretty cool, I don't have one to tell you anything more than that.
The KP has a ton of functionality, but I agree with work2play, they are kind of ugly. I do use the extra f-keys and temp as well as display messages on the screen (like take out garbage, sprinkler zone x, happy birthday, outside temp, inside temp, etc).
I don't really give a hoot where the sound is coming from, so long as I can hear it. So if your system speaker is in ear shot, I would put that at the bottom of the list.

Again, main point is what do YOU plan on doing at/with the keypad.

 

[potts.mike]

For now I see it as just being an arm/disarm application but who knows what I will think up, Pretty sure I will just order a KP2 and be done with it.

I am looking at a 42" Leviton enclosure, is there anything better for the elk?

 

[tmbrown97]

The Elk doesn't have a decent way to mount in anything other than an Elk can - though a bunch of us have done it... just means drilling the can to mount the M1. The plastic shell it's in opens easily to allow you to mount the back of the enclosure, then reassemble the board in-place.

There are some marketed universal brackets and I wasted money on a few options before giving up and just drilling it.

 

[potts.mike]

I take it people just use short self tapping screws on the non elk cans?

 

[Del91574]

After installing many M1's in multiple enclosures, I went to Elk's facility and saw how a panel can really get put together. If you use their 28" can and the SWG's, you really can put a very large system together in one cabinet, while still maintaining servicability. The key is knowing "where" the certain sized boards land within the enclosure and how to lay out the panel itself. Once you see one, it really makes sense, with the exception of a larger battery. The down side is you may need to buy some of Elk's plates or mounts and definately SWG's for items that don't come with them.

If you're intending on combining structured wiring with that equation, which I'm not truly on board with that method, then you're going to need a larger enclosure or multiples. I generally prefer keeping security separate from distribuiting other items.

 

[tmbrown97]

:hesaid:

I used to think the giant can was a great idea - but honestly I now prefer the idea of a dedicated can for security with a simple path to get ethernet to your other structured media can. That way you don't even open the door to the security panel unless you absolutely have to.

 

[potts.mike]

I think I'd rather have a can half empty than run out of space. All my structured wiring is in the garage on plywood at the moment.

 

[Del91574]

I doubt that most would kill the space in a 28" can for an M1 install....you can really put a very large system in one of those units with SWG's, even considering dead space for cabling. The only items that start taking up space is maintaining the bend radius for an ethernet cable on an XEP and then the same for XSP's and their DB9's. I can speak for my own house, with literally everything wired, multiple distribution points, 2 power supplies, batteries, etc, with a pair of 28" cans piped together for my M1, I'm still swimming with space.

Even putting a whole house's structured cabling and patch points in a second (or third) 28" can, I doubt that most would ever be able to run out of room, as long as wise choices were made for modules to be installed inside.

A giant single can looks good on paper until you start factoring in all the cable entry points and the volume of cables that'll end up inside of it, your working room ends up being close to nil at some point.

While it may end up being in the realm of tin foil hats, I personally don't want another trade (CATV, Telco, etc.) in the same enclosure as where my security panel and wiring is, there's just no need for it IMHO and too many people within those trades end up touching things they either shouldn't or they don't understand how it works (not knocking them, it's just not within their scope and world).

While unrelated, we had a house that was fully roughed and run to enclosures with CCTV and security in one and structured in another. Even though the agreement was for them to provide service to the enclosure, no further, and get the STB's working, the CATV/Telcom tech took it upon themselves to land every cable in our security cabinet to punchdowns and splitters, cutting all the cabling "right and tight" with no slack. They were really proud of their work, until we came in to finish our end and none of the cabling would reach to any connection or device within the enclosure.