OmniLinkBridge to integrate Home Assistant, SmartThings, Node-RED
- Thread starter rsw686
- Start date
pete_c said:
For the humidifier control I'm currently using the OmniStat2 as it has current humidity and a setpoint. I also have 2 of the NodeMCU boards with DHT22 sensors running Esphome. These are currently in my garage and shop. I just looked at the Sonoff TH16 and it appears to be almost the same components. Neither of these last two solutions are all that elegant to mount on the wall in the house.
pete_c
Guru
Thank you Ryan.
Yeah here just hardware modded the garage door SonOff basics (GPIO et al) with the soldering iron.
I glued tiny terminals to the case here. Not pretty at all.
Only thing is that it is wireless (sensors are wired) versus the OmniPro panel wired stuff.
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1271]
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1272]
The GDO is the only Tasmota firmware SonOff here. Rest are Espurna.
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1273]
Yeah here just hardware modded the garage door SonOff basics (GPIO et al) with the soldering iron.
I glued tiny terminals to the case here. Not pretty at all.
Only thing is that it is wireless (sensors are wired) versus the OmniPro panel wired stuff.
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1271]
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1272]
The GDO is the only Tasmota firmware SonOff here. Rest are Espurna.
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1273]
grantlewis
Active Member
Really glad to see this new version, Ryan! Thank you and congrats.
I'm still learning my way around Docker, so if someone could let me know: To install this new version, do I just repeat the same Docker Hub (preferred) steps as I did last time?
I'm still learning my way around Docker, so if someone could let me know: To install this new version, do I just repeat the same Docker Hub (preferred) steps as I did last time?
grantlewis said:
Docker caches images for containers it downloads. Easiest method would be to specify the version you want to run. Notice the 1.1.4 at the end of the run command.
Code:
docker stop omnilink-bridge
docker rm omnilink-bridge
docker run -d --name="omnilink-bridge" -v /opt/omnilink-bridge:/config -v /etc/localtime:/etc/localtime:ro --net=host --restart always excaliburpartners/omnilink-bridge:1.1.4pete_c said:
I'm torn on the wired vs wireless. Having wired sensors direct to the OmniPro with it controlling the logic allows for the most reliable system. My water sensor and well pump shutoff are all hardwired.
The Espurna firmware does have two nice features for helping with this being a distributed system where multiple components need to be operating correctly. It allows you to set a default state for booting and decide what happens on loss of connection to the MQTT broker. One caveat on this is the 1.13.5 firmware has an issue where the dropdown won't show this change for MQTT disconnect and a future save will override it. I'm using the 1.14.0 20191110 nightly build, which has this resolved.
What started this was the Aprilaire humidstat died. I didn't want to spend $100 on another since the reviews are mixed. Additionally the wiring was overly complicated since I have a heat pump and it triggers on the Y compressor contact. I had an additional relay (heat and cool is both signal by the Y contact) on the reversing valve O contact to prevent it from running in the summer. With Node-RED I can easily see when the unit is actually heating and make a logic decision. My goal was to limit the number of failure scenarios where the humidifier could get stuck on. It appears now the only time this could happen is if Node-RED crashes when the humidifier is on. This could be mitigated almost entirely by modifying the Espurna firmware or using a PLC instead of the Sonoff device to give me a bit more logic control at the relay side of things.
grantlewis
Active Member
Oh, that all technology problems were as easy to fix as this. Thank you!rsw686 said:
pete_c
Guru
Ahh.....here switched / upgraded my whole house humidifier from the older manual style where it used the externally connected vent and switching the vent manually to a newer style with no external vent rather a powered fan. Only have to change the filter. The humid stat that came with it is attached to the nearby duct.
If you are in to soldering some here using a custom Espurna firmware for magic home controllers (tiny things). The add was to the RGB Espurna firmware for connection of a manual digital on off dimmer pot which is high on the WAF.
I also put the 120VAC to 12VDC micro transformer inside of the 4 X 4 metal box with switches over it. Its a bit tight but you do not see the low voltage transformer.
I put the combo magic home controller and pot in a small plastic box mounted under the kitchen counter. I did build my LED strips for under the counters. I installed them in very slim aluminum brackets with diffusers and mounted them on the outer lip of the underside of the counters.
The set up is plug in play where you can utilize the wall switch for powering up the LED lamps or just plug in the magic home controller right there for remote and dimming via MQTT. If you power it off at the switch it remembers the last dim level.
So here did the under the kitchen cabinet LED lamps and the over the cabinet in direct lighting this way.
If you are in to soldering some here using a custom Espurna firmware for magic home controllers (tiny things). The add was to the RGB Espurna firmware for connection of a manual digital on off dimmer pot which is high on the WAF.
I also put the 120VAC to 12VDC micro transformer inside of the 4 X 4 metal box with switches over it. Its a bit tight but you do not see the low voltage transformer.
I put the combo magic home controller and pot in a small plastic box mounted under the kitchen counter. I did build my LED strips for under the counters. I installed them in very slim aluminum brackets with diffusers and mounted them on the outer lip of the underside of the counters.
The set up is plug in play where you can utilize the wall switch for powering up the LED lamps or just plug in the magic home controller right there for remote and dimming via MQTT. If you power it off at the switch it remembers the last dim level.
