Ppl with electrical experience please help: my X10 HVAC control project/plan

misha680

Member
Hi, I am pretty much a newbie to this sort of thing (I've done some wiring on breadboards way back in the day and am very good with software side of things but home wiring is not something I've done a terribly lot of). Basically my idea was to automate my HVAC with these requirements:

1. I'm a student (PhD), don't want to spend lots of $$$. (Also I currently don't have a soldering iron here so would like to avoid buying one if possible as it is extra $$$).
2. I want both AC and heat control via X10 (controller from my OpenWrt router which will soon have a 1-wire temp sensor as well and I can definitely handle the control logic side of all this).
3. I want either the router in control or the thermostat, not both (switched with X10).
4. I want X10 to never be able to switch AC & heat on at the same time, as this seems like a "bad thing" from what I've read (mainly this is b/c I keep reading about X10 reliability issues coming up so I want this hardwired).

I've investigated my HVAC system, have a basic 4-wire system and if I cross the right cables I get the right functions (cold turning on, heat turning on, well honestly I've actually only tested AC so far and it worked).

Here is what I am planning based on my constraints and my investigations. I don't know anything about the actual feasibility (I apologize for my poor man's diagrams):

Code:
24VAC				  24VAC wire to
					   wall thermostat
   |						|
   |						|
   |						|
   C					   NC
  24V SPDT relay (wall thermostat vs X10 control)
   -		   +									  NO
   |		   |									  |
  I want to switch these							  |
  with a UM506 and I was							  |
  thinking of using 24VAC							 |
  as one of the contacts but						  \--
  now I'm confused drawing								 UM506 (X10 heat/cool vs no
  this diagram, can I just hook					   /--		 X10 heat/cool)
  up the UM506 with wires to the					  |
  -/+ and have the relay work or					  |
  do I need to also power these					   |
  somehow since the UM506 will						|
  just close the contacts and not					 |			   HVAC AC wire		   HVAC Heat wire
  apply any voltage.								  |				|						   |
													  |				|						   |
													  C			   NC						  NO
															   24V Relay (Heat or cool?)
													  -	  +
													  |	  |
													Again I want UM506 in charge
													here but don't know if I need external power

So my questions are:
1. Is there something really big/obvious that will make this not work I am missing?
2. If it seems reasonable, how can I hook up the UM506 to the -/+ (the UM506 will just close contacts when
activated by X10) or do I need some kind of power supply? Can I use 24VAC as the power and if so would it be the
- or + pole and what would I hook the other one to? If not what do I need to use.
3. What 24V relay can I use for this? This ELK 12/24V heavy duty relay looks like a reasonable one to me:
http://www.safemart.com/index.asp?PageActi...WELAID=63026126
but I really don't know much about relays to be sure.

I realize there's a multi-SPDT X10 controllable relay I could use, but it seems like its $120-150 and I seem to
be able to do this whole set-up (3xUM506 modules plus 2 relays) for around $50-60 so it seems like it would fit better
with goal #1.

Thank you so much.

Misha

p.s. also my heat & AC are actually above my bathtub/shower (seems like an interesting place to put that kind of thing...). I could run a power strip to it along the ceiling (on the opposite site of the shower head) and I think it would be okay
but I am still worried about long term use with the shower and a power strip basically running within harm's reach of the water. Another option would be to hook it up through the AC inlet vent, which would mean I would have to cram both the powerstrip-wire and the filter there, and also that inlet is right in the middle of my living room and that would not really be an ideal setup aesthetically. Any good ideas for this sort of thing?
 
Based on the information you provided, I don't fully understand what you are trying to accomplish.

You can certainly use the X10 Universal Module as an interupter switch between your thermostat and your HVAC unit. This would give you setback control by switching Off/ON the heating or cooling. If however you are considering bypassing the thermostat and using the X10 module to directly control the furnace, this should not be done because it is not safe. X10 is not sufficiently reliable to directly control a heating unit. There must be a thermostat.

