looking for GE / Elk wireless outdoor PIR

As the wired BX-80N had a box behind it I decided to dismantle the BX-80NR and remove the controlling circuitry from its housing and transplant it into the BX-80N's housing.
 
Why on earth?
 
the BX-80NR's housing is quite a bit larger than its wired sibling. This is to contain whatever transmitter and associated power you put in there, and protect same from the weather.
 
This housing sticks out a couple-three inches from the surface of the house, and then you have the couple-three inches of the lensing mechanism.
 
The design has two main parts. An upper board containing emitters and sensors and a lower board. A 4 conductor wire connects the two components. The imaging system as two sides, a left and a right. These are split into an upper and lower detector. The mirrors which do this are sandwiched in between the upper emitter and the lower contact and power board.
 
unscrewing 3 screws releases the upper board from the lower. You can then carefully remove the mirrors and take a look at the bottom board. This is held in place by small flanges inside the case - essentially it's just press-fit into the housing.
 
It's in place and on the deck's wall.
 
Thanks folks for all your help! I have some pics in some camera, I'll put `em up if the forum software lets me.
Onward!
 
signal15 said:
Outdoor PIR's are expensive.  At my last house, I just took 2 Bosch Blueline PIR/Microwave sensors, and a wireless GE sensor and put them outside.  Before I did so, I took them apart and sealed up any lenses with a thin coat of clear silicone.  After it was reassembled and screwed to the wall, I wrapped the seam with some clear 3M weatherproof tape I found for like $4 at the hardware store.  
 
All 3 sensors worked for 5+ years until I moved out.  I assume they are still working.
 
To be fair, 2 of them were under the eave of the house.  But one was exposed to rain/weather and still didn't have issues.
 
Whoops, forgot to mention that I threw a silica gel pack in each one before closing it up.
How do you power the blue lines? Do you solder leads to them and simply use a 9v battery?
 
signal15 said:
Outdoor PIR's are expensive.  At my last house, I just took 2 Bosch Blueline PIR/Microwave sensors, and a wireless GE sensor and put them outside.  Before I did so, I took them apart and sealed up any lenses with a thin coat of clear silicone.  After it was reassembled and screwed to the wall, I wrapped the seam with some clear 3M weatherproof tape I found for like $4 at the hardware store.  
 
All 3 sensors worked for 5+ years until I moved out.  I assume they are still working.
 
To be fair, 2 of them were under the eave of the house.  But one was exposed to rain/weather and still didn't have issues.
 
Whoops, forgot to mention that I threw a silica gel pack in each one before closing it up.

Signal, Which blueline sensor did you use at that time?
 
Anthony A. said:
How do you power the blue lines? Do you solder leads to them and simply use a 9v battery?
 
 
I ran a wire to them and connected them to my panel.  
 
But, I did have an indoor GE wireless sensor that I did the same thing to, and then put it outside.  It was out there and working until I moved.  Never replaced the battery either.  It was out there for 3-4 years.
 
While others may say this is a good idea, unless the unit has a heater in it or is rated for the observed temperature swings, you're going to experience trouble.
 
In regards to dessicant packs....they're only good for 1 year. I have upwards of 200 of them to replace on an annual basis in one site's PTZ cameras....and those have heaters/fans and are rated for IP66/67. The specs are so detailed that they even specify replacement if the dome is left open for a period of time longer than an hour to the outside air.
 
so other than optex (which are huge units), what other options for outdoor wireless motions that can be used wireless?  
 
I think Bosch and Risco make some but work only with their own systems (not like optex you can use any transmitter that your system is using). But I'm not expert so maybe an expert can give more info about this.
 
You're comparing two different items.
 
Optex units are PE beams, different beast and functionality.
 
The majority of "real" units out there are not going to be RF.
 
Visonic makes a unit, but you've really named the players.
 
Anthony A. said:
so other than optex (which are huge units), what other options for outdoor wireless motions that can be used wireless?  
 
The wireless outdoor Optex units can be disassembled and mounted into smaller form factors. Well, at least the form factor of their wire brethren.
 
Not sure where you get that....the PIR units aren't truly interchangeable and the PE beams have the battery chamber which is designed for the specific battery pack or addition of a second battery pack, in addition to a transmitter...it's not like the unit is outrageous when you consider what has to go inside and maintain the IP rating. 
 
 If you want wireless, it is what it is. If you want slim and a selection of devices, it's wire time.
 
I get that by voiding the warranty and disassembling the unit. Much of it is held together by fitted moldings.
Then I put it into a smaller form factor. That being the housing of a wired version.
I wouldn't suggest this for everyone. Worked for me tho, hanging on the lower decks of this house.
The main constraint is height of the component which holds the mirrors in place.
 
now I would rather of been able to use the wires I had run there!
 
i ended up buying an optex 402r to test out with a ge nx 650 wireless transmitter.  i synced the ge transmitter multiple times to the HAI/GE receiver but for some reason, i cant seem to get the ge nx650 (set to external contact mode) to get out of unsecure mode.  i pulled out the manual and it says that external mode needs a 4.7k ohm resistor.  so i found one from my HAI bag of goodies and installed it.  the loop value from pc access shows 8 or 9 constantly but when i activate the motion it goes to 1.  i have the optex motion set to N.C. and i tried the resistor in bot the NC and C terminals all with the same result.  what am i doing wrong?
 
ps.  the resistor color is brown, black, red, gold which i believe should be 4.7 k ohm, correct?
 
No
 
Anthony A. said:
ps.  the resistor color is brown, black, red, gold which i believe should be 4.7 k ohm, correct?
 
no!  That's a 1K resistor.   4.7K would be Yellow, Violet, Red
 
color-code.jpg
 
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