Check and make sure they still take less than 4W when you dim them. Some bulbs, when dimmed will take WAY more power than what they are rated for. No idea what makes them do that, but they can overheat and/or catch fire.
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Check and make sure they still take less than 4W when you dim them. Some bulbs, when dimmed will take WAY more power than what they are rated for. No idea what makes them do that, but they can overheat and/or catch fire.
New Home Depot/Ecosmart LED Bulb in the pipeline
A19 60 Watt Equivalent
Dimmer Compatibility
At $30 it's still a bit rich for my taste, but we're narrowing the gap.
A19 60 Watt Equivalent
Dimmer Compatibility
At $30 it's still a bit rich for my taste, but we're narrowing the gap.
It's about time...
apostolakisl
Senior Member
That is an odd looking shape. Kind of hard to tell what it actually looks like as the photograph is blown out from the light being on. Look forward to seeing it on the shelf and hopefully in a sample light fixture.
I wish my local HD would sell the CR6 for $20. I would replace every one in my house at that price.
Picked up one of the Sylvania A19 Bulbs yesterday at my Local Lowes for $19.95 (reduced from $30.00). So far so good and (fingers crossed) is working OK with my older Intermatic Z-Wave dimmer module. I tried a dimmable CCFL bulb with one of the Intermatics quite some time ago, and the "magic smoke" came out at about 4 hours...
I think the odd shape is so the light will shine towards the base. The A19 replacements I have now do not emit much light backwards because the heatsink blocks most of it.
Monk
Active Member
The Dimmer (the Triac failed), the lamp lived. After a few days now the Intermatic Z-Wave dimmer and Sylvania UlTRA LED A19 at least so far, seem to be doing well.
Yep, it was one of the HA07s (no ground), but given the low current I had no clear idea of how it would work, well until four hours later.
With the Sylvania though, the HA07 runs cool. The bulb heatsink fins just run slight warm to the touch. If I get a chance I'll use an IR thermometer to get a stabilized heatsink temp at say 50% dimming and at 100%. I'll throw in a power input at both settings too.
Monk
Active Member
Yep, it was one of the HA07s (no ground), but given the low current I had no clear idea of how it would work, well until four hours later.
With the Sylvania though, the HA07 runs cool. The bulb heatsink fins just run slight warm to the touch. If I get a chance I'll use an IR thermometer to get a stabilized heatsink temp at say 50% dimming and at 100%. I'll throw in a power input at both settings too.
Nice - I'll be looking forward to those temp / power readings.
Cross posting from HS:
I found one of these A19 LED bulbs at The Home Depot in East Hanover, NJ for $18 and decided to give it a try on various Intermatic Z-Wave switches.
It switches on and off satisfactorily using the HA02 appliance module.
It switches on and off satisfactorily using the HA18 in-wall light switch (unlike a CFL which flickers on and off when it should be off). It was tested as the single load in a 3-way circuit.
It dims satisfactorily using the HA03 lamp module.
It does NOT dim correctly when using a HA14 in-wall light dimmer switch if it is the only load in the circuit (the HA14 does state that a minimum of 40 watts is required). With the HA14 'off', the LED bulb was full on. When a 30 watt miniature flood was added to the load, the LED did dim correctly. The LED is listed at 9 watts, so 3-4 LED bulbs in the circuit should meet the requirement but I did not test this.
The physical design of this bulb makes it suitable for ceiling cans. It would seem that non dimmed cans using an HA18 would be the best use of this particular bulb. YMMV.
Mark
I found one of these A19 LED bulbs at The Home Depot in East Hanover, NJ for $18 and decided to give it a try on various Intermatic Z-Wave switches.
It switches on and off satisfactorily using the HA02 appliance module.
It switches on and off satisfactorily using the HA18 in-wall light switch (unlike a CFL which flickers on and off when it should be off). It was tested as the single load in a 3-way circuit.
It dims satisfactorily using the HA03 lamp module.
It does NOT dim correctly when using a HA14 in-wall light dimmer switch if it is the only load in the circuit (the HA14 does state that a minimum of 40 watts is required). With the HA14 'off', the LED bulb was full on. When a 30 watt miniature flood was added to the load, the LED did dim correctly. The LED is listed at 9 watts, so 3-4 LED bulbs in the circuit should meet the requirement but I did not test this.
The physical design of this bulb makes it suitable for ceiling cans. It would seem that non dimmed cans using an HA18 would be the best use of this particular bulb. YMMV.
Mark
Did a check on stabilized temps near the base of the bulb heatsink (warmer there) and got at stabilized temp in 68 deg ambient of approx. 111 deg F at approx. 50% dimming and about 150 Deg. F at 100%. I'll get a power reading when I manage to get my Brand Electronics Powermeter disentangled from another project
Did a check on stabilized temps near the base of the bulb heatsink (warmer there) and got at stabilized temp in 68 deg ambient of approx. 111 deg F at approx. 50% dimming and about 150 Deg. F at 100%. I'll get a power reading when I manage to get my Brand Electronics Powermeter disentangled from another project
Freed up my power meter and (at full on) reads 5.9 watts at 120v. Power Factor is .72, and projected operating cost (@ 10 cents per KWH) is $.42.
The 60 watt halogen it is replacing (the Sylvania isn't quite the brightness of the 60 watt, but I'd give it a 40-50 watt. in apparent brightness) measured at 55w (120v), Power Factor of .99 with an operating expense of $3.93/Mo.
