I was lucky enough to win one of these guys and here is my review of the MicroFlow 2000 automated Ceiling/Wall mount HVAC registers. Although I do not yet have this bad boy mounted in anywhere, I wanted to post what I found out in figuring out how it was going to work. Also wanted to get enough information out there for you guys to make informed decisions on the product as it may be a bit before I get it installed.
The Unit
The Company
When I entered the contest it was unclear exactly what I won other than I would receive the register. Turns out Martin sent everything I would need to make this little bugger work in conjunction with my Elk M1.
Qty Product
1 MicroFlow 2000 Register
1 RCS Transformer (120V in, 24V 20VA AC out)
2 Elk-912 SPDT 12V DC activated relay (only 1 needed)
As part of the MicroFlow 2000 there were also 2 “interconnect†cables and a signal splitter. I’ll go into more details on these later.
Fortunately Martin emailed me the following documentation before the product arrived as there was none provided with the register. The only docs that came were the typical Elkishly thorough information on the relays. Not a peep on the MicroFlow itself.
Documentation
Be sure and check out the wiring diagram...
Now, here are some pics.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Here it is next to a ceiling register in my house. You’ll notice that it is bigger but it does appear that the mounting holes will line up with mine so if installed as the instructions say (not tightened down tight with a bit of caulk/silicone around the edges) it would work fine.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
The circuit board there looks more complex than it really is. Notice the 2 big contacts at J4? I applied 24V AC there and the motor would spin, ignoring the reed switch.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Here are a couple of shots that kinda show the range of motion you can expect:
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Here you can see it fully open from the back side. So basically the motor turns the wheel, which pushes or pulls the actual vent cover. Also, the wheel spinning will either open or close the reed switch at 180 degree’s of rotation.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Here is the “signal splitter†they provided. Using their cabling and switches would make this very simple install for manual operation. Coming out of their switch would be a phone like cord, plugged into one or more of these splitters. Out of the splitters on to the next unit, repeat. Then they all work in conjunction from the one switch. You could also have the some units open when other were closed based on which plug on the register itself you plugged into. Of course this configuration would require you to move the plug on the register is you want to change the state of just one register. Based on this I believe they have a “master†switch to control the whole house, and then “remote†switches near each register. The “remote†switches allow you to override the “master†for one or more registers.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
A quick OHM test on the “splitter†shows that all pins 1/2 3/4 and 5/6 were electrically the same. IE: pin 1 on jack 1 was shorted to Pin 1 and 2 on all 3 jacks. (Did that make any since?)
Here is how I wired it up. Notice the 12V DC power supply hooked to an appliance module. Switching that module on and off either opened or closed the register
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Having it hooked to J2 (NO) made it so that when the appliance module was on the vent was open and vice versa. Moving the plug to J3 made having the module on close the vent.
Now to the operation. When I first hooked it up I didn’t think it was working it was so quiet. Other than the appliance module and Elk relay click I heard nothing. Then I finally looked at it and the damn thing had opened up LOL! Anyway, if I put my head right next to it a slight clicking can be heard from the transmission, but it is virtually silent. It takes about 15 seconds to transition from open to closed (16 seconds if you count the X10 delay)
The whole thing is made out of plastic. Guess that is why it is a ceiling/wall and not a floor unit. The plastic is plenty heavy duty for this kind of application. There are 3 different mounting hole spacing, you just drill out mounting holes as needed.
One question I do have about this unit is its status with Underwriters Laboratory. Is it UL listed for a heated ventilation system? I’m thinking along the lines of Plenum wire and whatnot. This is far from an area I know anything about, just wanted to throw it out there. Given the short run times (15 seconds) and the only apparent active component being the motor, I seriously doubt there are any issues in this area.
I think this is a great unit and can see real value having them everywhere in the house, letting your automation controller truely manage the tempuratures in different rooms. Along with some of you, I also wait the floor type automated register (my house is about 50/50 on wall/ceiling vs floor mount.)
-Chakara
The Unit
The Company
When I entered the contest it was unclear exactly what I won other than I would receive the register. Turns out Martin sent everything I would need to make this little bugger work in conjunction with my Elk M1.
Qty Product
1 MicroFlow 2000 Register
1 RCS Transformer (120V in, 24V 20VA AC out)
2 Elk-912 SPDT 12V DC activated relay (only 1 needed)
As part of the MicroFlow 2000 there were also 2 “interconnect†cables and a signal splitter. I’ll go into more details on these later.
Fortunately Martin emailed me the following documentation before the product arrived as there was none provided with the register. The only docs that came were the typical Elkishly thorough information on the relays. Not a peep on the MicroFlow itself.
Documentation
Be sure and check out the wiring diagram...
Now, here are some pics.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Here it is next to a ceiling register in my house. You’ll notice that it is bigger but it does appear that the mounting holes will line up with mine so if installed as the instructions say (not tightened down tight with a bit of caulk/silicone around the edges) it would work fine.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
The circuit board there looks more complex than it really is. Notice the 2 big contacts at J4? I applied 24V AC there and the motor would spin, ignoring the reed switch.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Here are a couple of shots that kinda show the range of motion you can expect:
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Here you can see it fully open from the back side. So basically the motor turns the wheel, which pushes or pulls the actual vent cover. Also, the wheel spinning will either open or close the reed switch at 180 degree’s of rotation.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Here is the “signal splitter†they provided. Using their cabling and switches would make this very simple install for manual operation. Coming out of their switch would be a phone like cord, plugged into one or more of these splitters. Out of the splitters on to the next unit, repeat. Then they all work in conjunction from the one switch. You could also have the some units open when other were closed based on which plug on the register itself you plugged into. Of course this configuration would require you to move the plug on the register is you want to change the state of just one register. Based on this I believe they have a “master†switch to control the whole house, and then “remote†switches near each register. The “remote†switches allow you to override the “master†for one or more registers.
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
A quick OHM test on the “splitter†shows that all pins 1/2 3/4 and 5/6 were electrically the same. IE: pin 1 on jack 1 was shorted to Pin 1 and 2 on all 3 jacks. (Did that make any since?)
Here is how I wired it up. Notice the 12V DC power supply hooked to an appliance module. Switching that module on and off either opened or closed the register
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
(Click on Picture for Full Sized Image)
Having it hooked to J2 (NO) made it so that when the appliance module was on the vent was open and vice versa. Moving the plug to J3 made having the module on close the vent.
Now to the operation. When I first hooked it up I didn’t think it was working it was so quiet. Other than the appliance module and Elk relay click I heard nothing. Then I finally looked at it and the damn thing had opened up LOL! Anyway, if I put my head right next to it a slight clicking can be heard from the transmission, but it is virtually silent. It takes about 15 seconds to transition from open to closed (16 seconds if you count the X10 delay)
The whole thing is made out of plastic. Guess that is why it is a ceiling/wall and not a floor unit. The plastic is plenty heavy duty for this kind of application. There are 3 different mounting hole spacing, you just drill out mounting holes as needed.
One question I do have about this unit is its status with Underwriters Laboratory. Is it UL listed for a heated ventilation system? I’m thinking along the lines of Plenum wire and whatnot. This is far from an area I know anything about, just wanted to throw it out there. Given the short run times (15 seconds) and the only apparent active component being the motor, I seriously doubt there are any issues in this area.
I think this is a great unit and can see real value having them everywhere in the house, letting your automation controller truely manage the tempuratures in different rooms. Along with some of you, I also wait the floor type automated register (my house is about 50/50 on wall/ceiling vs floor mount.)
-Chakara
