ELK water shutoff valve not working on OUT 3

[kgingerich]

I installed my ELK-WSV and ran 18 awg 4 conductor wire to the M1G panel. I wired up the red, black, and white wires per the instructions that came with the WSV to the relay OUT 3 on the panel.

I wrote an automation rule to turn on OUT 3 whenever any of my water sensor zones become not ready. I wrote the rule so that OUT 3 would stay on for 5 minutes so I can test that it works.

I tested the rule and can hear a click in the panel and OUT 3 LED light turns on but the water valve doesn't close. I used a multimeter to test for 12VDC on OUT3 and get nothing on either the N/C or N/O leads.

Any ideas?

Kyle

 

[Lagerhead]

tested the rule and can hear a click in the panel and OUT 3 LED light turns on but the water valve doesn't close. I used a multimeter to test for 12VDC on OUT3 and get nothing on either the N/C or N/O leads.

Some ideas...
- Be sure you have +12VDC on the center pole of the Output 3 relay (in other words, a good supply connection)
- Check for shorts out at the valve control - do you have power at the end of the line?
- Disconnect all wires and try to activate the valve control directly from your power supply (ensure it is working)
- To check for a bad relay -- disconnect all wires from the relay and check for continuity (zero ohms) between the center pole and the N/O and N/C contacts as you toggle the relay

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Lagerhead gave some good checks in his post above.

A couple of other points after reading the instruction manual:

1. The schematic shows how to connect the valve using an external one amp capable 12 volt supply. If you are using the Elk M1's on-board supply you may have to watch that you aren't excedding its capability (add up all your device's current draws). You may have to use an external supply (as shown in that schematic).

2. You can do a simple test to see if the valve is working properly. Just get a 12 volt DC wall wart (capable of at least one amp) and touch the white (POS) and black (NEG) wires to it to open the valve. Then to close use the red (POS) and black (NEG) wires. While you are doing this connect your multimeter reading DC volts to the green (POS) and black (NEG) wires and you should see a 12 volt signal when the valve is closed.

 

[kgingerich]

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give them a try this evening. I do have an extra power supply which powers a lot of stuff in my system which was why i figured the panel itself had enough extra juice to run the WSV.

As for the extra power supply shown in the diagram... is that an optional thing or is it required because the panel doesn't provide 12VDC on OUT 3?

I'll report back findings this evening.
Kyle

 

[Lagerhead]

As for the extra power supply shown in the diagram... is that an optional thing or is it required because the panel doesn't provide 12VDC on OUT 3?

Output 3 is not powered. It does not provide any voltage. It is just a simple relay, a switch.

 

[kgingerich]

well duh there's my problem.

thanks