Help with UPB

[pete_c]

Not for home automation controller applications

 
Here originally the older Homeseer UPB USB Pim had issues.  I haven't tried the HS3 UPB Plugin with the SA USB PIM
 
I also had issues running the PIM via a USB to Network box for a VM. 
 
I did call SA about this issues years ago and they said something about the USB driver for the device and that it would have to be rewritten?
 
The above noted I only utilize the SA USB PIM as my floater to utilize with Upstart. 
 
I have two HAI UPB serial PIMs and one SA Serial PIM which are today connected to controllers (well Homeseer is one of them).
 
I am thinking that the PCS USB PIM is different where as it looks like a serial PIM to the PC using prolific USB to Serial hardware.

 

[mikefamig]

Is an SA US1-40 base with faceplate a good basic dimmer switch? Is the US11-40 the same thing as a US1-40 but with the faceplate included?

 

[Desert_AIP]

I use the SA serial PIM with a USB to RS232 adapter and it works fine.
I have that permananently installed to my desktop computer.
I keep another PIM handy for remote use with a laptop, for monitoring noise and signal strength deuing a mod primarily.
I also use an SA PIM with my Western Mountain RUC.
The Omni PIM is the HAI/Leviton one.

I was using the SA timer as a vacation light controller since it has a random function in it.
It worked well, just enable vacation mode and the links programmed in ran on a schedule, the daily times changed a bit due to the random variable.
I've since ported that duty over to the RUC.

I also have the SA pocket programmer, I picked it up used for $20.
I use it primarily as a PIM for the laptop.

 

[mikefamig]

Here originally the older Homeseer UPB USB Pim had issues.  I haven't tried the HS3 UPB Plugin with the SA USB PIM
 
I also had issues running the PIM via a USB to Network box for a VM. 
 
I did call SA about this issues years ago and they said something about the USB driver for the device and that it would have to be rewritten?
 
The above noted I only utilize the SA USB PIM as my floater to utilize with Upstart. 
 
I have two HAI UPB serial PIMs and one SA Serial PIM which are today connected to controllers (well Homeseer is one of them).
 
I am thinking that the PCS USB PIM is different where as it looks like a serial PIM to the PC using prolific USB to Serial hardware.

 
When you say that  you "have two HAI UPB serial PIMs and one SA Serial PIM which are today connected to controllers"  do you mean that they are connected to security system controllers like my Elk M1G? If not then what type of controller are they attached to?
 
Mike.

 

[pete_c]

Here is the overview of what is connected
 
1 - HAI UPB serial PIM #1 is connected to the Leviton HAI OPII panel
2 - HAI UPB serial PIM #2 is connected to a Quatech box and is utilized for VM's or any PC in the house running Upstart or testing software (IE: Homeseer 3)
3 - SA Serial UPB PIM #1 is connected to Homeseer 2 via a Digi Edgeport / Digi USB hub
4 - SA USB UPB PIM #1 is the floater.  I leave this connected to another server on the server rack these days or use it with my laptop.
 
New SA UPB switches here are all US2-40's and US22-40's.  Older installed SA are single rocker / multiple base switches. 
 

Is the US11-40 the same thing as a US1-40 but with the faceplate included?

 
 
US11-40 versus US1-40

 

[mikefamig]

New SA UPB switches here are all US2-40's and US22-40's.  Older installed SA are single rocker / multiple base switches. 
 
This just keeps getting more complicated. So is the US240 the newer version of the US1-40. I have been shopping at a few different online stores and they use different naming which makes it almost impossible to sort this stuff out!
 
Mike.

 

[Desert_AIP]

The US1-40 and US11-40 are virtually identical in operation, the US1-40 does not have a faceplate, but uses the single rocker.
The US2-40 is different in operation from the 1-40 and 11-40 and the US22-40 is a two channel version of the 2-40.

The primary difference between the 1-40/11-40 and the 2-40/22-40 is local load operation and status reporting.
On the 1-40/11-40 the rocker can be configured to directly operate the load wired to the switch and report status when this occurs.
On the 2-40/22-40 the rocker transmits a link which is received by the switch to operate the load wired to the switch. Even the load directly wired to the swtich. When you press the rocker it transmits the link and receievs the link and takes action, but does not update its status.
The 2-40/22-40 also use the full range of faceplates.
The 22-40 is a two channel (two load) version of the 2-40. It can operate two loads independently and has two LEDs.

The 1-40/11-40 and the 22-40 also have internal timers that can be set to automatically turn the load(s) off after a preset time.
The 2-40 does not.

To address the individual channels of the 22-40 directly you must use extended unit commands. Something like the HAI Omni Pro can not do this.
It can still communicate via links to each channel, but can't turn "Unit ID 12 Channel 1" on or off directly like it can a single channel unit.
A Western Mountain RUC can send those extended commands.