I use an extremely simple form of X10 thermostat heating setback. I have an X10 controlled nightlight mounted below my thermostat. To setback the thermostat, the computer turns on the nightlight. I have used this approach for years. It is extremely effective, reliable, and simple to install. None of the wires to or from the thermostat need to be changed.

Steve Q
 
Based on the information you provided, I don't fully understand what you are trying to accomplish.

You can certainly use the X10 Universal Module as an interupter switch between your thermostat and your HVAC unit. This would give you setback control by switching Off/ON the heating or cooling. If however you are considering bypassing the thermostat and using the X10 module to directly control the furnace, this should not be done because it is not safe. X10 is not sufficiently reliable to directly control a heating unit. There must be a thermostat.

I use an extremely simple form of X10 thermostat heating setback. I have an X10 controlled nightlight mounted below my thermostat. To setback the thermostat, the computer turns on the nightlight. I have used this approach for years. It is extremely effective, reliable, and simple to install. None of the wires to or from the thermostat need to be changed.

Steve Q

Well other people have actually directly hooked up a furnace to an X10 UM506 module, see, e.g.:
http://www.diy-ha.com/hookingupfurnace.php

What exactly do you mean by unreliable? If you mean the signals do not always actually get sent, which is something I have already though of,
my plan is since I will be coding the "X10 thermostat" myself on the router I plan to make sure the temperature actually does not keep rising at some point
in time after the furnace has been switched off and if not it will loop and keep sending an "OFF" signal again until it senses the temperature has in fact stopped
rising. Again all the unreliability as far as signals not getting through to the receiver can be taken care of through software (trust me when I say on this front I will
be able to accomplish it, as opposed to my hardware experience my programming experience is quite extensive and comprehensive and I am not saying that to brag).
If however, you mean something else by unreliable, please explain it to me. (Of course I admit in case something horrible happens to the router everything could go wrong
but my uptime right now on the router is:
[codebox] 18:57:22 up 57 days, 21:52, load average: 0.00, 0.00, 0.00
[/codebox]
and the only reason it was down 57 days ago was because I took it down, at which point obviously the thermostat would be set to have control first.)
Also, just to clarify this X10 temperature control is meant for when I am at work (if I am gone for a long period of time, as opposed to perhaps some light magic
show there's no need to have heat or cool except perhaps right before I return). If for some reason say the heat does end up being on all day, I will come home, fix the problem,
and just turn it off no?

Now with that out of the way, what I actually want is direct X10 signal to turn on/off the heat and another one to turn on/off the AC. In effect I would be developing an "X10
thermostat" on the router. The only thing I do worry about is no matter how reliable or unreliable, I don't ever want the possibility of having the AC and heat on at the same
time electrically, as of course all software has "bugs" and since this could really destroy (from my understanding) the HVAC system I'd rather not have this.

Thank you.

p.s. btw if anyone has another solution that would allow me to make SPDT relays that is not X10 I would be open to it (e.g., there is a RAIN8NET relay that is Ethernet wired which would
be okay but it seems SPST... will check)
 
I'm sure your programming skills are first rate, and I have no doubt that you can write software that will reliably send signals to the X10 universal module. The problem is that X10 does not always receive the signals. Noise on the power line can always interfere with the signal. For example (this has happened to me) your neighbor could decide to power wash his house. When he turns On the compressor, it creates so much line noise that the universal module stops working and will not turn off or perhaps decides to turn on. If this happens while your furnace is running, it may not shut OFF, no matter how many times you tell it to. OK, you can say this will never happen to you; are you willing to risk your house on it? Although I don't know if you live "up North" but if you do, and your furnace fails to come on while your gone for the weekend, the pipes burst.......... etc. What about recovery from a power failure?

I think it's great that you want to save energy by turning off your furnace when it is not needed. I'm all for it! My furnace, air conditioning, gas fireplace, 6 electric baseboard heaters, 3 ceiling fans, and water heater are all controlled by my X10 home automation system. But they all have their original thermostats and controls as a backup. Once again: it is not safe to control a furnace with an X10 universal module.

