Elk M1G keypad wiring.....anything in addition to Cat5E?

[chrisexv6]

Currently running some keypad wires for an Elk M1 install. I know Cat5E handles basically all of it, I was wondering if there is any other "best practice" for other wiring that I might want nearby the keypad.

Ill be using the surface mount keypad, so it should have some sounder built into it. Ive also read I can use the spare pair from a Cat5 cable to feed an external sounder, so that seems handled already as well. Anything else I might want to run? Im leaving pull strings at each wire location anyway, so I can always add more, but figured while I have everything out Ill get as many ducks in order as I can.

Thanks.

-Chris

 

[wuench]

You can use an SP12 speakers behind your keypads. IMHO separate speaker wire is a better option than trying to use spare wires from a CAT5 but people have used the spare wires for speakers. These will terminate to different places in you can, so using a separate wire makes that a whole lot easier to do. Other wire you'll need is below, you won't want to use CAT5 for these. Cat5 is a waste of money and space, you will find it difficult to terminate for sensors and hard to keep neat. It really is best to use the appropriate wire for the appropriate purpose.

For 2 wire sensors (doors, windows, etc) 22/2
For 4 wire sensors (motion detectors, etc) 22/4
For smoke sensors 18/2 Firewire
Speakers 18/2,20/2.

 

[chrisexv6]

Thanks!

Yeah, I wasnt intending on using it for sensors (I did get a bunch of Cat5E cheap, but I know its senseless to shove 8 conductors where I only need 2 or 4)

Dont have any smaller gauge speaker wire on hand (I think the 14ga I have is a litlte overkill ), so Ill just pull it later if I feel like I need to.

Is cat5E acceptable to a M1XSP? Now that Im about to wire one in I see 2 of the wires are for voltage.....is 24ga Cat5E acceptable for that? I know the manual says Cat5E is ideal, but just wanted to be sure.

 

[wuench]

Yeah, for all the bus wiriing Cat5e is acceptable, using an M1DBH makes things a little easier.

 

[Del91574]

Depends on if you're running any additional items off the input/output that is at the keypad, such as wiring a relay to the open collector or further field wiring, such as a weigand reader.

 

[chrisexv6]

Thanks guys.

The 2nd floor keypad (the one in question) wont be running anything off the keypad itself.

Just finished pulling Cat5 and power to a P983 for the Uplink 2500 (minor progress, but there is a Giants game to be watched soon!!).

Elk has an interesting setup for sure with the data bus, etc. Makes it pretty much foolproof as long as you watch your wiring colors and have the appropriate manuals.

 

[Del91574]

On the subject of using a DBH and C5, the item I've seen most people forget about is factoring in the total current draw of all the devices connected to the hub when driven off the panel, since the DBH cascades the power.

 

[chrisexv6]

I wired the XSP like I would be using the data hub (twisting the solid green and orange together, and the white/green and white/orange).

The plan is to have 2 keypads, 1 xsp and 1 internet module. if power is going to be an issue I will just wire everything as home run and then do the appropriate wiring in the can. Wanted to avoid that if possible because the hub seems to be a cleaner solution, especially if I end up toying with the system.

 

[wuench]

You should be fine with that. The XEP doesn't attach to the bus, but you can run your calcs for all your sensors and modules and see if you are under 1 amp with the XEP powered off the aux bus, if not use a separate adapter for it. Of course theres no need to have the XEP powered during a power outage if you aren't going to have your other network equipment powered as well (switches, router, dsl modem, etc). So having it powered on it's own adapter will give you more time on battery.

 

[chrisexv6]

All my network equipment will be backed up on a UPS, and should really only run on battery for a short period (generator feeding the house).

The Elk setup will all be plugged into a circuit thats fed from my generator transfer panel, so everything will remain powered once the gen is up and running. I ran the power wire to the P983 all the way back to where the main can will be, so that will be powered as well.

 

[signal15]

I used 23ga Cat6 for everything. I didn't use 22/2 or any of that stuff. My reasoning was that I was purchasing 1000ft spools for $70 (they are up to $100 or so now) and I'd have a LOT of spare pairs in each location going forward if I needed to add anything. Plus, I punched it ALL down to 110 blocks before running to the ELK so I never have to worry about wires being to short or whatever.

 

[chrisexv6]

I thought about doing that but boy is that a lot of extra wire, hole space, etc required.

I actually got an incredible deal on 3 rolls of Cat5E (real copper, not the aluminized stuff), but Im only going to use it for anything on the data bus.

Having to drill through my window frames to help hide the contacts, I wanted the smallest wire possible.....jacketed 22/2 requires a fairly small opening and its white so it looks halfway decent (on my horizontal slider window the contact needs to be about 1" off the side of the frame........on all of my casement windows the contact is right on the frame so the wiring is hidden)

 

[apostolakisl]

Some of the keypads support a zone off the keypad, so, if you want to save a zone at the panel you might pull one zone wire to your keypads.

 

[chrisexv6]

Some of the keypads support a zone off the keypad, so, if you want to save a zone at the panel you might pull one zone wire to your keypads.

Thanks, I did remember that.

Sadly, Ill be well past the number of hardwired inputs necessary so the keypad saving me one or two doesnt solve a whole lot.

Im guessing Elks' intention was to have a keypad near a door and then the door wired to the keypad zone? Its a good idea, Im just not putting my keypads right near my doors.

Can the keypad zone input be used for a motion or glassbreak? That might help me a bit.

 

[apostolakisl]

As far as using the keypad zone to do a motion detector.

Yes, but it would require a little "rigging". The motions take 2 conductors for the alarming portion, but they also need power. You can get your 12v off of the same wires that feed the power to the keypad. It would be a little unconventional. As always, keep track of your amperage.

And yeah, who doesn't go over the 16 zones. But those extra few zones you get on the keypad may be what keeps you from having to buy that last zone expander.