Help routing wire

[Neurorad]

Understood, but thinking ahead, the person buying your home may want to repurpose the basement workshop as an exercise room - make it easy for them using some minor adjustments. The removable OSB is an awesome idea.

 

[Steve]

I think you're right though Steve. I'm going to switch to 12/2 for all circuits except stuff like lights, so that even if I use 15A breakers I'll be set if I need to up it to 20A. Thanks for the sanity check!

Is there another option similar to ALC, where I can control it with simple momentary pushbuttons from across the room, without needing some kind of controller board? If not I guess I'm going to have to get one of those remote control outlets specifically for dust collectors, but they're rather expensive. I was pleased with my cheaper solution using what I had on hand.

Do yourself a favor and just use 12ga and 20A breakers from the start for all outlets. Don't forget, motors have a startup inrush current that will usually be at least a few amps above its normal running current draw. Any outlet should accommodate the worst inrush current PLUS room to spare. Realistically you are even cutting it to close for my liking with 20A circuits for 15 or 16A rated loads. You may want to even consider 10ga and 30A breakers just for the extra safety margin. I just watch a 40 year old landmark building here burn to the ground and their initial speculation is wiring. The few hundred extra dollars or less that it will cost for the heavier wires and larger breakers and outlets will pay off hundreds of times over in peace of mind and safety. 20A MINIMUM, If this is all 110 stuff as I imagine and you have a Kill-A-Watt, plug it in and see what the startup current and run current is and design around facts, not ratings. I once burned up a 15A module with a 12A load and I later found inrush current was almost 16A.

As for control, maybe you could us e the Elk 9200 Contactor? You can use your planned ALC device to switch the contactor on/off, or look at the 72A00 load control module from HAI.

 

[apostolakisl]

I'm with Steve on running the larger wire. I don't know how many feet you are running, but I bet it doesn't hardly cost any more at all. You might even consider pulling a 240 line. I ran one into my workshop figuring I would never use it, but I did (welder).

You just never know when some awesome piece of equipment that needs that electricity might come your way.

 

[beelzerob]

Hmm.....well, I did plug in the killawatt with table saw (15 amp) and the jointer/planer (13 amp), and ya, the first reading when turning it on did register above 15 amps. It's a wonder we've gotten along this long on extension cords with other loads on the circuit as well, and only blew a breaker once.

If I had dedicated outlets for particular pieces of equipment then I might put in a 30. But I think going 12/2 (which I have) and 20 amp breakers for all heavy equipment outlets is a good idea, and safe enough for me. So, I need special outlets for that, right?

 

[beelzerob]

Ya, it's surprising I haven't picked up a 220 piece of equipment yet. But the subpanel in the closet will have 220 in it, and if I ever end up with a piece, then I"ll just use some conduit on the surface and run it where needed. I'd rather do that then put a 220 outlet somewhere randomly.

 

[Steve]

Not really special per se, just rated 20A and a slight blade mod, but regular plugs fit in them fine.. They are available in HD, Lowes, etc right by the 15's.

 

[beelzerob]

Ok, I know what those are then. I've got a few in the garage. I'll have to take back this sacks worth of 15 A outlets I got at surplus city (man, I LOVE that place).

For controlling the dust collector, the HAI component is way too expensive. And the Elk route is the same cost as just getting a remote controlled outlet specifically for dust collectors. I was hoping to avoid that expense, and also wanted more than just 1 remote to turn the thing on...you KNOW we're going to be seaching the shop for that thing before the day is done.....

 

[beelzerob]

Ok, next challenge (and thanks for the help on the previous routing issue, it resolved nicely).

I have to get power from my main panel to my subpanel. Of course, as it happens, *all* of my low voltage is surrounding my main panel.

The panel is in the corner, and I have to get the power to the opposite corner, and all of my low voltage runs through the room.

Here's a topdown view that explains it better.

Main panel in bottom left, sub panel in upper right, green represents path of 95% of my low voltage lines, including speaker wire.

If I follow either outside wall, then it goes parallel to the wires for at least some distance. My initial thought is to take it maybe halfway up the left side, then just cross the entire mess at 90 deg and then into the middle of the room.

Would buying a large piece of conduit help for the section that is running parallel to the low voltage before I turn it to cross at 90 deg?

Thanks for the help so far!

 

[Neurorad]

How about surface mount (in rigid steel conduit, or similar), low on the wall, off to the right as your facing the main panel, behind that vertical white PVC pipe, well below the window, behind the shelves? Where does that blue/yellow bundle go? Outside?

Do you have other plans for that wall? Will the room ever be finished with drywall?

Edit -

 

[beelzerob]

That room will never be "finished"...it's devoted to exactly what it looks like...my wiring mess.

The PVC pipe is up tight against the wall and goes from the floor to ceiling, so theres no going behind it. The yellow blue bundle goes to the outside (pump pipe and wire), and humorously it also goes parallel to everything for a short ways.

So, follow the wall in conduit down near the floor? That would keep it the furthest away, but there are *numerous* things up against the wall that would have to be moved back to make room....I'm not sure if I actually have the time to do all of that (I need to be done with this probably by the end of this week).

Does metal conduit eliminate the issue, or just minimize it? If so, Id rather put it in conduit and take it across the ceiling at 90 deg.

 

[Neurorad]

I'm not sure how well metal conduit would diminish inductive interference.

As Steve said, you're prob fine crossing at 90 degrees.

Which LV cables would cross if you followed the above red arrow at the ceiling level?

 

[beelzerob]

Oh, there's maybe a half dozen wires that drop down from the ceiling around the perimeter....only 1 speaker wire I think. Those could all be made to cross at 90 also.

So conduit isn't much of a shield....but crossing at 90 is pretty effective?

If I followed the ceiling around the room, then I'd be maintaining about a 3 ft separation from the hv line and all the lv wires.

 

[mustangcoupe]

I'm not sure how well metal conduit would diminish inductive interference.

Actually Metal conduit is a good shield just make sure it is grounded properly, or else it will become the radiating antenna itself