Steve Q

PS: The following statement appears in the diy-ha article:

WARNING: Before embarking on a project like this, think about whether you really want your furnace connected to your home automation system. While this method allows the thermostat to function normally when X10 control is not activated, the furnace will run continually when X10 is active, which means it could easily become dangerously hot if the X10 control was mistakenly triggered.

Also, all furnaces are different, so these methods could fail miserably, void your warranty, damage your furnace, violate electrical codes, or hurt you. You undertake this project at your own risk. If you do decide to automate your furnace, you must write some kind of routine in Powerhome that prevents the furnace from running for too long, either relying on timing or environmental data to limit furnace runtime.
 
I'm sure your programming skills are first rate, and I have no doubt that you can write software that will reliably send signals to the X10 universal module. The problem is that X10 does not always receive the signals. Noise on the power line can always interfere with the signal. For example (this has happened to me) your neighbor could decide to power wash his house. When he turns On the compressor, it creates so much line noise that the universal module stops working and will not turn off or perhaps decides to turn on. If this happens while your furnace is running, it may not shut OFF, no matter how many times you tell it to. OK, you can say this will never happen to you; are you willing to risk your house on it? Although I don't know if you live "up North" but if you do, and your furnace fails to come on while your gone for the weekend, the pipes burst.......... etc. What about recovery from a power failure?

I think it's great that you want to save energy by turning off your furnace when it is not needed. I'm all for it! My furnace, air conditioning, gas fireplace, 6 electric baseboard heaters, 3 ceiling fans, and water heater are all controlled by my X10 home automation system. But they all have their original thermostats and controls as a backup. Once again: it is not safe to control a furnace with an X10 universal module.

Steve Q

PS: The following statement appears in the diy-ha article:

WARNING: Before embarking on a project like this, think about whether you really want your furnace connected to your home automation system. While this method allows the thermostat to function normally when X10 control is not activated, the furnace will run continually when X10 is active, which means it could easily become dangerously hot if the X10 control was mistakenly triggered.

Also, all furnaces are different, so these methods could fail miserably, void your warranty, damage your furnace, violate electrical codes, or hurt you. You undertake this project at your own risk. If you do decide to automate your furnace, you must write some kind of routine in Powerhome that prevents the furnace from running for too long, either relying on timing or environmental data to limit furnace runtime.

Ok well I do appreciate your advice and I think it is in fact quite valid. So I guess my problem with any type of setback control, which I would perhaps be willing to accept, is that
since I have a single thermostat for AC and heat I wouldn't really be able to switch between the two with the setback and thus my system would fail miserably (in terms of doing what I want) say on a day when it is cool in the morning and I have my heat on but actually later on it is cool and I would like the AC on right before I come home. Any ideas for this?

Thanks
Misha

p.s. Btw aside from this discussion can anyone recommend an SPDT switch for a UM506 in case I decide to go that route with the understanding that this may not always work very 100% as I would like it to and could potentially have dangerous reprecussions... Also a good (cheap) 24V power supply since I think I am going to need one? Thanks
 
""since I have a single thermostat for AC and heat I wouldn't really be able to switch between the two with the setback and thus my system would fail miserably (in terms of doing what I want) say on a day when it is cool in the morning and I have my heat on but actually later on it is cool and I would like the AC on right before I come home. Any ideas for this? ""

This is why all thermostats have a manual switch to switch between AC and Heat. However, by adding a simple "if summertime" condition, your software would know not to turn on the heat!

There are lots of relays that can be used to switch the AC or Heat ON/OFF. The issue comes back to how to control the relay. HobbyBoards http://www.hobby-boards.com/catalog/ makes a great one-wire 4 channel relay board. This could work in conjunction with a one-wire temperature sensor network. They also have an HVAC controller board. I suggest you investigate these items.

