Great stuff guys! Yes, the biggest goal initially is the lighting system. I have a pro giving me a quote today on lutron but I suspect it will be expensive. Could you all give me some specific choices for switches/touch panels, relays, etc. that I could diy to get the lighting running please? Smart bulbs seem like an option but due to the huge number of can lights in each room, I'm concerned with how well they will interface with each other, reliability, and cost. I have no experience with smart bulbs so maybe my concerns are unfounded. And again, where the switches/touch panels are located, it is stubbed out with cat5 and lutron wire only. Thanks again for any specific choices!! I really appreciate all of your imput and suggestions!
Need help/recommendations for wired HA system controller and components
- Thread starter Jeremian
- Start date
If you get a few of these:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-45612-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8
and these:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-45600-Z-Wave-Handheld-Remote/dp/B0013V6RW0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8
you should be able to control your lights temporarily. I would really look into a wired solution for permanent use, as you already got all the wiring in place.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-45612-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8
and these:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-45600-Z-Wave-Handheld-Remote/dp/B0013V6RW0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8
you should be able to control your lights temporarily. I would really look into a wired solution for permanent use, as you already got all the wiring in place.
Smart bulbs was just a wild suggestion, not very practical.
Your existing wiring and wall boxes may not support class 1 signaling otherwise you could use insteon din rail modules with standard switches.
Are they mostly single gang or multi-gang wall boxes? What's the situation in your main wiring location? Bare studs? Finished walls? Photos? How many circuits? Dimming? LED loads?
Your existing wiring and wall boxes may not support class 1 signaling otherwise you could use insteon din rail modules with standard switches.
Are they mostly single gang or multi-gang wall boxes? What's the situation in your main wiring location? Bare studs? Finished walls? Photos? How many circuits? Dimming? LED loads?
They are single gang boxes with A green Lutron wire and a cat5. The control panel area is bare studs right now but everything else in the house is drywalled. This stud area is where the temp switches(24 I think) are located. There are also some Romex switch legs that are not terminated yet for fans etc. that are not on place yet or are not necessary. All together we counted 43 switch legs that go back to this control panel. There is no Romex in the switch locations in the room so the switches need to either run off the single Lutron or the single cat5. Or else they could be wireless assuming the range is but an issue. Downstairs is about 2700 sq ft. Maybe that's not an issue for wireless. I am planning on using led bulbs if I can afford it and would like them to be dimmable. Currently they are all incandescent. Please help!! 
Oh, if you want to shoot me an email at [email protected] I will send you pics of whatever you need to see. Thanks
So I think some of the posters are not realizing the impact of the details. He does not have in room switches wired in to the associated circuits. This is a centralized system meaning the in room switches are just LV controllers for the master system at the home run location.
That limits your possibilities to centralized lighting systems or "hacking" together a system. In this case, I would recommend sticking to the original plan since the wiring is laid out for it. Even better, if you can find out who the electrician or company was that installed/built the house you could probably locate the original plans.
I recommend a HA/security controller because it provides some linked in control of Lutron in conjunction with the security features of the panel as well as interfaces and/or use of HAiku or similar on touchscreen devices.
I recommended HAI since I thought Elk does not support Lutron.
The HAI will provide security and at least basic home automation as soon as its connected. This gives you time to research and provide an overall HA system (CQC, Homeseer, etc) while your lighting and security are now functioning.
For those suggesting other solutions, please remember he has NO control of lights without going to the centralized location! i.e. the house is not functional! So patching or forcing a system in combination with a centralized wiring layout is asking for issues. If you have any WAF requirements then definitely stick to just getting someone to finish the lighting for you with the system it was designed for, Lutron.
Just my 0.02. This is a scenario where the extra expense is justified due to the system being designed for it and the timing. Otherwise plan on spending quite a lot of effort and time before you have your lighting at 100% functional.
That limits your possibilities to centralized lighting systems or "hacking" together a system. In this case, I would recommend sticking to the original plan since the wiring is laid out for it. Even better, if you can find out who the electrician or company was that installed/built the house you could probably locate the original plans.
