HVAC Efficiency/energy monitoring

jlegault: thanks for the reply. I already talked to my low voltage guy earlier today (he's installing right now) and had him add a CAT5 run to the breaker box. I'm just trying to figure out the cleanest way to install the current sensor. It would be ideal if I could hide it in a wall box but I'm not sure how big it is.

Also I presume that the main feed going to the breaker box needs to go *through* this current sensor. Is that correct? If so how are you going to be able to install this in a retrofit situation? I will call the company on Monday but any advice from others who already have one of these installed is always appreciated.

-- Dave
 
The TED unit uses the house wiring to transmit its data signal, so all you need do is plug the display unit into an available AC outlet. Like the Brand unit, the TED uses clamp on current transformers to monitor the AC loads. See my previous post for possible X-10, Insteon interference, since it also uses the powerline for signaling.
 
That's why I really want the OneMeter instead. I will have an extensive UPB installation and I want to keep the powerlines clean and "unbusy".
 
Dave, my situation is probably a little different than most retrofits. I already have a spare cat 5 running to a spot near the main outside breaker box (phone connection is next to it). There is lots of room in there once you get the front panel off.
 
Nice install, I'm doing this as well from a home-grown setup. Your graphics look like they're from Chartdirector, are they?

One note of caution to people duplicating this setup: It is a code violation to make multiple attachments to circuit breakers in the panel; each circuit should be on its own breaker. In the photos shown, if there is a short in the voltage-sense wires; they will most likely melt and catch the nearest flammable object on fire (probably the pvc pipe) and will never trip the double 30Amp breaker to which they're connected. Is better to spend another $10-$15 on a double 15Amp breaker and install it in an unused space and connect the voltage-sense wires directly to it. Also, technically it is a violation to have the low voltage wire in there for the CTs as well, there is inherently less danger in those however as long as they're isolated from the high-voltage circuits. If you have above-ground wiring you can attach the CTs outside at the top of you house near the service entrance, under-ground installations are more tricky however – especially if it’s a retrofit application - so your left with few options other than putting the CTs in the breaker panel.

DISCLAMER:
The best move is to have a licensed electrician do it. That way you avoid any danger to yourself, or your home. Also, if there is a problem; you don't have to worry about your insurance not covering the damage due to unlicensed electrical work.

Not trying to downplay your efforts, it really is a great install. Just trying to keep everyone from letting the smoke out. :)

Terry
 
Terry, I added a summary of your note to the blog page and I will have an electrician come out to bring things up to code. Thanks, that was great free advice :)

jacy
 
No problem, glad you found it useful. I would love to know more about your overall setup if you don't mind sharing. You had mentioned earlier that you were using bwired's site as a model for yours and I was wondering what else you might be doing. Are you using a commercial HA package or something you’ve done yourself? Bwired's site is definitely the high-water mark for me and I hope to emulate what he has as much as possible although a deviation for me will be the use of Linux and Python/C++ rather than Windows/VB.

To stay on topic, I'm using a combination of home-wound CTs, and A/D converters using ideas from Ed Cheung's site and a unique non-invasive laser-based system from Sean Adams' page. Together they work very well and give me a good picture of my home's electrical usage. I haven't done anything with the data yet, other than store it in a MYSQL db, that's why I was looking at Chartdirector. I'm looking into monitoring the water usage next with a sensitive hall-effect sensor mounted on the water meter.

Edit: A few mis-directed questions above, the interface/bwired references were mostly aimed at tgraham, although I welcome anyone's answer... :) sorry for the confusion.

Terry
 
Having info that has been logged, is there a way to know if your system needs a tune up or upgrade? I have a good base of data now: run time and inside/outside temps.
 
Back
Top