How do you control low voltage lighting with the M1?

[BraveSirRobbin]

I agree Wayne. But you still have the problem of having terminating to an AC source (in this case an outlet). I would not have a problem using one, but I'm curious how this would meet code standards.

 

[WayneW]

I agree Wayne. But you still have the problem of having terminating to an AC source (in this case an outlet). I would not have a problem using one, but I'm curious how this would meet code standards.

I have been led to believe that as long as the low voltage wire insulation is rated high enough, there is not a problem mixing high & low voltage in the same box. Otherwise I fail to see how a RIB could ever meet code? ALL the wires on my RIBs are 600V rated. So, similar to the Brultech ECM-1240 CTs, you just need to run the low voltage wires outside the high voltage box to connect to regular "cheap" low voltage wiring.

The RIBU1C has these approvals: UL Listed, UL916, UL864, C-UL, California State Fire Marshal, CE. I don't know what that all exactly means, but it sure doesn't look like a hacked solution.

So, in a scenario of controlling an outlet box, assuming it has knockouts/conduit holes available, I would add the RIB to the outside of the outlet box. Connect the high voltage (output) side of the RIB in series with the outlet. Take the low voltage (control/coil) wires and run them out a second hole on the outlet box (properly clamped, grotted, etc) and wirenut to wires running back to the Elk. Of course, if the outlet box is inside an existing wall, it gets more challenging to mount the RIB it it should probably be done with a new box someplace along the high voltage feed.