Setup Z-Wave network with VRC0P

[pete_c]

BTW one issue I had was doing the above with the Leviton RF remote master.  I could not upload the Z-Wave network to the Leviton Z-Wave RF remote (then upload this data to the VRCOP).  I can see the Leviton RF+ fine today in the network.  What only worked for me was uploading the Z-Wave network directly to the VRCOP via the Z-Wave dot me GPIO card in the RPi2.  Using Homeseer I could see all of the Z-Wave data being uploaded to the VRCOP node by node.  (it did take a few minutes to upload).

 

[Pnord]

Got the network working on Homeseer & sent info to VRC0P, just like you said, Thanks
I had to cross the red & green on one end of the rj11, but it's working now !!
The Leviton instructions show one wire (green) always under pin 2.
However, I never would have figured to send smartstick data to the Leviton controller.
 
BTW, as IP switches become available, is z-wave soon obsolete?
(asks the guy with a drawer full of X10 & Insteon switches)
Thanks again,
Paul

 

[pete_c]

Good news Paul!
 
Not sure what the future holds relating to Z-Wave.
 
Here primary wall switch automation is using UPB.  (with X10, Z-Wave and Zigbee stuff).

 

[drvnbysound]

Got the network working on Homeseer & sent info to VRC0P, just like you said, Thanks
I had to cross the red & green on one end of the rj11, but it's working now !!
The Leviton instructions show one wire (green) always under pin 2.
However, I never would have figured to send smartstick data to the Leviton controller.
 
BTW, as IP switches become available, is z-wave soon obsolete?
(asks the guy with a drawer full of X10 & Insteon switches)
Thanks again,
Paul

 
For me, it's not nearly that simple. 
 
I also utilize Zwave for more than just lights; deadbolts are one example. Even if they release IP enabled (WiFi) deadbolts, it would take a LOT of convincing before I'd ever implement them. For example, what protocols would be in place to keep someone else from unlocking your front door via network connection? 

 

[vc1234]

WiFi with WPA2 is arguably more secure and proven in this respect than zwave (where security is an ugly afterthought) , and is probably better than zigbee too.
 
However, for battery operated devices such as locks, WiFi in its present shape is  a no starter for obvious reasons.

 

[pete_c]

Unless they make the batteries micro miniature breeder reactors  or invent a mini flux capacitor.

 

[drvnbysound]

WiFi with WPA2 is arguably more secure and proven in this respect than zwave (where security is an ugly afterthought) , and is probably better than zigbee too.
 
However, for battery operated devices such as locks, WiFi in its present shape is  a no starter for obvious reasons.

 
Are you referring to Zwave with the security class?
 
A novice "hacker" with a laptop can use Kali and have MANY WiFi tools available to him/her for defeating WPA2. I've not specifically looked, but are there pre-written tools for hacking Zwave as there are WiFi encryption? Another layer that Zwave adds is that you'd also need a Zwave radio to gain access, vs an 802.11 chip that's already built in.

 

[Dean Roddey]

And the thing is, hardly anyone is even going to bother hacking your Wifi, which would require being close. They'll try to hack your computer, which gives them access to everything on both your wired and wireless network, and they can do it remotely and to millions of people at once, while sitting on their couch in their underwear.

 

[vc1234]

 
Are you referring to Zwave with the security class?
 
A novice "hacker" with a laptop can use Kali and have MANY WiFi tools available to him/her for defeating WPA2. I've not specifically looked, but are there pre-written tools for hacking Zwave as there are WiFi encryption? Another layer that Zwave adds is that you'd also need a Zwave radio to gain access, vs an 802.11 chip that's already built in.

If the WPA2 key is strong enough, it will take the the attacker between a dozen of years to centuries to brute force the key, Kali intercepting the 4 way handshake and mobilizing AWS cluster for the task notwithstanding. Probably a 10-12 char long random key is unbreakable in the practical sense.

Zwave S1 was vulnerable by a. exposing the network key in plain text during initial inclusion ( unlikely to be intercepted) b. Diffie Hellman man in the middle attack. Some locks were also vulnerable due to an implementation flaw allowing network key overwrite. S2 presumably fixes both a and b which arguably makes it more secure practically speaking than wpa2. Since there are no S2 devices on the marke yet, one does not really know.

It is pretty trivial to intercept zwave packets at a cost between $20 - $70. The $70 dev board can inject zwave packets pretty easily making possible both b. and overwriting the network key in the broken "by design" lock.

 

[ddennerline]

VC1234, your referring to this article (https://suretydiy.com/can-hackers-unlock-my-z-wave-door-lock/).
 
In regards the ZWave Sniffer, this article seems to indicate that lights can be controller because the HomeID can be read in the clear. Once the ID is read, then a valid “on” command can be sent.
http://www.networkworld.com/article/3024217/security/ez-wave-z-wave-hacking-tool-capable-of-breaking-bulbs-and-abusing-z-wave-devices.html
 
Wifi devices would be nice, but whatever “inclusion” process is used, it must be better than TV/AVR/IoT registration processes that I have used in past. It took my 4-5 hours to include my Yamaha MusicCast wireless speaker using Android App.
 