Steve Q
 
""since I have a single thermostat for AC and heat I wouldn't really be able to switch between the two with the setback and thus my system would fail miserably (in terms of doing what I want) say on a day when it is cool in the morning and I have my heat on but actually later on it is cool and I would like the AC on right before I come home. Any ideas for this? ""

This is why all thermostats have a manual switch to switch between AC and Heat. However, by adding a simple "if summertime" condition, your software would know not to turn on the heat!

There are lots of relays that can be used to switch the AC or Heat ON/OFF. The issue comes back to how to control the relay. HobbyBoards http://www.hobby-boards.com/catalog/ makes a great one-wire 4 channel relay board. This could work in conjunction with a one-wire temperature sensor network. They also have an HVAC controller board. I suggest you investigate these items.

Steve Q

Thanks for your suggestions. I actually decided after your concerns and my personal concerns about running a power cord anywhere near the shower to do something a little different - I am actually going to run 5-wire thermostat cable out my thermostat (which comes out in the living room and the bottom screw to screw it in is actually in quite a big space that would fit such a cable, only problem is the face plate...) which is in my living room and to somewhere close to my router. I'll run 24VAC return wire to my router instead of the thermostat, then have the 5th wire actually act as the 24 return coming back from my switch to the thermostat, and I'll just attach the heat, cool, and fan wires to the appropriate screws on my thermostat along with the original wires so that they can be used both by the thermostat and by my switching mechanism. That way the switching mechanism will be easily accessible to me for troubleshooting/modification and also solves the issue of control commands.

I may use 1-Wire as I had already actually ordered DS19S20s from hobby board (along with the USB adapter as its cheaper than serial + serial->USB adapter for router... yes my router does actually have a pinout I could solder to a serial port but its still technically under warranty - well at least as far as hardware is concerned :p - and plus I really don't want to mess it up b/c I already have quite a few things set up on it such as security cam with automatic motion detection, VPN tricks for my work VPN, etc) but the relay board from Hobby Boards is SPST and I still favor a SPDT solution to make sure that heat & cool are never turned on together in hardware. http://www.midondesign.com/1WIO/1WIO.html is a nice 1-Wire solution it seems (4 SPDT's $50 + $8 S&H). Another option would be from controlanything.com USB or even Serial control boards, but I will have to investigate this further (never mind controlanything.com looks expensive; prob go with midon design).

Thanks a lot
Misha
 
Can you explain how you intend to use a router to switch 24V AC? I assume you are talking about a conventional CAT5 network router?

Steve Q
 
Can you explain how you intend to use a router to switch 24V AC? I assume you are talking about a conventional CAT5 network router?

Steve Q

Hi well of course I need to actually have a board or something (like the Midon Design, unfortunately apparently startup state is "indeterminate" on this board, or the relay board from Hobby-Boards. The router is an ASUS WL-500g Premium, highly recommended except the default broadcom wifi chipset doesn't have the best support on Linux (otherwise it has plenty of flash and two USB slots for under $90 or $80).

I run OpenWrt (http://www.openwrt.org) basically linux for routers (or other such devices). It is quite unuser friendly I'd say, and the forums have not always been helpful there. I think for people who aren't Unix-savvy/pretty much programming or at least advanced Makefile & compilation savvy I think X-wrt is recommended, I believe the site is http://www.x-wrt.org. Actually there are a lot of "wrt"'s (DD-WRT I think is another) based on OpenWRT that are "easier to use." But I use OpenWRT although some things have really been a pain to set up (then again once you set it up you never have to worry about it; I use external flash on a USB hub and I have a script that backs it up to my computer so if it ever goes screwy I can just buy another flash card and immediately restore everything I set up; as for the router itself no moving parts so I'm hoping for quite long life here).

There are lots of packages that have different software for OpenWRT (basically open source Linux programs recompiled for the MIPS platform in case of Asus WL-500g Premium - btw others may dispute this but it seems the two most popular routers for OpenWRT are by far the Asus +/- a wifi replacement to an Atheros-type card or the Linksys WL... I am blanking on the name here but that one does not have USB ports so it would not work for me). One is owfs for One-Wire, see www.owfs.org. This gives a "1-Wire" filesystem so you can use standard UNIX shell scripts or any other file manipulation method you want (e.g., a C program) to read/write 1-Wire devices.