I recommend a HA/security controller because it provides some linked in control of Lutron in conjunction with the security features of the panel as well as interfaces and/or use of HAiku or similar on touchscreen devices.
I recommended HAI since I thought Elk does not support Lutron.
The HAI will provide security and at least basic home automation as soon as its connected. This gives you time to research and provide an overall HA system (CQC, Homeseer, etc) while your lighting and security are now functioning.
For those suggesting other solutions, please remember he has NO control of lights without going to the centralized location! i.e. the house is not functional! So patching or forcing a system in combination with a centralized wiring layout is asking for issues. If you have any WAF requirements then definitely stick to just getting someone to finish the lighting for you with the system it was designed for, Lutron.
Just my 0.02. This is a scenario where the extra expense is justified due to the system being designed for it and the timing. Otherwise plan on spending quite a lot of effort and time before you have your lighting at 100% functional.
pete_c
Guru
BTW welcome to the forum Jeremian. You came to the right place to ask your questions.
The documented stuff here and forum users are a gold mine of information for your specific needs.
If you decide to DIY this endeavor consider the support you will get from the users on CT relating to what you want to do.
The above noted; you should be able to find a set of plans with the local provider of building permits. I have done this and the fee requested for the copy was minimal and well worth it.
You will most likely need to stick to the original plans unless you want to spend XX amount of monies to redo the electric for you home which will be very difficult and expensive to do right now being that the walls are up.
Yup; and if you don't really want to get that involved in doing a DIY then I would look to hire a Lutron subcontracted installer.
Personally if you have not agreed yet on a purchase price of the house I would include a retrofit update of regular electric and subtract that from the selling price of the house such that you utilize that monies saved for either the retrofit or the Lutron installation.
A guesstimate for a post electrical wiring would be an expensive endeavor to add new HV switches / conduit et al plus the cost any drywall work et al.
I am currently utilizing a Leviton HAI OPII panel (2). That said I have integrated audio and CCTV stuff on the OPII and it works well.
The wiring sounds like it would support any centralized/homerun lighting system with class 2 controls. So there should be several options (ALC, Savant, Lutron, Centralite). Unfortunately the number of class 2 wall controls is limited in function and appeal. Depending on how many buttons you need, there may only be a few choices.
But depending on how resourceful you are you could roll your own class 2 controls and connect them to an embedded I/O device such as beaglebone black or something else that has a huge number of I/Os and then write some scripts to send commands to the wallbox controls using a serial or network interface. Just about every automated lighting control system has a serial or network interface.
If you are looking to just get a few controls in place for the short term you could also grab some of the lutron caseta kits that come with pico remotes.
Really what it comes down to is budget and your ability to DIY.
But depending on how resourceful you are you could roll your own class 2 controls and connect them to an embedded I/O device such as beaglebone black or something else that has a huge number of I/Os and then write some scripts to send commands to the wallbox controls using a serial or network interface. Just about every automated lighting control system has a serial or network interface.
If you are looking to just get a few controls in place for the short term you could also grab some of the lutron caseta kits that come with pico remotes.
Really what it comes down to is budget and your ability to DIY.
I've seen metal "alarm" enclosure cabinets that had a plate inside that had a ton of Decora cutouts in it. Does anyone know who makes this? I've seen it used in houses that were wired for centralized lighting, and the homeowner used cheaper automated switches instead of installing the whole centralized system.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Is Insteon still making their DIN-Rail products? Possibly a cheaper alternative?
You mean these: http://www.jascoproducts.com/z-wave/Z-Wave-Products.asp?#3 Note that there is some bug with them and networks with more than 32 devices. Also it does not repeat z-wave signals because it is battery powered so you will have to find other devices to extend your mesh. I am not sure if it is able to report low battery levels either.
How many dimmers are you going to use? Thermal considerations for adequate spacing and ventilation?
@signal15 - sounds interesting but a metal enclosure would not be good for wireless products. UPB would be ok.
How many dimmers are you going to use? Thermal considerations for adequate spacing and ventilation?
@signal15 - sounds interesting but a metal enclosure would not be good for wireless products. UPB would be ok.