Elk M1G Pre-wire Questions

[autoidiot]

I’m in the process of a pre-wire for my planned purchase of an Elk M1G in my house currently under construction. Thanks to this board, I think I’ve done an OK job so far, and now I’m back for more help.

Here’s what I think I’m all set on (i.e. I think I’ve got a decent plan here, but chime in if I’m headed down a wrong/bad path):
• Door & Window contacts—22/2 wire homerunned to each sensor (will be buying input expansion boards), EOL at each contact.
• Motion & Glass Breaks—22/4 wire homerunned, EOL at sensors
• Keypad(s) –Cat5 to each location. 2 runs to keypad by front door
• Smoke Detectors—18/4 “firewire†(for 2 wire smoke detectors). EOL on last detector in chain, but located at panel.
• Garage Door—1 Cat 5 to opener, 1 to door
• Doorbell—1 cat5 to doorbell, 1 to transformer

Here’s where I need help (i.e. I’m sure I’m confused):
• Wireless Receiver—I see that a special harness is required to connect RF receiver. Does this mean that receiver has to be located by panel? I don’t have current plans for this, but figure I might need it down the road. I want to make sure receiver will be located where it will work with future sensors throughout the house. I guess what I’m trying to figure out is if I should buy the harness now to run to future location for RF receiver.
• Thermostat/Furnace—I’m assuming I should run a cat5 to the thermostat. Should I run 1 to the furnace as well? Is the standard thermostat wire from the thermostat to the furnace OK, or should I replace that with cat5 as well (furnace guy already ran wire, but it’s easy to change now).
• Speaker vs Siren—This is a DIY residential install. Is a siren required/highly recommended? If I use a siren, should I use speaker as well? Where are siren and speaker(s) typically located?
• 2-way listen-in/talk interface—I’m completely confused on this…is this used as intercom throughout the house, or for alarm monitoring company to speak with homeowners or ??? Any recommendations on where to wire speakers and/or microphones?
• Phone “remote control†—Manual states that any phone can be used as keypad. Given that, how many keypads would be recommended for a “typical†install? Originally I was assuming 1 by front door and 1 in Master Bedroom.
• Structured Wiring Box —Not sure if I’ve given enough info to answer this one…but I’m trying to figure out if I should get the package with the 14†box, or get it w/o box and buy a larger box. If I outgrow the 14†box, is it easy enough to interconnect different boxes, or should I just buy the biggest box I can fit in the space I have?

Thanks again for any help you can offer. I’m sure I’ll be back soon with more questions. You have all been a huge help!

Thanks,
Dan

 

[rfdesq]

Wireless Receiver:

The harness only gives you pigtails from the M1 connector. The Caddx can be located I think 200' from the panel with 22/4 wire.

Thermostat:

I would read the manuals of the thermostats that are compatible with the M1.

Speaker vs. Siren:

UL installation you can't use a speaker outside. I use speakers inside, output 1, and sirens outside, output 2. Indoor speaker(s) are placed where you best can hear smoke alarm, regular alarm, and audible alerts. Outside siren I put high up under the eaves in the stainless steel ELK case with a strobe attached.

Listen in:

I believe they can be used for intercom and monitoring company. Decide where you might be to communicate with the central station.

Keypads:

Front door, master bedroom, and anywhere else you might enter the home. Remember it's not only a keypad but a thermometer, panic, and automation control.

Structured Wiring Box:

The bigger the better. I find the 14" box barely big enough for the M1.

Good luck.

 

[Mike]

For the thermostat, the wire to the furnace is not typically cat5, it is a heavier multi-conductor wire (from my limited experience) from 3 to 7 conductors. From the thermostat to the panel (M1G in this case) I believe 4 conductor is typically used, but cat5 would cover you. I have a HAI RC80B hooked up.

See this link:
http://www.hometech.com/techwire/tstat.html

For remotely mounting the caddx module, you can use one of these enclosures:
http://www.automatedoutlet.com/product.php...&cat=159&page=2

Buy the bigger box. I added another 14" box below the one that came with it and I don't like it (should have gotten the 28").

CO2 detectors?

 

[elcano]

I believe that the EOL for the smoke detectors is not 2200 Ohms. I think it is 680, but please check the manual.

 

[Digger]

The EOL for 2 wire smokes was changed to 820 ohms. All other EOL's are the 2200 ohms.

Also I wish I had gone with the 28" cabinet. Its more money but in the long run better and maybe even cheaper in some ways.

 

[Steve]

22/2 is probably sufficient for the garage door, both sensors and opener. I'd probably use 18 or 20 GA solid for the doorbell, not Cat5 (per UL). You would wire it like this. Depending on your house and part of the country another option for the siren is in the attic right by the ventilation soffits. This makes it invisible from outside. The outdoor strobe is a nice finishing touch. The listen in is primarily for monitoring but I believe you could dial in and activate it also, so you would put the mics wherever you would want to pick up sound from in the house. Don't plan on using phone 'remote' for daily activities. Put a regular keypad by each entry. The phone remote is great for automation control or access from outside. And as far as the can is concerned - size does matter! You can either keep the 14" for the controller and a few modules and put another can adjoining it, or just use a large can and put everything in it. I am debating ripping 14" can out and putting a few 42" ones. Just like a hard drive, you will find a way to fill it up quickly, so put in the largest one you can fit/afford. Will you have any irrigation?

 

[rfdesq]

I believe in not hiding the outdoor siren/strobe combination. I put it high enough so as not to be vandalized, 24 hour tamper supervised. Low enough to be a visual deterent to even a drugged out burglar. You are probably going to put up alarm signs and stickers, why hide the fact that you really do have an alarm? You will never know how many burglars you may have scared away after they saw that nice shinny stainless steel outdoor enclosure.

 

[autoidiot]

Thanks for all the responses. Based on the responses, and a bit more research, here are the updates to the plan:
•Wireless Receiver--I will run 22/4 to my upstairs attic to cover any RF needs in that vicinity. My equipment closet is already centrally located downstairs, so I should be covered there.
•Thermostat--Run Cat5 from thermostat to Elk. HVAC guy already ran a 5 conductor wire from thermostat to furnace
•Speaker/Siren--I'll wire for 1 siren outside (not sure exactly where yet), and at least 2 speakers inside (by front door and in Master bedroom)
•Doorbell--Will wire per Elk-930 instructions, using 18/2 solid wire
•Microphones--Will wire to same locations as speakers. I am considering also running to each room for future VR/automation control, but haven't decided on that for sure.
•Keypads--Will wire for 4 (front door, garage, master bedroom and 2nd floor hall by deck access). Not sure how many keypads I'll buy initially, though.
•Structured Wiring Box--Sounds like the jury says to go bigger. I've got to take a closer look at my space and check into prices, but it seems like the 28" or bigger is the way to go.

Thanks again for all your help. Please pass along any other thoughts you might have. I'm hoping to finish most of this wiring this weekend, then it's onto my data/audio/video wiring.

Dan