For instance, I have my porch and driveway carriage lights on a US22-40.
When there is a fire or burglary I turn all the lights on, but I want the Driveway Carriage lamps to blink to alert fire/police.
The 22-40 can not blink a channel in response to a link. IIRC the 11-40/1-40 can (need to check UPStart).
So when the Omni Pro sends the All On command link the RUC also sees this and in turn send a channel command to the 22-40 to blink the driveway lights.
I use that as an example of creatively using the technology and different products to produce the desired end result.

I generally try to connect loads to US11-40s (Or 1-40s) because of the direct operation and status reporting and use 2-40s as link transmitters.
I replace the switches in a three way circuit with one 11-40 and one 2-40 and use the 2-40 to transmit several links for various actions or scenes.

 

[mikefamig]

The US1-40 and US11-40 are virtually identical in operation, the US1-40 does not have a faceplate, but uses the single rocker.
The US2-40 is different in operation from the 1-40 and 11-40 and the US22-40 is a two channel version of the 2-40.

The primary difference between the 1-40/11-40 and the 2-40/22-40 is local load operation and status reporting.
On the 1-40/11-40 the rocker can be configured to directly operate the load wired to the switch and report status when this occurs.
On the 2-40/22-40 the rocker transmits a link which is received by the switch to operate the load wired to the switch. Even the load directly wired to the swtich. When you press the rocker it transmits the link and receievs the link and takes action, but does not update its status.
The 2-40/22-40 also use the full range of faceplates.
The 22-40 is a two channel (two load) version of the 2-40. It can operate two loads independently and has two LEDs.

The 1-40/11-40 and the 22-40 also have internal timers that can be set to automatically turn the load(s) off after a preset time.
The 2-40 does not.

To address the individual channels of the 22-40 directly you must use extended unit commands. Something like the HAI Omni Pro can not do this.
It can still communicate via links to each channel, but can't turn "Unit ID 12 Channel 1" on or off directly like it can a single channel unit.
A Western Mountain RUC can send those extended commands.

For instance, I have my porch and driveway carriage lights on a US22-40.
When there is a fire or burglary I turn all the lights on, but I want the Driveway Carriage lamps to blink to alert fire/police.
The 22-40 can not blink a channel in response to a link. IIRC the 11-40/1-40 can (need to check UPStart).
So when the Omni Pro sends the All On command link the RUC also sees this and in turn send a channel command to the 22-40 to blink the driveway lights.
I use that as an example of creatively using the technology and different products to produce the desired end result.

I generally try to connect loads to US11-40s (Or 1-40s) because of the direct operation and status reporting and use 2-40s as link transmitters.
I replace the switches in a three way circuit with one 11-40 and one 2-40 and use the 2-40 to transmit several links for various actions or scenes.

 
I had to read that twice for ir to sink in.
 
So then it seems to me that the 1-40 11-40 is the most versatile switch and just what I'm looking for being that I want to control a single load and would like status sent back to the Elk control. What if any would be the advantage of the 2-40 if it does not report it's status back to the control? And what is the significance of the fact that it sends a link from the faceplate to the switch base as opposed to just operatinng as a mechanical switch when controlling the local load?
 
Mike.

 

[Desert_AIP]

The 2-40 takes all the various faceplates, multi rocker, multi button, rocker and button.
When used in conjunction with the 11-40s it brings a lot of flexibility.

The 11-40 can only transmit a single link from the top rocker and a single link from the bottom rocker, so controlling scenes can be difficult.
It can be configured to operate the local load on a single tap and operate the load and transmit the link with a double tap which is very flexible.

The 2-40 can send a link from each of up to 8 buttons.
And each of those buttons can be configured to toggle the link on/off and brighten/dim it too all from a single button depending on if you single or double press or hold it down.
Since it reponds to links and is a dimmer, you can use the led to track the status of a load that is not actually connected tot eh 2-40 by setting it up its receive links identical to the load you want to track. I do this for the garage lights on a 2-40 in the house so I can see at a glance whether or not I left them on.

For a consistent look and feel, I generally restrict the face plates I use to the single rocker, the double half height rocker, the half height rocker with 4 buttons and the 8 button.
I also place often used links, like the exterior security flood lights, in the same spot on the faceplate so that link is available from multiple locations throughout the house.

I also use the 2-40, without a faceplate, in the place of wired in modules for loads I only want to control remotely, like my security floods.
The 2-40s without faceplates are cheaper than the 11-40 or the wire in modules.
They also have higher load capacity than the wire in modules and over temperature protection the wire in modules don't have.
I just put them in a 4x4 box and wire the output to the floodlight fixtures.

Both the 11-40 and 2-40 have their place.
Understanding the plusses and minuses of each will help choose the right one for the right application.

If you pull up UpStart you can create a virtual network by working off-line and adding devices.
You can then examine all of the options of each device.
This will give you a huge insight into the capability of each device.

 

[pete_c]

@Mike,
 
You will want to play with the newest Upstart from PCS that includes the designer.  Its on the PCS website to download.
 
PCS
 

 
 

 

[mikefamig]

T
If you pull up UpStart you can create a virtual network by working off-line and adding devices.
You can then examine all of the options of each device.
This will give you a huge insight into the capability of each device.

 
I like that! I'll download it and play with it.
 
Mike.