Hope this all helps. I am still debating Midas vs Hobby-Boards. Midas startup state is apparently "indeterminate" so this is a little scary if after a power-outage for some reason the router does not come on (it should, but what if the flash goes for instance?) and the AC or heat just ends up running? Not a big deal except what if I'm on vacation... no way to stop it then. Hmm... maybe I'll have to go with the Hobby Boards although I really would like an SPDT at least for heat vs cool. Any recommendations for an SPDT with screw mounts that I could hook up to the Hobby Boards relay board?

Thank you
Misha

p.s. Learned last night that re-wiring my thermostat on Sunday night at 11pm not the best idea. I spent all night without AC/heat (well I didn't quite realize it, I had fan running but no AC). Got it fixed today. Just left that bottom screw out and the thermostat still attaches just as well.
 
Btw, it looks like the cheapest option for SPDT would be a USB->Parallel port and a "Kit 74" Parallel board from Kits 'R Us.

Specifically:

* USB->Parallel $11.07 http://www.shopstormcomputer.com/ssproduct...?pf_id=10725632
* 8 SPDT Parallel relay board $39.95 http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/elec/ck1601.htm

The board is documented here:

http://www.kitsrus.com/pdf/k74.pdf

The relays used are documented here:

http://www.kitsrus.com/pdf/rwh.pdf

This is looking like a good choice to me (since I really would like SPDT relays and the midon design has an indeterminate power-on state whereas it
seems that with this board it should be all-OFF if I am not mistaken with the USB->Parallel configuration). Any comments on this?

Thank you
Misha
 
Misha,

The relay boards you found are very nice. But my applications require the relay to be located near the electrical panel or the appliance I want to control. It would be virtually impossible for me to run a USB or parallel cable from my computer to my furnace. I am using one-wire over CAT5.

The MIDON TEMP08 is an extremely reliable one-wire interface. Mine has been running 24/7 for 3 years. 9 temperature sensors read at 5 minute intervals. Thats 2.8 million results.

Steve Q
 
Misha,

The relay boards you found are very nice. But my applications require the relay to be located near the electrical panel or the appliance I want to control. It would be virtually impossible for me to run a USB or parallel cable from my computer to my furnace. I am using one-wire over CAT5.

The MIDON TEMP08 is an extremely reliable one-wire interface. Mine has been running 24/7 for 3 years. 9 temperature sensors read at 5 minute intervals. Thats 2.8 million results.

Steve Q

It sounds like the 1-Wire is certainly the best solution for you. As for me, I realized that since my thermostat and router are in the same room I can in fact run a cable from one to the other. And since I could either run CAT-5 through the thermostat up to the actual AC or just run an HVAC cable from the thermostat to the router ($16.95 for 50 ft at Home Depot, more than plenty for my solution; yes CAT-5 is much cheaper in bulk though). With the latter option, I could use a much cheaper relay board that is also easier to control (since I have a non-powered USB 1-Wire hub I would not only have to buy a relay card but also if I went with the Midon card a power injector, already more than the parallel card which gives me 8 relays vs 4). But sounds like 1-Wire is definitely a good general purpose solution. Thanks a lot for all your helpful comments.

Misha
 
Just wanted to comment for future thread readers that unfortunately all USB->Parallel adaptors these days are based on the Prolific PL-2305 chipset which
doesn't allow port pins control and won't work with the kit 74 parallel kits. If you find an old SYBA with the Moschip MSC7715 chipset or an old Belkin with the uss720 chipset
you're in luck (if you don't mind coding your own control), but unfortunately I have not had such luck so am prob going to go with the Midon Design 1WIO (kinda stuck with the kit 74 though as the place I bought doesn't accept returns for non-defective, then again I don't realy know its non-defective but I assume; oh well you live you learn).

Misha
 
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