Please check this list I am getting for the Elk/isy994i/insteon system for my home
- Thread starter Pcarfan
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Pcarfan said:
The M1 board has screw terminals that you can just connect the wires to. No need to use the dolphin connectors there. As you stated, you use the dolphin connectors anywhere you need to connect two wires together. The dolphin connectors have lots of little teeth in them. You simply slide them over a pair of #18 - #24 gauge wires without having to strip the insulation, and crimp them. The teeth punch through the insulation on the wire and make the connection. That said, many people prefer to strip the insulation anyway. And you should remove the insulation on wire gauges heavier than #18.
Pcarfan said:
Using Cat6 wire for the keypad is a good idea if you plan to have multiple data bus devices and want to home run all the cables. Data bus devices must be wired in a serial fashion, so the extra wires provide for the return path back to the M1 board. Using a Data Bus Hub (M1DBH) with the home run cables makes things much easier. You could skip buying a hub and connect the home run cables without a hub by just using some of those dolphin connectors to connect all the cable-to-cable wires. The hub just makes everything cleaner and easier to change around if you ever expand your system. Take a look at the M1DBH hub instructions for how things get wired with a Catx cable using home runs.
The keypads don't have a speaker in them, but you can remove the speaker from a SP12F flush mount speaker and then flush mount the M1KP2 using a M1BBK2 back box and place the speaker in the rear of the back box. With the other keypad models, you'll need to mount a speaker somewhere nearby.
Thank you. the dolphin connectors and grommels makes complete sense now.RAL said:
With the keypad, I only have the one CAT 6 cable run to the locations. No other wires. Could I still use a SP12F speaker? if so how do I wire it. Can I use two of the 8 wires in a CAT6 cable for the speaker? (I think the keypads only need four wires). Keep in kind, I've already bought the Databus hub. So the other end will have to be plugged into the hub With a RJ45. Will the RJ45 work with 2 wires missing in it, when connected to the databus?
Pcarfan said:
Yes, you could take the two unused wires in the Cat6 cable out of the RJ45 connector on the data hub end and use them for the speaker connection. It's a little less than elegant in my opinion, but it should work. My preference would be to pull a separate cable up to the keypad for connection to the speaker. But if there really is no way to do that, then it looks like the Cat6 spare pair is your only solution.
Thanks!RAL said:
I would have to take the same two wires from the keypad end and attach it to the speaker too, right?
Another option is, I have four CAT 6 cables behind the TV. I could use one of those for the speaker and hide the speaker behind the TV. Then I should still hear it. In fact I have 4 CAT6 cables behind every TV. So, I could do the same in the great room and basement as well.
Pcarfan said:
Yes. The spare wires are the Blue/White and White/Blue pair and you would use those for the speaker.
Although it's often nice to have the speaker right near the keypad, you can put it anywhere that's convenient and would allow you to hear the M1's responses while using the keypad.
Pcarfan said:
Depending on what target device you want to drive with an output, the M1XOVR by itself may or may not be the solution. The outputs of this board put out 12V at 50mA, which is right for some things, but not others.
If you need to drive something that requires a different voltage, or more current than the M1XOVR can deliver, then you can use something like the ELK 912, 912B or 924 relays. You would use an output from the M1 board or from the M1XOVR to trigger the relay, and the relay contacts would provide power to the target device. Of course, you'll need an appropriate power supply for the target device to connect through the output contacts of the relay.
sda
Active Member
As stated above, you can put a speaker behind the KP2 keypad If you use a the M1BBK2 back box. Although the speaker is supposed to fit (there's a cutout for it), I ended up having to do some surgery on the back box and find the appropriate screws (#4 I think they were). It sounds "OK" for alarm announcements. I used the blue pair for keypad speakers.
The keypads, the KP2 at least, come with a pigtail. You have to splice the cable from the ELK to the pigtail. Leave yourself enough slack in the feed cable so you can pull it out of the wall a foot or so for connection and service.
For relays, an ELKM1RB connects to the main board and allows you to use Out9 through Out15 as relays, but you have to mount it in the main can, not remotely. Considerably less expensive than an XOVR board.
I personally wouldn't use Cat cables for contacts. Aside from the fact that the Cat wires are smaller gauge and somewhat harder to work with, you're just going to end up wrapping the unused wires around the cable or clipping them off. Your can will be cluttered enough as it is without a bunch of excess cable bulk in there.
The keypads, the KP2 at least, come with a pigtail. You have to splice the cable from the ELK to the pigtail. Leave yourself enough slack in the feed cable so you can pull it out of the wall a foot or so for connection and service.
For relays, an ELKM1RB connects to the main board and allows you to use Out9 through Out15 as relays, but you have to mount it in the main can, not remotely. Considerably less expensive than an XOVR board.
I personally wouldn't use Cat cables for contacts. Aside from the fact that the Cat wires are smaller gauge and somewhat harder to work with, you're just going to end up wrapping the unused wires around the cable or clipping them off. Your can will be cluttered enough as it is without a bunch of excess cable bulk in there.
I went ahead and got the IRLinc Receiver - IR to INSTEON Converter.
http://www.smarthome.com/2411R/IRLinc-Receiver-IR-to-INSTEON-Converter/p.aspx
I will have a media room and I will have harmony ultimate controlling the av equipment. I am hoping this will help me control the lights in the media room
PS: it looks like I don't need this, as the 994i has IR codes that will work without the need for the receiver... I could be wrong though
http://www.smarthome.com/2411R/IRLinc-Receiver-IR-to-INSTEON-Converter/p.aspx
I will have a media room and I will have harmony ultimate controlling the av equipment. I am hoping this will help me control the lights in the media room
PS: it looks like I don't need this, as the 994i has IR codes that will work without the need for the receiver... I could be wrong though
Update: I got the m1k gold kit two days ago. It already has the M1XEP Ethernet interface, so I don't need an additional one (line item 2), So I am returning that.
Now I have everything I need to install the system. I will start the process at the end of this month. I am relying on this boards help for any hiccups that may arise.
I am having the electrician install the motion sensors, sirens, keypads, glass break sensors for me. Just want to confirm the resistors will go near the peripherals and in my case for the motion sensor and glass break sensors. Will the keypads and sirens need one too?.... I will be installing two wire leak sensors too which I know wouldn't need a resistor, but just want to confirm it.
Now I have everything I need to install the system. I will start the process at the end of this month. I am relying on this boards help for any hiccups that may arise.
I am having the electrician install the motion sensors, sirens, keypads, glass break sensors for me. Just want to confirm the resistors will go near the peripherals and in my case for the motion sensor and glass break sensors. Will the keypads and sirens need one too?.... I will be installing two wire leak sensors too which I know wouldn't need a resistor, but just want to confirm it.
The trigger outputs will only support a 924 relay....more than a single 912 you're asking for problems.
@ the OP: The EOLR's would be installed IN the GBD's and PIR's, not near, assuming a single device per zone. The sirens do not need a supervision resistor, nor do the keypads (unless you are running an input to them). Floods can have a resistor installed, no matter if they are NO or NC devices. If you're using a separate "driver" like a Winland waterbug, the EOLR only supervises the connection between the analyzer and the panel, not the probe.
@ the OP: The EOLR's would be installed IN the GBD's and PIR's, not near, assuming a single device per zone. The sirens do not need a supervision resistor, nor do the keypads (unless you are running an input to them). Floods can have a resistor installed, no matter if they are NO or NC devices. If you're using a separate "driver" like a Winland waterbug, the EOLR only supervises the connection between the analyzer and the panel, not the probe.
RAL said:
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