false alarm

[v1rtu0s1ty]

hey folks,

It's 3:30am and I am awake now. Our M1 suddenly got triggered. It was saying that the intrusion was on the kitchen window. I looked at the kitchen window and it was still tightly close. I cannot even disarm it. NextAlarm already contacted us and he placed me on test mode for 15 minutes. So, I just went down to the basement to turn it off totally.

Is there anything on the M1 that we can investigate/troubleshoot to tell us what really happened kinda like a forensic?

Thanks guys!

Neil

 

[rfdesq]

Check the log.

 

[Sandpiper]

Check the activation gap. Write as rule to announce when the switch closes and opens, or use a circuit "beeper".

Slowly, slowly open and close the window and take note of the activation points. Ideally it sould open at about 3/4 to 1 inch gap, and close at about 1/2 inch. If there is less gap, it may be prone to false alarms.

Also, check the termination for corrosion, and/or loose connection.

Last....make sure you are using the magnetic type of switch...the plunger (or push button) types are prone to false alarms.

 

[Spanky]

Check the log to see if the zone alarmed and immediately restored or remained violated for a period of time.

What is the loop response time for the zone. Use the slow response time set to 400 milliseconds.

Was the zone on the main control board or a zone expander?

Was the zone hardwired or wireless?

Was any other zone alarmed in the log?

You said you could not disarm. Explain?

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Well, I'm hoping that my M1 is still working. I found around noon today that water was dripping from copper pipe. My M1 isn't mounted, it's just laying flat on a rack. I noticed that that were some droplets on the area where we see the diagrams. I will turn it on next week to make sure it's totally dry. So, I'm guessing that a connection got shorted. I'm hoping that my M1 didn't get destroyed.

 

[mustangcoupe]

Neil,

Wishing you good luck and a healthy M1!

 

[Digger]

Well, I'm hoping that my M1 is still working. I found around noon today that water was dripping from copper pipe. My M1 isn't mounted, it's just laying flat on a rack. I noticed that that were some droplets on the area where we see the diagrams. I will turn it on next week to make sure it's totally dry. So, I'm guessing that a connection got shorted. I'm hoping that my M1 didn't get destroyed.

My guess is that it will be fine. I have seen worse then this. Years ago as a Commercial Fire Alarm Tech I saw some panels that were inside oil pumping stations that were completely submerged in oil and then cleaned with solvents and fired back up. They worked fine which amazed me at the time.

The M1 is a tough panel to damage. Not saying its impossible but its not easy. You can use a hair dryer on a low heat setting a few inches away to dry it out probably.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I think it's time now to buy a big can.

My system was still working fine when I was trying to disarm it. It was responding well.

I'll try the hair dryer tonight. I'm really sure that water wasn't really that strong as I saw the other water trails in my concrete floor.

Thanks guys! Whew! :huh:

 

[brotsten]

I think it's time now to buy a big can.

My system was still working fine when I was trying to disarm it. It was responding well.

I'll try the hair dryer tonight. I'm really sure that water wasn't really that strong as I saw the other water trails in my concrete floor.

Thanks guys! Whew! :huh:

Isopropyl alcohol bath or rinse works well.

Brian

 

[gizzmo]

Any time you have a false alarm

1) Check the loop voltage. This is the quickest way to spot a problem. Use a "normal" zone as a reference voltage. Higher reading=high resistance and low voltage= a short. I do this first because I'm lazy and want a reading before I tamper with any connections.

2) remove wire and check the ohm reading. If your a good boy you should see the EOL resistor value + a few (1 to 12)ohms depending on wire length.

3) If all is normal then look for gap distance, movement of protected item etc. Its also possible for an internal problem with the switch.

4) After all the above including switch replacement has failed to find the problem replace the wire if possible. I have had rodents chew and momentarily short but not sever the conductors. (if you use ITB "in the box resistors" you can omit this step)

Bottom line is that if you don't use a volt ohm meter your not really checking the circuit. I can't tell you how many times a tech has missed a problem because "it looked OK to me" And while I realize that none of the above had anything to do with your problem, step 1) would have taken you strait to the panel and the problem.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

My system is back since last week. It is working fine without any issues. I'm glad I bought ELK. Woohoo!!!