The only downside I see with WiFi is shared frequency. My neighborhoods house spacing is relatively far (2/3ac lots), but I have notice more APs with higher SnR lately. I don’t know if this is because more people are deploying whole house WiFi, or routers are “cheating” on maximum RF power. I have had to change channels lately to keep my throughput up. I wonder what happens if you live in condo.

 

[vc1234]

VC1234, your referring to this article (https://suretydiy.com/can-hackers-unlock-my-z-wave-door-lock/).

 
Actually, to this one:
 
https://sensepost.com/cms/resources/conferences/2013/bh_zwave/Security%20Evaluation%20of%20Z-Wave_WP.pdf
 
on which your reference is based.
 
 

In regards the ZWave Sniffer, this article seems to indicate that lights can be controller because the HomeID can be read in the clear. Once the ID is read, then a valid “on” command can be sent.
http://www.networkworld.com/article/3024217/security/ez-wave-z-wave-hacking-tool-capable-of-breaking-bulbs-and-abusing-z-wave-devices.html

 
Until zwave gen5 (aka "zwave plus"), only locks had supported encryption. With Gen5, other zwave devices started to implement encryption as well ("secure class commands").  Encryption applies only to the payload, the home id as well as source and destination zwave addresses are always transmitted in clear text. So, it's pretty easy to control lights, relays and thermostats by just sending a zwave packet with an appropriate command in clear text. With locks, one has to encrypt the payload and knowing the encryption key ("network key") is needed for that purpose (see the reference above).
 

Wifi devices would be nice, but whatever “inclusion” process is used, it must be better than TV/AVR/IoT registration processes that I have used in past. It took my 4-5 hours to include my Yamaha MusicCast wireless speaker using Android App.
 
The only downside I see with WiFi is shared frequency. My neighborhoods house spacing is relatively far (2/3ac lots), but I have notice more APs with higher SnR lately. I don’t know if this is because more people are deploying whole house WiFi, or routers are “cheating” on maximum RF power. I have had to change channels lately to keep my throughput up. I wonder what happens if you live in condo.

 
The main wifi drawback in the home automation context is power consumption with battery operated devices.  If it were not for that, there would no reason for zwave/zigbee/ble/etc to exist.  Frequency band congestion is a secondary consideration.

 

[pete_c]

Testing mostly Zigbee wireless trinkets here (door sensors, water sensors, PIRs) have been able to only get a year from the 12VDC batteries and personally that is not worth it comparing this stuff to wired sensors connected to my OmniPro 2.  (OR even the wireless sensors I have tested with the two HAI wireless transceivers which work way better). 
 
I am seeing folks now powering up their battery operated wireless trinkets with local power supplies and wires sticking out of the walls which really to me is a joke.
 
Testing has been with current Smarthings hub and historically with the Almond Plus (which worked fine.)
 
I understand it is a PITA to wire up 22/4 and 22/2 cabling.
 
It works 100% of the time and my only cost in the cable and the effort of time to wire it up.

 

[vc1234]

Testing mostly Zigbee wireless trinkets here (door sensors, water sensors, PIRs) have been able to only get a year from the 12VDC batteries and personally that is not worth it comparing this stuff to wired sensors connected to my OmniPro 2.  (OR even the wireless sensors I have tested with the two HAI wireless transceivers which work way better). 

 
My two zwave lock batteries last about a year too(slightly longer, a week or two more).  The GE/Interlogix gadgets (water sensors) have already lasted about 5 years, perhaps more, It is not surprising given the GE frequency and the pretty primitive protocol with much fewer bits to transmit that the power consumption is so low.

 

[pete_c]

Apologies vc1234 I am on a "what a joke it is" to use Zigbee / ZWave for security mind set today. 
 
Yes the wireless trinkets made for commercial alarm systems have always worked (almost...the one's in the 1980's did not have extended life spans).

 

[rumb]

I am guessing you configured the z-wave node number with PCA, saved it and uploaded it to the panel? 

 
Here are pictures.
 

zwavenode8.jpg

I am trying to set up my VRCOP to my OmniPro2. I have searched everything and still have questions.
I have set up zwave network with using ViziaRF installer USB. I have the VRCOP and 2 VRPD3 outlet switches. I have completed that setup and can turn lights on and off using it.
 
Your picture of the  cable between the VRCOP and the Omni.  You show pin 2 red going to pin 3 red.  Isnt it suppose to be pin 2 red to pin 2 red as I have read elsewhere?
TX 1 => 4
RC 2 -> 2
ND 4 => 1
 
I'm at a loss related to nodes/rooms/units. 
 
You picture above shows more columns than I see in PCA - I have RM-15-2  / SW Frnt Dr / [Voices]=blank / Vizia RF Z-Wave.  no other columns.

What else do I need to do to associate the Z-wave to Omni?