Replacing ceiling light with fan/light combo

[activemind]

I figured out the bracing part and have everything ready to go but I am not sure about the wiring part.
 
There is single switch which used to control the overhead light and there is a 12/2 with ground at the overhead socket.
 
Now I am thinking that if I want independent control of light and the switch (ultimately tied to automation), I would have to replace the 12/2 with a 12/3 . Also replace the switch with a fan/light combo switch.
 
Is that correct or there is some other option?
 
Thanks

 

[az1324]

Yes the wireless controls with canopy modules. But if you want to tie it to automation and there is no canopy module (like Insteon Fanlinc) that supports your standard then you may indeed have to add a third conductor.

 

[JimS]

One option is to get a spare remote and wire relays to the push buttons.  That way you can control things that aren't already supported.  But the most straight forward way is to add a additional wire or use a canopy module that is supported.

 

[wkearney99]

Unless you hard-wire the 12/2 connection to always be live (not switched on the wall) then you're stuck.  Lights wired with just 2 conductors won't support having a module up there unless the wall switch is always turned on. Some of the wireless replacement switches do just this.  They then control the light on the fan using the same wireless connection as the fan motor.   But I know of none that would integrate with an existing automation system, at least not out of the box.  
 
I toyed with the idea of getting an additional remote and using a 'contact closure' module to control it.  Basically hack apart the remote and use the module to simulate button presses.  It would work but the module would have to be within wireless range of the module, which was hard to do in the old house (lead paint, old construction, poor RF penetration).  Instead we discovered that thermostat-controlled wireless units did what we wanted.  The remote has a thermostat in it and that controlled the fan's operation.  Which worked for nearly all times we needed the fan to work.  And when it didn't, or we wanted manual control, the remote was close enough to be useful.  

 

[pete_c]

Here I redid the main floor bathroom combo ceiling fan / light.  It did have wires run going to the dual gang box which had originally two switches for three HV devices.  That said thought the wiring was three pairs of 14/2 in metal conduit.  I did have more issues with the replacement fan/light combo canopy and duct work which goes from the center location of the bathroom venting out to the outside of the house.  (some maybe 30 something feet of ductwork).
 
This "endeavor" though was concurrent with a redo of the bathroom (Lighting, sink, painting et al).
 
I did keep the three pairs of wires in the gang box going to three switches in preparation for automation.  One side being a dual flip paddle and the other side being a single paddle.  It works and looks fine today. 
 
My preference though is to not hide the switches if at all possible (either with modules at the fan or with RF remotes).  That said though the master bedroom ceiling fan has a wireless remote to the fan / light set with speed and dimming adjustments.  The HV cabling though is in the gang box for both light and fan but only one pair of wires is utilized today.
 
Unrelated to the electrical I did have to redo the duct work for two bathrooms in a different part of the house which would trap water and cause issues over time.  Basically was told to utilized double insulated ductwork which worked but was a pita to have to install.

 

[activemind]

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. I bit the bullet and ran a new 12/3 for the fan/light combo and increased the switch from 1 gang to 2 gang and mounted 2 switches, one for each. Wifey pleased with the work
 
I left the old 12/2 in there, just disconnected it at both the places, is that okay? Or I need to pull it out.
 
-AM

 

[wkearney99]

It's best to make sure the ends of an unused cable are capped.  One way to do this would be to twist all of their ends together and put a single wire nut on them, on BOTH ends.  This would immediately throw a breaker should someone try to use the wire in the future, presumably leading to them stopping what they're doing and figuring it out.  Labels work loose and/or fade over time, but marking them as dead would also be a good idea..  Do not just leave them uncapped, on either end.  You don't want someone mistakenly enlivening one end or the other.

 

[activemind]

Agreed! So I capped them off at both the ends. Did not tie them together as you mentioned though! Im also thinking of writing on the cable with a Sharpie. But from the sound of it, it should be okay to leave it in there, as long as its capped off properly!

 

[pete_c]

Here I have switched out many connected 3-4 way switches to linked UPB switches.  That said I have capped the travelers. 

 

[Del91574]

Ponying the conductors should be enough for most electricians to figure out, the big one is to make sure the load side in the field is ponyed so it'll pop the breaker or be read as a short if metered before connection, so (as stated) the person doing the work either looks further or at least, it'll pop the breaker.

Agreed! So I capped them off at both the ends. Did not tie them together as you mentioned though! Im also thinking of writing on the cable with a Sharpie. But from the sound of it, it should be okay to leave it in there, as long as its capped off properly!