So here did the under the kitchen cabinet LED lamps and the over the cabinet in direct lighting this way.
pete_c said:
The one I have sounds similar to yours. It's the Aprilaire 700 with powered fan and only requires the yearly water panel replacement. The issue was the model 60 automatic humidstat went bad after 2 years. They won't warranty to owners directly and paying an HVAC company to come out to do the claim just wasn't worth it. I'm turned off from the company now as they aren't DIY friendly. Sad thing is I also bought an Aprilaire 1830 whole house dehumidifer before I found that out.
pete_c
Guru
Do you have any pictures of the box with transformer and controller installed?
I posted a thread on the Homeseer site when I did this little project. (or when I started). It was posted under the mcsMQTT section...looking...
It is a long post cuz I changed what I was doing...
Under kitchen cabinet LED lamps with mcsMQTT control
Basically three steps:
1 - custom made LED strips using aluminum rails with diffusers - cut to size - LED strips used only solder and not cheap junky clips. It was a bit time consuming and I think that this turned a few folks off to the project.
2 - find a tiny DC power supply that would fit inside of the metal wall switch boxes and install it. Tight fit but very functional.
3 - customizing a magic home controller with Espurna firmware and a digital on off dimmer pot.
A quickie summary picture.
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1274]
Looking for more pictures...
I posted a thread on the Homeseer site when I did this little project. (or when I started). It was posted under the mcsMQTT section...looking...
It is a long post cuz I changed what I was doing...
Under kitchen cabinet LED lamps with mcsMQTT control
Basically three steps:
1 - custom made LED strips using aluminum rails with diffusers - cut to size - LED strips used only solder and not cheap junky clips. It was a bit time consuming and I think that this turned a few folks off to the project.
2 - find a tiny DC power supply that would fit inside of the metal wall switch boxes and install it. Tight fit but very functional.
3 - customizing a magic home controller with Espurna firmware and a digital on off dimmer pot.
A quickie summary picture.
[sharedmedia=gallery:images:1274]
Looking for more pictures...
pete_c said:
Funny you should mention that as I've also noticed the firmware is hit or miss. I might go back to 1.13.3 which I've been using for the last year and was rock solid. I had recently upgraded to 1.13.5, which had the "On MQTT disconnect" setting revert issue and it also wasn't publishing the Home Assistant auto configure for total energy used. I'm currently testing 1.14.0-dev 20191110, which was both of these issues fixed. It also added publishing to Home Assistant the reactive power.
pete_c
Guru
Updated the firmware today on my two 1-Wire hubs to:
ESPURNA 1.14.0-dev
2019-11-23 08:01:48
The magic home LED controllers are using Espurna firmware but modded for the digital on/off dimmer pot.
Two firmware versions were modded. One for the digital pot and the other to utilize the remote control.
The in box power supply is tiny but not UL approved. There are new ones that are UL approved and some are built in to the wall switch. These are both over or around $100 each. The trick here is to fit the PS in the back of a metal 4 X 4 box with a single duplex metal mudplate over it and short depth switches.
I am using three of these now. Two for under cabinet lighting and one for one test over cabinet lighting.
ESPURNA 1.14.0-dev
2019-11-23 08:01:48
The magic home LED controllers are using Espurna firmware but modded for the digital on/off dimmer pot.
Two firmware versions were modded. One for the digital pot and the other to utilize the remote control.
The in box power supply is tiny but not UL approved. There are new ones that are UL approved and some are built in to the wall switch. These are both over or around $100 each. The trick here is to fit the PS in the back of a metal 4 X 4 box with a single duplex metal mudplate over it and short depth switches.
I am using three of these now. Two for under cabinet lighting and one for one test over cabinet lighting.
grantlewis
Active Member
@rsw686 question re. version 1.1.5 of OmniLinkBridge and mono. Recently Portainer suddenly went MIA on my system, and I believe it happened with the upgrade to OmniLinkBridge 1.1.5. Attempting to redeploy I got 'Error response from daemon: driver failed programming external connectivity'. Doing a little sleuthing, I found that mono is listening on Portainer's customary Port 8000:
sudo netstat -pantu
results in
tcp 0 0 0.0.0.0:8000 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN 1349/mono
and
ps -ef | grep mono
shows
root 1349 1325 0 Dec15 ? 00:02:06 mono OmniLinkBridge.exe -i -c /config/OmniLinkBridge.ini -s /config/WebSubscriptions.json
I haven't tried killing mono for fear that it would adversely affect OmniLinkBridge. And I don't know enough about Portainer to see if I can get it to use a port other than 8000.
So... I'm wondering if there might be a solution that would allow OmniLinkBridge to run happily alongside Portainer. Thoughts?
sudo netstat -pantu
results in
tcp 0 0 0.0.0.0:8000 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN 1349/mono
and
ps -ef | grep mono
shows
root 1349 1325 0 Dec15 ? 00:02:06 mono OmniLinkBridge.exe -i -c /config/OmniLinkBridge.ini -s /config/WebSubscriptions.json
I haven't tried killing mono for fear that it would adversely affect OmniLinkBridge. And I don't know enough about Portainer to see if I can get it to use a port other than 8000.
So... I'm wondering if there might be a solution that would allow OmniLinkBridge to run happily alongside Portainer. Thoughts?
