SnyperBob
Active Member
Hi everyone,
I have some questions on how to get my detached garage hooked into my Elk. I have come across a few other threads about detached garages and got some ideas.
Right now I have two cat5's running from my Elk M1G out to the garage that I can use. I don't have any expanders or keypad for out in the garage yet.
The last two days I spent a little time trying to get my garage hooked into my Elk panel. I installed a garage overhead door sensor and a sensor for the service (man) door as well. I put EOL resistors near both sensors. I hooked both of those sensors into 4 wires from one of my cat5 wires. I also ran a wire from the back of my garage door opener button that is inside the garage. That's the button that you press to raise and lower the overhead door. I hooked those two wires to another two wires in that same cat5 running to the garage.
So right now I am using one cat5 that goes from the Elk M1G to the detached garage. 6 of the 8 wires in that cat5 are in use. Two for the overhead door, two for the service door and two to control the garage opener.
I hooked the doors in at the Elk M1G and they work as expected. I hooked the opener wires into Output 3 on the M1G, using the N/O connection.
I programmed everything up and I can open/close the garage door via the Elk now, and the doors both report their status correctly.
Here's some questions I have:
Should I set up the detached garage as a separate zone?
I do not have a keypad out in the garage yet. I think I will have to have one so that I will be able to arm/disarm the garage separately?
Issue is, if the wife comes home and parks in the garage, the alarm system inside the house will go off if she doesn't disarm inside the house before the entry delay expires. Can I set a different delay if the garage door is opened or something?
This would seem less secure, I guess I should just get another keypad ASAP?
I have a Sears/Craftsman garage door opener system. it's about 3 years old, 1/2 horsepower, has the two laser safety sensors, and has the garage door button. I connected my two wires that run to the Elk directly to the garage door opener button. I understand that when Output 3 closes, it shorts those wires?
After using Output 3 a few times to raise/lower the door (testing), it appears I may have blown up my door opener button in the garage? Is has an LED that lights up along with the button on it. Neither seems to work now. But I can still open/close the door via the Output 3 on the Elk.
I programmed Output 3 to 'toggle' within ElkRP. Is this the correct setting for how I have it set up?
Does Output 3 put out any considerable 'power', that could potentially fry my door opener button? Like I said, my button is now dead, but I can still use Output3 that is connected to the wires in the button to still open/close the door.
Sorry for all the questions
I have some questions on how to get my detached garage hooked into my Elk. I have come across a few other threads about detached garages and got some ideas.
Right now I have two cat5's running from my Elk M1G out to the garage that I can use. I don't have any expanders or keypad for out in the garage yet.
The last two days I spent a little time trying to get my garage hooked into my Elk panel. I installed a garage overhead door sensor and a sensor for the service (man) door as well. I put EOL resistors near both sensors. I hooked both of those sensors into 4 wires from one of my cat5 wires. I also ran a wire from the back of my garage door opener button that is inside the garage. That's the button that you press to raise and lower the overhead door. I hooked those two wires to another two wires in that same cat5 running to the garage.
So right now I am using one cat5 that goes from the Elk M1G to the detached garage. 6 of the 8 wires in that cat5 are in use. Two for the overhead door, two for the service door and two to control the garage opener.
I hooked the doors in at the Elk M1G and they work as expected. I hooked the opener wires into Output 3 on the M1G, using the N/O connection.
I programmed everything up and I can open/close the garage door via the Elk now, and the doors both report their status correctly.
Here's some questions I have:
Should I set up the detached garage as a separate zone?
I do not have a keypad out in the garage yet. I think I will have to have one so that I will be able to arm/disarm the garage separately?
Issue is, if the wife comes home and parks in the garage, the alarm system inside the house will go off if she doesn't disarm inside the house before the entry delay expires. Can I set a different delay if the garage door is opened or something?
This would seem less secure, I guess I should just get another keypad ASAP?
I have a Sears/Craftsman garage door opener system. it's about 3 years old, 1/2 horsepower, has the two laser safety sensors, and has the garage door button. I connected my two wires that run to the Elk directly to the garage door opener button. I understand that when Output 3 closes, it shorts those wires?
After using Output 3 a few times to raise/lower the door (testing), it appears I may have blown up my door opener button in the garage? Is has an LED that lights up along with the button on it. Neither seems to work now. But I can still open/close the door via the Output 3 on the Elk.
I programmed Output 3 to 'toggle' within ElkRP. Is this the correct setting for how I have it set up?
Does Output 3 put out any considerable 'power', that could potentially fry my door opener button? Like I said, my button is now dead, but I can still use Output3 that is connected to the wires in the button to still open/close the door.
Sorry for all the questions