Hardwired Lighting System Using Cat5

[rosenqui]

One thing to consider is the "messaging" limits on the HAI and rule space limits on the Elk M1. Since serial strings are required, both controllers must send and receive a large number of messages to and from the KPL7. There is a limit on the Omni Pro II of 128 total messages (64 total with the Omni II). If you want to use several KPL7 stations and want to get fancy with button flashes etc. you could easily run out of messages (voice of experience here).

That's true for firmware versions that don't have built-in support, but according to an email I got from Scott @ HAI, they added native support for the KPL7 to the HAI firmware sometime last year, so that's a HUGE plus for HAI/KPL7 users.

It allows you to program an Omni without wasting message slots for the ASCII strings. You can write stuff like

WHEN KEYPAD 0 BUTTON 1 : RAMP TheatreLts TO 30%
WHEN GarageDr NOT READY : SET KEYPAD 0 LED 5 FLASH

That's probably not quite the right syntax for HAI, but you get the idea.

 

[sic0048]

I don't think Tony has officially annouced it yet, but they do have the ALC discounts listed on Setnet's website now. You do have to log in (registration is free) to see it apparently (but I'm automatically logged in so that might be wrong). Look on the home page on the right side in the "Use Coupons to Save Big" section.

 

[felixrosbergen]

It seems the controller parts of slightly discounted but the switches are not...i guess i was expecting something a little more dramatic....oh well..I'll still take advantage of it..

Who else in jumping in and starting their ALC install now?

 

[TonyStewart]

One thing to consider is the "messaging" limits on the HAI and rule space limits on the Elk M1. Since serial strings are required, both controllers must send and receive a large number of messages to and from the KPL7. There is a limit on the Omni Pro II of 128 total messages (64 total with the Omni II). If you want to use several KPL7 stations and want to get fancy with button flashes etc. you could easily run out of messages (voice of experience here).

That's true for firmware versions that don't have built-in support, but according to an email I got from Scott @ HAI, they added native support for the KPL7 to the HAI firmware sometime last year, so that's a HUGE plus for HAI/KPL7 users.

It allows you to program an Omni without wasting message slots for the ASCII strings. You can write stuff like

WHEN KEYPAD 0 BUTTON 1 : RAMP TheatreLts TO 30%
WHEN GarageDr NOT READY : SET KEYPAD 0 LED 5 FLASH

That's probably not quite the right syntax for HAI, but you get the idea.

EXCELLENT! The same is true for the M1. You can get the protocol for both brands in our docs section.

TS

 

[TonyStewart]

It seems the controller parts of slightly discounted but the switches are not...i guess i was expecting something a little more dramatic....oh well..I'll still take advantage of it..

Who else in jumping in and starting their ALC install now?

OnQ advised that the margins are too close on the switches.

TS

 

[Sacedog]

It seems the controller parts of slightly discounted but the switches are not...i guess i was expecting something a little more dramatic....oh well..I'll still take advantage of it..

Who else in jumping in and starting their ALC install now?

I purchased all of my ALC control hardware and branch hubs from SetNet last year, and have yet to get started replacing switches. I hope to be starting this in the next few weeks, as I am rapidly completing items on my to-do list. Lighting comes right after thermostats (which I got connected, and working last night; I just need to add the screen to CQC) and whole house audio (the Russound stuff is in and working, once again, just need to add the screens to CQC).

I have decided to connect my ALC to my Elk, as the controller that I purchased connects directly to the DBH. I was thinking of connecting my ALC to the CQC server, but thought that it would be more robust through the Elk.

Speaking of which, is the cable between the ALC controller and the Elk DBH, just a standard Straight Through patch cable with RJ45s on either end?

 

[TonyStewart]

It seems the controller parts of slightly discounted but the switches are not...i guess i was expecting something a little more dramatic....oh well..I'll still take advantage of it..

Who else in jumping in and starting their ALC install now?

I purchased all of my ALC control hardware and branch hubs from SetNet last year, and have yet to get started replacing switches. I hope to be starting this in the next few weeks, as I am rapidly completing items on my to-do list. Lighting comes right after thermostats (which I got connected, and working last night; I just need to add the screen to CQC) and whole house audio (the Russound stuff is in and working, once again, just need to add the screens to CQC).

I have decided to connect my ALC to my Elk, as the controller that I purchased connects directly to the DBH. I was thinking of connecting my ALC to the CQC server, but thought that it would be more robust through the Elk.

Speaking of which, is the cable between the ALC controller and the Elk DBH, just a standard Straight Through patch cable with RJ45s on either end?

You can connect the Elk to ALC controller directly to the daatbus Screw terminals on the controller or by using a WO18A ribbon cable (GREAT for bench testing). When attaching more than two devices to the bus the eLK-m1dbh Databus Hub is recommended. The M1DBH attaches to the screw terminals.

Don't forget to set the end of line terminations jumpers.

 

[beelzerob]

I'm sure it's buried back in this thread somewhere....but what again is the standard as far as which wires in the cat5 bundle to connect to the switch wires? I know it doesn't MATTER...but I'd still rather use whatever the common method is.

 

[beelzerob]

Nevermind, found it.... + is white/blue, - is blue

 

[beelzerob]

Ok, I concede defeat.

The diagrams from setnets docs made 3-ways easy to understand...and fun! (oh...3-way SWITCH WIRING, by the way).

However, I quickly noticed my 3-way I was tackling (the garage) didn't look like that diagram. So I did a google search and found this handy guide for 6 of the different ways they might be wired.

I think I've exceeded my limit for what I feel I can handle unraveling. It's too bad...I got my first onq relay in yesterday, to control a shower exhaust fan. I guess today I'll spend time just getting the controller hooked up too.

 

[Monk]

However, I quickly noticed my 3-way I was tackling (the garage) didn't look like that diagram. So I did a google search and found this handy guide for 6 of the different ways they might be wired.

A most excellent find on the 3-way switch wiring graphics...

 

[beelzerob]

Hehe...ya, problem is, just by looking at the switches and the wires in the gang boxes, I don't think I'd ever be able to figure out which one mine is. All I know is that one of the switches only has the 4-wires going to it...no wire nuts in there. But there's at least 3 of the diagrams that include that possibility.

 

[IVB]

heh, and the damn electrician who ran my 3way lighting used all black wires, so i need to break out the multimeter and a long ass cable to see which is which. royal PITA.

 

[Monk]

heh, and the damn electrician who ran my 3way lighting used all black wires, so i need to break out the multimeter and a long ass cable to see which is which. royal PITA.

I feel your pain IVB

Save the long-ass cable sometimes if you are sure the power is down on all the wire by connecting wires together and reading continuity on the other end - helps id the physical cable sometimes. And of course, that isn't for everyone, you must already have a good idea / assumption.

 

[apostolakisl]

I would think real hard about hardwiring your house any different then normal. There will always be tons of companies and products out there to service and or reoutfit your house if it is wired the way 99.9999999% of all houses are done. If you do something different. . .well I think you are playing with fire. I just built a house and wanted automation so I went with a plc system and it is working perfectly and can totally be converted back to a normal house if I ever want to sell or if insteon goes bankrupt or whatever.

A friend of mine put a hard wired system in and had nothing but headaches. I don't remember which brand but he ended up selling the house because of the problems.