If your backlights are all of the way down then you are correct. I have mine at about 8 or so and the KP version so they are closer to 80 ma or more each. I though you were more like 650 ma plus.
Help planning Elk system
- Thread starter SnyperBob
- Start date
If your backlights are all of the way down then you are correct. I have mine at about 8 or so and the KP version so they are closer to 80 ma or more each. I though you were more like 650 ma plus.
Monk
Active Member
That all seems very low - to the point of a decimal place, or is it just me?
Neurorad
Senior Member
Are your batteries in enclosures?
I'm wondering about the largest battery sizes that will fit into a standard enclosure. Will I need the enclsoure extension, to provide more depth?
Yes, both of my 1280 are in an ELK 28" can -- about 4" deep.
The 12180 seems to be another that will still fit. This place (http://www.elkproducts.com/pdf/Battery_sales_sheet.pdf) gives dimensions. When I was browsing at my local Eecol supply store, I noticed that all their batteries (of various brands) look like the same sizes as these. I suspect that there are only a couple of battery manufacturers in the world, and they rebrand their product for the wide variety of brands. Major appliances are the same: GE makes Whirlpool, Kitchenaid, Maytag, and other brands, often in the same factory with the same parts (except for the brand badge). Unlike appliances, the batteries at Eecol were all about the same price for equivalent capacities in each brand. There were no "no-name" brand ones :lol:
Neurorad
Senior Member
Thanks for enabling my laziness. :lol:
The 1280, yes, is also 3" depth.
I didn't know the 14" and 28" Elk cans had different depths.
SWB14 = 3.5" depth
SWB28 = 4.5" depth
Channel Vision 50" = 3 5/8" depth.
Channel Vision 50" can Expansion Ring adds 2" to depth.
Eecol seems pretty cool - the local electric supply house that I've used doesn't have much of anything on display - it's basically a distribution warehouse. You're helped at a sales counter, and can go look at the shelves by special request (what other GRI sensors do you carry?).
The 1280, yes, is also 3" depth.
I didn't know the 14" and 28" Elk cans had different depths.
SWB14 = 3.5" depth
SWB28 = 4.5" depth
Channel Vision 50" = 3 5/8" depth.
Channel Vision 50" can Expansion Ring adds 2" to depth.
Eecol seems pretty cool - the local electric supply house that I've used doesn't have much of anything on display - it's basically a distribution warehouse. You're helped at a sales counter, and can go look at the shelves by special request (what other GRI sensors do you carry?).
I put both of my 26 aH batteries in a Marine/Automotive enclosure designed for car batteries, placed a 5 A fuse on each battery right at the terminal, and ran flexible conduit to the panel (this limits the wiring leaving the battery enclosure to Class 2 circuit and I used 12 awg wire in flexible conduit). The battery enclosure is sitting on a shelf right below the control enclosures (2 of the ELK-SWB28).
A 7 aH battery has a short circuit current of nearly 100 Amps which could easily cause a fire (a 26 aH battery can almost start a car). To protect the wiring from the battery itself to the M1, a power supply etc a fuse should be placed as close to the battery terminal as possible. If the battery leads are damaged you do not want a risk of fire. This is especially true for battery leads outside of the cabinet (as in my case).
WayneW
Senior Member
Basically, a power supply or battery give the amount of current needed, based upon the resistance of the load, up to its maximum. A short circuit has low resistance, therefore high current. The output current of a power supply rating is typically its MAXIMUM value. It is perfectly happy giving much less current than its maximum, although the efficiency may drop or the voltage may be higher than desired.
A device only draws as much current as it needs, based upon circuitry or resistance. The ratings plate of a device indicated the max power it should draw in normal operation. It may draw much less in still-normal use. It may draw a LOT more current if the device fails, hence the need for a fuse (or other protection) close to the power source. That fuse also protects against wiring failures.
The installation instructions for the M1 have the picture of the battery near the PCB and the "shaded area" to show that all wiring leaving the cabinet should stay at least 0.25 inches from the battery leads for seperation of Power Limited Wiring from the Non Power Limited Battery leads. In my case putting the fuse directly at the battery terminal accomplishes the same end result by making the battery leads Class 2 which is basically equivalent to the Power Limited Wiring in this case.
SnyperBob
Active Member
Hello,
I'm working on hooking up my system and I don't think I planned ahead enough for it.
I was looking over some other installs and I think I need to get some more things. Can you let me know what these are? Pic is from Cort's install:
I would guess that one is for negative and one is for positive power. Would I run pos and neg from all of my wired motion detectors and glass breaks to those rails? (Don't know what they're called). For my contact sensors that don't need power, I wire them directly into the M1 panel?
What are those rail things called, and do you have an idea where I could buy something like that?
I'm working on hooking up my system and I don't think I planned ahead enough for it.
I was looking over some other installs and I think I need to get some more things. Can you let me know what these are? Pic is from Cort's install:
I would guess that one is for negative and one is for positive power. Would I run pos and neg from all of my wired motion detectors and glass breaks to those rails? (Don't know what they're called). For my contact sensors that don't need power, I wire them directly into the M1 panel?
What are those rail things called, and do you have an idea where I could buy something like that?